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Everything posted by Toner283
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How did you melt yours?
Toner283 replied to Lunajammer's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
May have been out of the AMT/Ertl 37 Chevy cabriolet kit. It had a convertible top molded on the clear sprue. (had a custom smoothie hood molded in clear too!) -
'55 Chrysler 300 "Tim Flock" - a barnfind - WIP-Thread
Toner283 replied to Dominik's topic in WIP: NASCAR
This build is cool. Really realistic and educational. Looking forward to updates. Have you started the diorama base yet? -
Welcome to the forum from a fellow Ontarian. The kits from the japanese manufacturers are nice but don't discount some of the stuff from the little three either. The newer offerings from Revell & AMT/Ertl are just as good as the kits from Tamiya as far as parts fit and parts count go. If you read some of the reviews on here and even ask a few questions the folks on here will not steer you wrong as far as what is a good kit and what is a kit to stay away from. For painting in our weather, I have always had good luck with the Tamiya line of spray paints. Warm the cans up a bit so that the paint flows really nice and make sure that it is not really humid when you spray. Other than that follow basic spray paint rules of make sure there's no oil or grease or dust on the surface to be painted and I always use the Tamiya fine primer before I lay down any color. I have always found that the Tamiya paint lays down nice and smooth, flows out nicely and does not seem to have to go on very thick to get a nice covering coat of paint. Check out the tips and tricks section and there is lots of advice on painting.
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Adam, if you can get me some measurements of the tires you need/want I can help you out. I have a pretty extensive parts box to draw from and have a lot of extra tires. The split tires that they used to put in kits pretty much flat out suck and if I can help a brother builder not have to use them I will. I would need the I.D. of the tires, the width at the rim and the preferred O.D. you would want for the front and the rear if they are different. I can either mail them to you or I will be at the RCAC model builders exhibition and contest next Saturday in Breslau just outside of Guelph if you were going and I could give them to you in person.
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I know this isn't a model car kit specifically but I think it falls into this category so I put this review here. Hopefully you folks get some info & enjoyment out of it & the pics. AMT Ertl makes an awesome 1/6 scale Pro Shop small block Chevy engine. It has been out of production for a few years now but still can be found at model meets and regularily comes up on evilbay. It comes with photo etch parts, rubber wires, hoses, belts, springs and many many small detail parts. It is much more detailed than the old visible v8 or any of the die cast 1/6 engine kits available. It includes all of the internal engine parts that an actual small block chevrolet engine has. It is styrene plastic just like a normal model kit so you can paint it and detail it just like a regular kit. If you build it correctly it can also be partially disassembled after being built so that you can display it apart to show the internal working components. It does take a lot of time, care, and patience to build it correctly so that it will operate after the fact, but it is worth it in the end if you have the patience to make it work. It is available in the regular injection molded plastic and AMT Ertl also put it out available with the engine block and cylinder heads and most main components molded in clear plastic as well so that you can see the internal components move without taking it apart. The internals for this version are molded in regular styrene IIRC? The clear plastic version is fairly scarce but it is out there if you search. Parts pics below.
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AMT Ertl makes an awesome 1/6 scale Pro Shop small block Chevy engine. It comes with photo etch parts, rubber wires, hoses, belts, springs and many many small detail parts. It is much more detailed than the old visible v8 or any of the die cast 1/6 engine kits available. It comes with all of the internal engine parts that an actual engine has. It is styrene plastic just like a normal model kit so you can paint it and detail it just like a regular kit. If you build it correctly it can also be partially disassembled after being built so that you can display it apart to show the internal working components. It does take a lot of time, care, and patience to build it correctly so that it will operate after the fact, but it is worth it in the end if you have the patience to make it work. It is also available in a regular injection molded plastic and AMT Ertl also put it out available in clear plastic as well so that you can see the internal components move without taking it apart. The clear plastic version is fairly scarce but it is out there if you search. Parts pics below.
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Toronto Model Car Contest and Flea Market - Pics Uploaded!
Toner283 replied to hct728(Bob)'s topic in Contests and Shows
I'll be there. Just look for a big dude in a black jacket with HITMAN HOTRODS in big red letters on the back. -
what pickup.every which way but loose
Toner283 replied to richcrabman's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
You could also try putting up a wanted post in the wanted section. I have always had good luck tracking down the stuff I need on here. Plus then there are no epay fee's. -
Bug on the board? Any body else having this issue
Toner283 replied to Pete J.'s topic in The Off-Topic Lounge
is anyone still having this issue? I have just started having it happened to me today. -
1957 Chevy kit info needed please.
Toner283 replied to Mack_Mechanic's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
It can build into a nice model with some time and patience but like has already been said, the hinges are fiddly. I remember having issues when I built mine getting the doors to stay shut and getting the trunk to line up properly. But with some work and maybe a set of small rare earth magnets to hold the doors shut, it looks great when finished. BTW, there are also 55 and 56 chevy kits from the same time period that also have opening everything if you have fun building this one and are up for a challenge afterward. -
More Resin bodies here and coming
Toner283 replied to ratnasty's topic in Car Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
About half of the website is blank pages for me as well. -
TRT Widening trailer
Toner283 replied to Hessel's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Big Rigs and Heavy Equipment
I am not a big truck modeler but holy BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH that's cool. looking forward to seeing this progress. Any chance of a pic with something in it so we can judge scale to see just how big this trailer is? -
The Delorean was far from the first car to be made from stainless steel. That 36 Ford is actually the real deal. The body is entirely made of stainless steel. Stamped in 1936 by Allegheny Ludlum Steel in conjunction with Ford Motor Company. They made 6 of them. They also made 2 1960 T-birds and 3 1966 Lincoln Continental convertibles out of stainless as well. Apparently so very few of these cars were made because the dies were destroyed during the stamping process due to the stainless steel being so much harder to stamp than regular steel. Read the details here: http://www.squarebirds.org/stainless_steel_cars.htm Pics of the 1936 Tudor sedan: http://www.squarebirds.org/stainless36ford/index.htm Pics of the 1960 T-bird: http://www.squarebirds.org/stainless60tbird/index.htm Pics of the 1966 Lincoln: http://www.squarebirds.org/stainless66lincoln/index.htm Less well known but also made of stainless by the same company was a 1931 Model a Tudor sedan. No firm details seem to be clear as to exactly how many were made but only one (or parts thereof) has surfaced. Pics and details here: http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/1931stainlesstudor.htm
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I think that's a country song isn't it? "If your gonna be dumb, you better be tough" lol My favorite two are drag racing ones. "you lift, you lose" and "stand on it until you see God, and then shift."
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Drag Week?
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Revell 1957 Ford "Fireball" Roberts
Toner283 replied to Erik Smith's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
First thing that came to my mind too. The chrome from the stock kit was pretty much flash free. That one looks like a sprue from a kit with a lot of wear and reissues under its belt. Odd considering how crisp and pristine the rest of the parts look. -
On the real cars the chassis are nearly identical. The wheelbase is identical. So somewhere along the line something is not scaling out properly when they did the original molds/drawings/measurements. The build looks good so far.
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the original kit did not come with an up top. I hope they tool one up for it but not likely.
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Yeah, I know but it is a small silhouette image. It is a poor replacement for a good clear picture IMO. With the smaller parts in particular it is tough to see just what is what. I like to know and see what I am buying no matter what it is. Most of us have probably had a kit or two over the years where the box art wasn't exactly a true representation of what was actually in the box.
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Round 2 is reissueing the 69 Chevelle Convertible under the AMT banner! Definitely looking forward to getting ahold of one of these. Hope they tool an uptop for it this go around. The original did not have one. If they dont include an uptop, maybe the one in the recently issued Cutlass? Kit can be modified to look good on the Chevelle. Does anyone know if the tooling for the Chevelle hardtop was destroyed to repair/restore the convertible tooling? Hopefully not. I wish that the model company websites would post large clear pictures of the parts trees like they have them displayed at the shows. It would be nice to see exactly what is in the kit beforehand. I think that this would only generate more sales. I for one am not usually willing to bet the $$ that a new kit has the parts I am looking for unless I am fairly certain it does (for a kitbash/parts kit anyway).