scalenut

Monty,it's not a replacement for chrome, no doubt , but it has a beautiful highly polished aluminum (or even stainless steel ) finish,, as shiny as you could get high polished aluminum. from a $3.00 consumer spray can. it's the closest thing I have found to an "almost " there shine ! I like what I'm getting from it , but is there a way to make it less fragile and fingerprint prone, and still retain the finish from the can ? even putting tamiya tape on it screws the shine up it seems like it's one of those great use metallic finishes , that can't be cleared or touched without loosing it. it sprays like butter, very liquid smooth ..if that makes sense !

Thanks Don I'm surprised this wasn't one of your first reviews. back in the day some of the most iconic AB masters/innovators used the VL . Including H.R. Giger.. and one of the... if not "the" originator of the california style of rod painting Robert Williams !

Just sprayed some parts with Duplicolor Chrome . It looks an exact match to testors bottle chrome silver , but in a very nice spray...very nice I must say ! My question is , should I seal it ? my preliminary experiments show it taking fingerprints on very easily. I also tried some spray clears over it and it turned to a grey'd down aluminum... is there a way to clear/protect this stuff and retain the beautiful chrome-like sheen ? the finish seems easily lost thru handling future maybe? whats everyone's experience with it ? so far, it has the best chrome-like spray I've ever found in a consumer spray can

I had the same car , same set up .. those were the days ,, stopping at the gas station to pump up the hi-jackers before cruise nights,,, it had to look like a cat in heat !

photobucket here

good deal , hang onto it ,,, as has been determined,( I searched myself) those parts are darn near impossible to find

being this is a "custom van"... I don't hold high hopes for a stock accurate , full of stock parts,with re-installed proper lights and indicators

hey thanks for the link , I'll be working in smyrna by january,

ahh ok, I'll post it when I can get to it ... I thought you meant , silver,brass,gold,,ect...those were released under the model master acryl "fantasy" lineup for some reason.

I got some nice books , the hemi book from a used book store and the 2 modeling books are back in stock at model roundup. I jumped on the Covert book seeing how much people want for them on the used market !

I've found that aircraft and armor modelers in general are extremely picky about every detail of a kit .. I know that auto modelers are also , but it seems that military modelers take it to the extreme. Every time I have to do decals for a military modeler they want to pick every detail apart to the point of pulling my hair out . I've found auto modelers to be much more forgiving and understandable about how accurate i can get.. military modelers ...forget it ..if it's not perfect down to the last historic detail and shade it's not good enough ! I have shy'd away from military decals for just this reason. I guess this plays into the demand for military kits to be perfect or be bashed for eternity on every forum.car modelers are more prone to take it and make it right.

I can see that , your booth is an encapsulated chamber ! ... I mean the hobby booths you can buy...lol

bob are you referring to the sprays,bottles or both ? I have an extensive chart I can post(or link to) for the bottles sorry it's on my home comp

keep in mind that the primary purpose of a hobby spray booth is to contain the over spray , not to eliminate fumes.. they do help eliminate fumes by design , but that is NOT their "primary purpose".

why did you quote my post ? i'm not sure what the point was... but thanks for contributing, we all want to learn as much as we can. when discussing pressure ,vacuume and all the factors involved.. it can get quite complicated couple that with the fact I'm a 28yr mechanical engineer.. I live for these discussions at work. bottom line tho is I simply want something "safe" that pulls enough air ,that is not overkill ,, don't want to bring my daily work into the discussion. but I will if someone wants to get down to the equations and factors... please, lets not go there. model building is my getaway from work and the calculations I deal with on a daily basis. I will probably get a Pace just for the simplicity of it and they look really nice.

if it's a good side photo no problem

ditto--- why don't all the wheels touch ?

Took the plunge and ordered the dvd,can't wait !

yes , more paint booths please, I'm still undecided between home-made or not

ok thanks Roger , I did try another coat later after curing some and like you said, it slowly pulled right back away. it's a shame because the gloss and color i got after that third pass was killer ! I'm going to do the flat black ,,but need to get more purple power....darn the luck

Roger ,or anyone, where's a place to get the photo etch saw blades ? I have searched around and can't find any outside japan

What would cause the paint to pull away from edges and details? Can I light wet-sand and spray another coat to fix it ? The body was primed , the hood was just light sanded , no primer I used an old can of testors Enamel spray (Midnight Blue Metallic). I warmed the can before spraying and it came out very aggressive, I had a hard time misting it on and stopped after 2 passes. could it be from it going on too heavy ? The can is quite old but I shook and shook the heck out of it. Thanks in advance for any advice /solutions It will probably take a week or so to cure ,,, should I go ahead and purple pond it ?

the decal work is exceptional ~ very nice My favorite from them is 'flash of the blade'

the problem with doing this , and the problem with photoshop,gimp,ect .. is they deal with bitmaps and this is a jpg(bitmap) so the quality is reduced quite a bit anytime you resize an image. if you want to learn to "draw" decals you need inkscape,illustrator or corel, that deals in vector images.

here's the cover reduced to 0.65 ( didn't see a reason to go 9 decimal places ...so it's off half a thou) you will probably want to adjust the contrast so I put a thin black circle around it for reference where to cut. I did it different . found an easier way. I drew a 0.65 circle on a seperate layer and reduced the image untill the cover fit in the circle , than deleted the background.