gasser59

Nice job on them both. Don't make me choose a favorite.

Those came out great Clay. I don't think you need to fret anymore about making headers. Not bad for one night's work. Now back the part you love the best...more sanding. LOL

It does dry clear but if you get the tube extenders, you'll not overshoot. You'll get just the amount you need.

Thanks Chris and Mike. Your comments, along with others, keep pushing me to get back to the bench. Mike - I use Zap-A-Gap for most everything and it holds to aluminum quite well. As you can see on the far side of the water cross-over piece, I pin almost everything. It allows me to test fit things together and gives more surface area for the glue.

I guess we'll need to invent new adjectives to describe your updates because I think everyone of them in the entire English language has been used at least twice. Or I suppose we could use a different language. Spectaculaire, maravilloso, espectacular, meraviglioso, ehrfürchtig, stupore, het fascineren and ispirazione. Thanks for showing the two versions of the 3D printing. I still have a hard time getting my mind around this concept probably because there isn't much to stretch that far.

Thanks for the comments Gene and Scott. Well, here's a pic as promised although i didn't realize until I enlarged the picture that it wasn't seated all of the way. Oh well. Its made from aluminum tubing that i polished and I had a photo etch radiator cap in the parts box. The timing cover will get painted engine color once an adjustable bracket is made for the tensioner pulley. Thanks for following along.

Progress has been slow but detail always takes time. Got a water crossover piece made for the water jackets on the front of the heads along with a filler. Went to take a few pictures this morning and the camera battery was dead. Hopefully will get some posted tonight.

yep, as you said it, you're nuts. But in a good way. Carry on.

Chris - you have to put the Mooneyham logo on the front blower plate. I suggest a photoetch 'M' and a decal of the curved letters as we spoke of earlier. Here's what I'm referring to.

Nice stuff on this thread. Here's a couple of my dio I built many, many years ago.

Thanks Gene. Glad you're aboard. Hope to get a bit more done this weekend.

OK back to the soldering and having to hold stuff while soldering. This has really been bugging me until I thought of a possible solution. How would a tin can of fine sand work to hold your pieces while soldering? It would hold the pieces without burning your fingertips and diffuse the heat from remelting other areas already soldered if these areas were embedded in the sand. I've not soldering anything so intricate but it sure seems like it would work.

Thanks Mike. Post #22 of this thread shows the filter and its location. It looks fairly large to me in that picture. That is what I was basing my comment on regarding it being a bit undersized.

It sure seemed to take alot more time than I expected but the pulleys are all set up. I had to source an appropriate timing belt cover and then modify it. What's left before painting the block is to source an external oil filter which goes on the right side behind the headers. I tried to turn one this morning on my Dremel but I think its too small. Here's a pic of the pulleys and cover. Progress continues.

Hot dang...that is really cool Clay. You are one mighty skilled craftsman. What do you use for a soldering gun/iron?

We miss you modeling too. LOL

Thanks Luis. It's coming along slowly.

Very nice stuff Brian. Glad to see the black T made its way back to you.

No you don't...I build too slow. LOL

That part really caused me to ponder Michael. I knew on the full size axles, the fish mouthed piece was welded on. Obviously that wasn't going to work in scale. Then I realized I could make a thin saw cut in the aluminum axle and insert the flat ended piece into the slot and it would look right and still give me enough surface area to glue. Problem solved. Thanks for the kind words Michael. Chris - I'm not the new sheriff in town but I really appreciate your vote of confidence.

My eyes are able to focus again after a night's sleep. I made the individual leaves from printing plate along with the part that mounts directly to the axle. The ends were bent around a piece of piano wire and then polished with some micro abrasion pads. For the connectors between the spring ends and the mounting pieces were 2 hole photo etch wire looms and I used Scale Hardware bolts for the connections. I only had four of the 2 hole wire looms so I had to be careful not to shoot any of them across the room. Thanks for following along. Again, comments welcome.

Thanks Darryl. Been working on the front leaf spring most of the evening and its finally done. My eyes are shot. I'll post a few pics in the morning. Night fellas.

My...my...Harry. You got skills, my friend. Those are stunning.

Thanks very much Scott. I appreciate you following along on this build. I've been following your Fairmont build too and is that ever nice.

Thanks Ira and Chris. A bit done before going into work this morning. The traverse leaf spring has been started and polished. Just need to assemble. Pics tonight.