av405

Canuck3D made a separate line for the Revell kit, which he just posted on his website. So now there are two competing lines of grills for the kit.

Can this kit be built as a regular/base model S-10?

A Suburban variant would be an absolute dream. If you ask me how many I'd buy, my answer would simply be "yes."

I wonder how these compare to canuck3D's offerings. Both produce great products. If anybody has a comparison, please share.

Thank you all!

It is definitely browner than the real-life Garnet Red, but it looks redder in person. Maybe next time I'll experiment with a white primer base to see if the dull red pops just a bit more. I've found that if the features are too raised or there are uneven features, the decals look unrealistic. But yes, a product like solvaset does help with dash instrument clusters since the details on those tend to be much more subtle. I ended up using the decal for the AC that goes to the right of the steering wheel, but not the piece on the left side or the radio decal. I agree. TS-33 is about as close as I can get. I also found that spraying some semi-gloss clear makes it pop a bit more, especially on areas like the dash which are plastic in real life. I'm always open to new suggestions regarding paint. I thought about replicating the different shades of red depending on the pattern material, but the detail is just too faint and hard to do for the interior tub. At least for my skill level. Thank you! OBS trucks have really grown on me the last few years. And I say that as a Ford guy! I personally think the GMT800s were the last good looking GM trucks. They rapidly went down hill after that. Thank you! The interior is done. I applied flocking to the floor to simulate carpet. I left the side door panels alone as I just found the detail to be too faint or non-existent to paint. Again, something else that I find disappointing about this kit since it is a new tooling. The interior may be too brown for some when compared to Garnet red, but I don't have a better alternative at the moment. The body parts and bumpers are all primed. I started with Tamiya Grey Primer and moved up to Tamiya Pink primer. I no longer use Tamiya primers as I am now an avid fan of the Mr. Hobby/Mr. Surfacer line of primers, but these are still good and I wanted to run through my old supply. I also wanted to see how the Pink primer would help with getting me close to the real truck's bright Victory Red paint. I'll sand the body down with some 3000 grit sponges before applying the paint coats. Speaking of paint, I will be using Tamiya TS-49 Bright Red to replicate GM Victory Red. I tested it out on the hood and liked the look of it: It looks like a close enough match to the real thing: Up next, I'll be working on the grill and headlights.

Thank you, all! I appreciate the compliments.

I forgot to mention in my last post that I used my trusty AK Rubber Black marker to paint the windshield wipers and the surrounding area. These paint pens lay on extremely smooth: Here is the completed build posted in the Under Glass section:

1999 Chevy Tahoe PPV - Los Angeles County Sheriff's Department. The base kit is the AMT 1996 Tahoe snap kit, but parts from 6 different kits were used to complete it. The body was modified extensively, including removal of side trim and running boards and the conversion of the original rear hatch door into barn doors. The front grill/fascia and push bar are 3D-printed pieces. The decals are a combination of various out of production sheets. I am still waiting on an acquaintance to do custom license plates for me, so those will come later. The 2 on the roof in front of the light bar indicates that this is an East Los Angeles Station Sgt.'s vehicle. Here is a link to the WIP thread:

Thank you! No, the Tahoe only ever came with the S10 mirrors. I took the mirrors off of the recently issued AMT 1992 C-1500 Silverado short bed kit. Thank you! Yes it was. I finished the Tahoe last night, but still have to take some photos before it goes in the Under Glass section. In the meantime, here's some final WIP stuff. The kit's decal sheet was in decent shape, but I wanted to experiment a little bit with clear. I sprayed the sheet with Mr. Hobby Mr Super Clear UV Cut Gloss and there were no adverse affects. I felt more comfortable with the clear on just in case some of the decals disintegrated due to age. The LS decals were added to the C-pillars. Looking through reference photos, some of the PPVs had these badges and others did not. I'm assuming this was just a small year-to-year change during the 3-year run of the first generation PPV. Either way, PPVs were LS models, so they are accurate. I also added antennas to the roof and took a small piece of scale black battery cable to replicate the power cable running from the rear arrow stick into the roof. Note the real arrow stick cable: I'll try to post this one Under Glass today and link to that thread here.

I'm still looking at whether I will go for other wheels after this discussion. I'll advise if I change my mind. In the meantime, I did some work on the interior. I'm replicating the Garnet Red interior option, which will be a nice companion to the bright red exterior color. For this color, I went with Tamiya TS-33 Dull Red. The interior tub will get a flocking treatment to simulate carpet. I attempted to paint the door handles/buttons, but the detail is so faint that I'm choosing not to bother. As the paint's name suggests, the dull red is just a dark flat red color. It was a little too flat for the dash: I sprayed the dash components with Tamiya TS-79 semi gloss clear to give it more of the Armor All look that a plastic dash of this era would have: And here is the completed dash: The pinhole on the dash was filled in: For this release, the decal sheet includes decals for most of the dash (radio, instrument cluster, control gauges, etc. I just want to point out a few things: - The decals are too shiny. I suggest giving them a semi-gloss clear for a more realistic appearance. - Trim the outer edges of the decals for better fitment. Especially with the instrument cluster decal. - In my opinion, these decals will not good on an irregular surface. It is hard to get a good look when they are over already molded-in details on the dash. This is why I skipped using the radio decal (which is black instead of a more correct light grey) and a separate piece that goes on the left side of the steering wheel. My dash is a combination of kit-supplied decals and hand painted details.

Thanks. The Jimmy box art officially sold me on it. I'll get at least one, possibly more depending on the exact contents of the kit.

Thank you. This kit has lots of potential, I really do recommend it. Happy modeling! So the BFG Radial T/A's would be correct for my build? My apologies, I'm not all that well-versed on tires.

Thank you for the technical info, very interesting. I think my biggest gripe about the kit wheels is that the sidewalls just look very flat. More so compared to other AMT OBS truck tires.

It makes me a little more disappointed to hear that this is a common issue with these newly-tooled kits.

Thank you! That compliment means a lot to me. You'll have to take it off a 1997 C-3500 promo truck as none of the retail kits ever featured this dash. There is at least one on ebay right now.

Not as far as I can tell, just the yellow film. I left the parts soaking for about 16 hours. By the time I took a toothbrush to the parts to get the last bit of chrome off, everything had pretty much fallen off already.

Since the bumpers will be body color and the grill will be black, I stripped the chrome off of these pieces with an overnight soak of Super Clean degreaser: I removed any imperfections, including mold lines and evidence of sprue attachments, and sanded every piece with 600 grit sanding sponges. I then washed every piece with warm water mixed with Dawn and scrubbed with a clean toothbrush. Today, I primed every piece that will be painted and gave the chassis a few coats of black primer. This picture gives a good idea for the low parts count as only the wheels, windows, and headlight/taillight lenses are missing. I then moved on to the tires and wheels. The kit comes with two wheel options, one of which are the Sport 2WD wheels. They are of a different design to the wheels that AMT previously tooled up for the 454SS truck decades ago. The only real improvement is that the wheel vents are open: But it goes downhill from there. In place of the Chevy bowtie, there is only a linear bar on the center caps. The kit's decal sheet comes with center cap decals, but they will have a rough go at staying in place on top of the bar. I recommend snipping off the bar on the center cap and then putting the center cap decal. Compare these to the older 454SS wheels with the Chevy logo: I used a black paint marker with a fine tip to paint in the lug nuts and the center cap: I'm a little disappointed that AMT went through the effort of making excellent Sport decals, but didn't include Sport-style center caps compared to the regular center cap decals they included. It's not a deal breaker for me, but it would have really completed the decal sheet. Since this is such a fine detail, i simply painted the center of the hubcap red to give it some of that pop that the 1:1 version has: And now the wheels. At this point, much has been said about how terrible they are. Especially compared to the wheels that the original line of AMT Chevy truck kits came with. The size isn't right and they just look so plain and flat. But with the absence of better options (and a desire to build as box stock as possible), I used them. I sanded the tread on every tire with 400 grit sanding sticks and sanded the sidewalls with 1000 grit sanding sponges: Since the wheels have outer ribs, I had a hard time getting them into the tires. I shaved off some of the inner sidewall circumference to get the wheels to pop in. I know that maybe it sounds like I'm dumping on AMT a bit, but I mean it as constructive criticism and information for anybody reading this thread. This kit really is a lot of fun to build and a great slump buster due to its simplicity. A lot can be done to improve some of its shortcomings.

Here's my next project: A 1992 Chevy C-1500 Silverado with the Sport Appearance package. Though the Sport has many visual similarities with the 454 SS performance truck, the Sport was essentially just a regular Silverado model with a sportier shell. This will be a fairly straightforward curbside build, which will be a relief after having spent so much time on the 1996 Tahoe PPV conversion project I'm about to complete. I like to alternate between complicated and simple projects. A little backstory behind my choice: In an effort to keep things as simple as possible, I looked at the recent issue of the AMT 1992 Silverado kit and looked at what I could build with just the box stock options. I simply couldn't pass up the opportunity to use the Sport decal sheets: So why a 1992? I did some research and the Sport package seems to have been offered from 1989-1997, with the Sport exterior decals being changed for 1992. The decal sheet carries both the 1989-1991 Sport decals and the 1992-1997 versions. I like the 1992 version more with the larger canted "Sport" decal on the side of the bed. I opened up the kit and began the initial prepping process, including removing parts from the sprues. Since it's a snap kit, there are minimal parts. I only found two issues with the production of the kit itself. The first one is this pinhole on top of the dash that I'll fix with some putty: The second is the warped hood. Since this will be a curbside build, I'm going to glue the hood shut. But it is a bit annoying that the hood on the AMT C-3500 Dually companion kit that I built last year had the same exact warped hood, even on the same side. Maybe its just my bad luck. Overall, this should make for a straightforward build. Stay tuned.

Google Chrome user here - When I try to drag and drop a photo onto a post, I no longer get the maximum limit message. However, I do get the following: You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

My intent was simply to share what I learned based on my own first hand experience with the product and what I've consistently seen on videos and forums online. Did you do any prep on the surface before spraying the chrome? I always sand all of my parts with 600 grit and then wash them in warm water mixed with Dawn before painting.

Something to remember is that unlike other chrome paint options, Revell doesn't require a black base coat. You can spray it over bare plastic or primer and it'll look just as good. So you're already able to cut out the cost of buying a black base coat when purchasing Revell chrome. It'll still undoubtedly be too expensive for some, but just food for thought.

I'm at 8013 percent. I was going to start a new WIP thread but it's pointless now without the ability to load photos.

Thank you. The barn door conversion was definitely a learning opportunity for me. I'm about 80% satisfied it with, but I'm still happy I gave it a shot.

Thank you! I'm excited to get this one done.