Iron Fist

That looks dangerous, I like it!

Wow, ashame to cover up all that great work with a body.

Thanks for the part recommendations, I was not able to find pictures of the tail lights on the Modelhaus or Missing Ling web site; of someone could post a pic that would be great. Using Future as a barrier coat worked out great, I brushed a thin coat of Future directly on the Testors enamel with the repainted hood, and also applied a thin coat of Future on the body over the 3 mist coats of clear lacquer. I will apply a second wet coat of clear tomorrow night. Pics of first wet coat lacquer over future barrier coat.

I think Ozzy jumped the shark on that one, sounds like heavy metal dance music. Couldn't watch it to the end I had to turn it off, and I'm an Ozzy fan.

Look very similar to the Aston Martin of that era.

What do you guys think of using Future as a barrier coat between the enamel and lacquer. I applied it to the body last night, I figure I can always remove it and try an acrylic clear. The hood has been stripped and re-painted. Chassis & Interior are WIP Wheels turned out ok, on the tree they looked pretty bad.

Thanks for the comments guys. I also find the plastic too hard and brittle compared to Revell, but I guess you get what you pay for. The body is also painted with Testors enamel, I'm hoping the 3 clear mist coats will create enough of a barrier to allow a final wet coat. I will try on Sunday or Monday and post my results.

Outstanding work

Bought the Round2 68 GT500 kit, its a dog of a kit. First Round2 kit and probably last, but I'm having fun with it. Molded in lime gold, who molds a kit in color. I bought the original AMT kit in 2005, it was molded in grey and I remember the engine and interior detail being poor (like the Round2 kit)but at least there weren't all the flash issues. Well on with the build. Added a stainless steel mesh grill and painted it with decanted Krylon semi gloss black through my AB, I think the mesh scale looks pretty good. Loosely placed in. Detail Engine, added fan from 68 Hemi Now my problem. Testors lacquer clear coat reacted with the Testors black enamel. I did 3 mist coats (waited between each coat and then a wet coat. The finish was like glass then I checked back on it 20 minutes later and this is what I looked like. I'm not too concerned, as I can strip it and repaint but the question is with what? appreciate some input, thanks. Here's the body with 3 mist coats of clear lacquer, I think I will leave it alone and do a final wet coat on Monday as the base coat is not reacting with the lacquer. Thanks for looking.

Practice, and don't let the blades get too worn out that way the edge angle is still there to guide you, also use a fine stone as you don't need to remove much material to get the sharp edge back.

Thanks for all the comments. Thanks Dimaxion, the exhaust you see on the car came with the kit; its a great kit and the Yenko is my favorite of the first gens. I'm assuming the chambered exhausts were specific to COPO Camaro's, is that correct?

Here's mine. Under Glass Thread http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=43782

Well done, looks fantastic.

This one is OOB except for added: Head Liner Hood Liner Rear Quarter Windows Plug Wires Interior Passenger Dash Bar Window Sticker and Foil The ride height is OOB, a little low for factory but looks cool. Thanks for looking, comments & critiques welcome.

Real

It would look really good with blue valve covers, resemble a crate engine from Ford. See link http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=11985 Oh ya, look awesome.(your build)

Very cool, the weathered paint looks great.

Built earlier this year.

x2 on WD-40

Very nice build. I bought one of these and the body and chassis was badly twisted also so I ended up using it for parts, bought another one and thankfully it was straight.

WOW, I especially like the true flame smoke detail.

I just finished reading the instruction manual on the VSR90, it looks like a decent airbrush and at a good price, also I like that it has interchangable paint cups (something the IWATA ECLIPSE lacks). The only thing I foresee is you will probably need to mix your paints thinner than a syphon airbrush at around 2:1(2 part thinner : 1 part paint) but that is something everybody has to learn and experiment with and eventually the airbrush will be an extension of your hand.

Gravity feeds will allow you to do finer detail like hair width strokes, however the advantage to syphon feeds is the ease of colors changes, run a bit of lacquer thinner through the airbrush and swap in the next color bottle.

I have an all original 26 year old Paasche VL, still works like a charm; the model is still available today with an upgraded trigger valve.

I use a sharpening stone (below blade), this testors blade has completed five builds four of which had BMF and I have two build on the bench; and still cuts like butter.