mrm

Very clean work on display here.

I feel your pain. That has happened to me too before. Where something simple and trivial is just fighting me for no apparent reason and preventing me from finishing a project. I am currently having a similar issue with a simple distributor, which has stalled the entire build.

Holly Molly... From what I see, you should have first sanded down the whole bodies smooth as possible and then start building up primer. You could've at least taken all the big sharp spikes out of the original print.

I definitely belong in this club too. I can't stop starting new projects.

OK. I don’t think I have ever built flat black anything. Except those lamb chops some years back, when we got carried away with my buddy over some drinks and almost burned my porch down. They were pretty flat black.

Sleep is overrated. yeah, I want to try a couple of things… Thank you. I need to set up the frame for the IRS and build a very particular set of hoods and then it’s easy from there. No. That quick change rear is just plan B, but I don’t think I’ll be needing it.

This was started when Revell reissued the '32 Ford Tudor Sedan earlier this year. It is my all time favorite '32 Body style and I've built plenty of them in the past. Everyone was talking about the reissue and getting one, so I started the build off thread with every intention of building not one, but two of them. Well, that plan changed quickly, but the thread took off with some truly great builds going on. So I decided to actually try to build one of the originally planned models, altho in a completely different way from what I had in mind at first. I have two weeks to complete it, which considering 4 Mustangs, a Corvette and a Hot Rod pick up truck which have to be completed in the same time frame, is quite the challenge for me. Back when the build off started, I began by chopping a freshly reissued body. I filled in the roof insert and made some reinforcement ribs from half-round styrene rod. It was supposed to be a full-fendered, LS powered sleek Ferrari red street rod, on a modified chassis from the kit. Well, now that I am reviving this project with a super short deadline, none of the original plan is going to be applied. It is not going to be full-fendered, it's not going on the Revell chassis, it's not going to be LS powered and it is definitely not going to be red. Well, maybe the interior, but this is also questionable. Instead it is going to sit on a modified AMT Phantom Vicky Chassis with an independent rear suspension and it is going to be powered by SBF from the Tudor kit, but with some trick induction, which would be mated to the manual transmission from the Phantom Vicky kit. The interior will be the one I started putting together when I chopped the body, which consists of 3D printed front seats, scratch built rear seat and stock door panels which will most likely receive some kind of scratch built hand rests. I have to say that experimenting with some wheels had a lot to do with the motivation to restart this build.

Coming along very nicely Bob.

So, I decided to reenter this. I have about six or seven projects that I am trying to complete for the ACME show, so what's one more? LOL. I love me a good challenge, so I decided to see what I can do in two weeks. I am going to use the body I chopped when this thread started. It will sit on a Phantom Vicky chassis, which will most likely have independent suspension on all four corners. The interior is from back then too. The engine is going to be the SBF from the Tudor kit, but with the manual transmission from the Phantom Vicky kit, topped with some trick cross ram intake with four carbs. The quick change in the picture is plan B to the IRS. This is not going to be "traditional rod" by any means. I want a nasty, aggressive "show-me-what-you've-got" attitude. Evidenced by my choice of wheels.

Ready for a different finish black.

BITCHIN'!!!

I have not commented until now, but I've been following this build. The color is absolutely perfect for this car. It's outside the norm of what Mercs are usually painted and is drop dead gorgeous. The engine work is great too. I love those valve covers and I would like to know where they came from. The interior is complimenting the exterior color perfectly and is very subtle and classy. I love everything about your build.

I managed to sand and buff out the body this morning. It was then washed really good with dishwasher soap and is now drying, so the body can be masked off and the fenders painted semi-gloss black. On the first picture you can see Duplicolor can of what I use to prep surfaces to be painted. It is a nice foam that removes any unwanted contaminants. The MAXTANG script on the back looking good. It is mirror like and there is no transition edge between the stripes and the rest of the paint. That took three coats of 2K clear with sanding in-between. And my tires perfectly printed from rubber. This is how they look straight out of the printer, with no prep whatsoever. That took two failed prints and going to bed at 4am, but well worth it. Now comes lots of masking...

Thank you Stuart. I'm just now trying some new resin for making realistic tires. Dialing the setting in is a nightmare, but we'll see how it goes. There may be few tricks left up my sleeve that may surprise some folk. I guess we'll have to wait and see... Thank you Carl. I am surprised you are saying this about black. I've seen '69/'70/'71 Mustangs on here in every color of the rainbow, but black.

I just want to add any of the modern day Alfa Romeos. The C8, C4 and the Giulia Quadrafoglio. Especially the the GTA.

Where I always start with an engine is the distributor. This is the single most impactful detail that could be added to any engine model. I didn't feel like drilling micro holes in my fingertips, so I decided to use a cheap prewired distributor from Gofer. It comes with some material for the sparkplug boots, but it is overall lacking any detail. Next I drilled the vacuum advance on the original kit part, before I cut it off. And then I drilled the Gofer distributor where the cut off part from the original would go. I used the wire going through the kit's par as an attachment pin and glued it on the aftermarket part, together with a piece of the wire, to create some kind of detail. The new distributor was painted flat black and glued in place and some boots were cut long, for those iconic 429 valve covers, which were painted completely gloss black to match the theme of the car. The valve covers on the real car have breathers. I took round stock styrene and drilled a couple of holes, which will receive the tube for the breathers. Then they were cut as thin pucks right on each side of the holes. This was not supposed to be a very detailed build, but rather a fun "what if" project, but as it often happens it went it's own way. So I thought why not make that dip stick... At this point I was thinking I just had to add the fuel line and the heater hoses. Painted belts with the dip stick. The original air filter assembly has this foam looking seal around it. I scratched my head a little to figure out how to replicate it. I end up using old Detail Master flat black enamel and dabbing it with the side of an old ide brush while it was drying. I'm very happy with the result. As I said, this was not supposed to be very detailed and once the air filter is installed you barely see anything on top of the engine, so I didn't bother with any carb detail. Engine in a day! I am more than happy with it. Now I gotta sand and polish that body. Ugh... Stay tuned...

Thank you Steve. The idea was to have a ery subtle body color and an interior that just "glows" from within it. The stripe was more or less an afterthought, which made the body not so subtle anymore. Not that there is anything subtle about this 'Stang...

I would love see some of the modern exotics made into a very well detailed models. Like Tamiya or Aoshima. I love Revell, but their LaFerrari can not even begin to compare with Tamiya's. Anyway... How about some Koenigseggs? I don't know why nobody has made any. They have so many variations that One basic kit could be marketed as at least 5 different kits with just different aero accessories. Some Bugatti's would also be nice. Veyrons and Chirons. Again, Veyrons could be marketed as many different kits with minimal mods between them. There is a complete lack of modern Ferrari models. Latest models made are the F12 by Fujimi and the LaFerrari FXXK by Tamiya. And those are ten year old models. I would love to see the Monza SP1 and SP2 in model form and also the Daytona SP3. There is SEVEN generations of V8 Ferraris missing and Fujimi is missing the opportunity to make at least two more models based on the F12. Last, but not least, what I think is the elephant in the room is the total lack of models of Audis and Benzes. Especially the lucrative proposition of making a base model that all the tuned up upgrades could be added to in subsequent kit variants. Make an E-class (W212) and then the Wagon and the convertible and then add the AMG versions and then the Brabus versions and you end up with 9 kits that will share 80% of the parts in them. Aoshima did it with the Lambos and they have been a great success. And these are kits that would definitely bring some fresh blood to the hobby.

Thank you Brian. I wanted the interior to look as stock as possible, while not being stock. The gauges for example have the speedometer and rev counter from a Ferrari Enzo and the outer two faces are from a Ford Model A decal sheet. All of them came yellow, but different shade, so I painted them with Tamiya clear orange to make them the same and to colormatch them to the rest of the interior.

I wanted to finish the interior today, so I could move to the engine. First I addressed some of the small details. The pedals came from the other Mustang I'm building - the '71 Boss. The steering wheel received a little chrome trim and a photo etched emblem set in clear resin. The seatbelts are Model Car Garage photo etched parts and seatbelt material. I got an ignition key, a lock and a Mustang keychain from MCG too. And my interior is done! The key in the ignition with a key fob dangling... Quick mockup of the interior in the body Engine's next. Stay tuned.

No. Straight from the can. The only downside of that is a little more waste of paint. And that depends on what you're painting.

I have never used any AK products, but I hear good things about them.

Thank you Greg.

Thank you Brian. Thank you Stuart. The Revell chrome was something that I was contemplating for a while. Two things were stopping me from trying it for quite some time. First off, I was skeptical about the results, as I expected it to be as good as the Mollotow or Alclad product at best. The second was the price and availability. It’s a $30 can which you would have to order online (if it’s available). Add sales tax and shipping and you are at $40 minimum. Until I went to the only not so local hobby shop for something, I don’t remember what and they did not have it. So having budgeted for it and having made the hour trip, I didn’t want to go home empty handed. And that’s when I saw it on their shelf. So I decided to give it a try. What really sold me on it was that it was available and it came in a spray can. I was still skeptical, but now I don’t want to use anything else. The results are better than anything else I have ever tried and it is also easier to use than anything else I’ve tried. No undercoats, no prep, no primer… just point the can and shoot. Me being me, I still prime and spray gloss black underneath, but these wheels here were shot straight from the can right over the printed resin with no prep whatsoever. There is a reason for that, which I will reveal later. It still does not like to be clear coated and it still takes a long time to cure. But it is still the best option out there. At least for me.

Sounds like primer time.