Bill J

I agree Gerry. Jameston is a great young man, I have dealt with him in person on occasion and I can fully vouch for his integrity. I used to get my orders within 5 or 6 days, consistently and I know he has graduated and working full time now at a regular job and things are a little slower. Some wait time is acceptable but at some point it crosses a line. In my case, I had 3 cars going and all three needed paints. I was fully planning to being done with at least two of these cars before I left for my annual Christmas road trip, now it looks like I will be lucky to even have the paint in hand before I leave. So, for me, it was extra frustrating to not receive my order in a reasonable time. Had it not been at this particular time, I would not be upset so my circumstances are a large part of my frustrations. Again, I have total faith in Jameston and his product is second to none. I wish him all the best in getting caught up, dealing with the work load and I hope he gets to a place in his life where he can run smoothly without working himself too hard. A truly nice young man.

That was very awesome! Thank you Greg for posting that link. Don't you wish you had any one of those classic cars? Some really nice rides in that video. As for In and Out, I find it appropriately named. I have 2 within 5 miles of me and never, ever go there.

Good to hear Les. I too placed small order for simple items on the 4th of November and was informed, after complaining, that they shipped on the 21st. Today makes it 30 days and still no package from Scalefinishes. Having made quite a few orders in the past and never taking more than 20 days to receive, I emailed my dissatisfaction today, I am disappointed, to put it mildly.

I'd say for me, it depends on the kit. I like to have a little contrast on chassis parts like A-arms and rear end housings so I usually paint them with Gunmetal Metalizer. I paint most chassis bottoms with semi-gloss black and add the front/rear end parts later. However, on some kits with ill fitting parts or difficult assemblies, I assemble that front end before painting the overall chassis. The Polar Lights NASCAR Talladega and Mercury Cyclone kit comes to mind, since I am building one presently. That kit has so many ill-fitting pieces it really makes sense to assemble as much as possible and then paint. I always assemble engine blocks, front covers and bell housings and paint as a unit. The intake manifolds and heads also, unless they are aluminum then I paint them metalizer aluminum color separately. I mostly use an airbrush to paint everything, although I sometimes use Tamiya rattle cans for bodies, if the color is available. I use a paint brush on very tiny details and some small parts but if I can airbrush them, I do. I don't like the brush mark look and avoid it as much as possible. The downside of pre painting and then assembling is glue does not work well with painted surfaces and getting glue on painted parts where it can be seen is annoyingly permanent.

Mine looks exactly like all the others in this post, if you tossed in a few grenades.

Thank you for the pictures and advance look at the Ventura. Definitely have to have some of the kits. Moebius, you are really doing super work, your kits are excellent!!

My Grandmother's 39? Olds sedan, like this one:

Very nice Ford GT 40. Great paint work too.

Always have good results with Scalefinishes paints and service. There is a wait involved, I just plan on it and order ahead of when I am planning to use it. I wish I had gone to the show in Arizona, I would be well stocked right now! Next year for sure!

Javelin or AMX would be ok, but they have been done and still available for a price. I'd much rather see a late 40's or early 50's Packard. I love the convertible in Back to the Future, a tan 49 or 50 model. I remember them as a kid and they were a great car.

I really like the 56 wagon with Christmas tree, very well thought out and executed.

Absolutely stunning! Very nice Chevy and the paint is a show stopper

Cool Roadrunner! I like the dog dish hubcaps and the correct hemi, non ram air aircleaner. Nicely done!

Sweeet!!

The engine looks awesome. Very nicely done. I bought a new 70 'Cuda with a 440 Six-pack and automatic when I came home from the army. It was blue fire all over and interior was black. Some day I am going to build my kit and make it like my 1:1. Probably won't have the fine detail like yours, but at least I will try to make it nicely:)

Amazing Jonathan! I got 6 bottles of Scalefinishes paint today too! Mine were 4 Hudson colors and 2 engine paints, Last night I ordered 4 more colors for a 57 Chevy, a 57 Ford and for a 55 Chrysler. Maybe there were only 3 colors

So much good advice and information on the RA site and great PPL. So happy that it is back running. Thanks for the update Gary!

I really like the weathered build of this kit, your model looks great. Otherwise, I fail to see the fascination with this kit. The engine looks like one of those over simplified engines from the early 60's Monogram "hot rod" kits and that to me, makes the whole kit look off. The weathered build makes it look so much better. I guess I am just not much of a hot rod guy, other than Norm Grabowski's "Kookie" car and Roth's Outlaw and Tweetie Pie, I never had the eye for the rods. Oh well.

Very impressive work on the Cobra. I'll keep watching and learning

A lot of the popularity of the small block Chevy came from the cost of speed parts for a Chevy. Back in the day when every guy tried to make his car go faster you had to be a Chevy lover. It cost so much more to add speed to the Ford and Mopar engines. Manifolds, cams, headers, ignition, and valve train parts were all much less expensive for a small block Chevy. It was also why the engine was popular on local race tracks and drag strips. Design wise, I think the Boss 302 Ford is an excellent engine but there are not many of them around. The Windsor, I had one that was new in 69 drop a rod cap off while idling in the driveway. The factory had not put on lock nuts.

Looking great. The 59 Mercury convertible was the first automobile model kit I ever bought, in 1959 it was amazing to me

I have a Gunze, with the HRM add on parts and an HRM kit, which is absolutely the finest resin kit there ever has been made. I just need to get over my fear and start building them. Seeing Len's beauty makes me envious, wonderful work Len!

In reference too the Revell Chevy 150, ,they actually made at least one more variant of that kit, or maybe the 150 was a variant of the Bel Air 2 door sedan. There are a few different parts in the Bel Air, the longer fin chrome caps, I think there is no fuel injection for the V8 and the Bel Air has different upholstery patterns on seats and door panels. There is also a back seat, which I always wished was included in the 150/Black Widow kit. While there was the no rear seat option on the "business coupe" 150, it was like a $20 option and most were likely sold with a rear seat as business users were a minority in the big picture. A load of buyers just wanted a new, more reliable car for a lower price and chose the 150 trim package. Funny how things come around, for me, today, the 150 trim is my first pick for what looks good on a 57 Chevy, with the 210 as a second choice. The Bel Air came with more fluff but the extra trim and gold trim items are just plain ugly to me now. In 57 I would have wanted a Bel Air

I hope they have a closeout sale

Tom, here is a sadder Chevy story for you. I once owned a 57 Chevy 210 hardtop that I got from a friend when he bought my Cougar. His wife insisted he give me the Chevy because she was tired of him working on it. It had a rebuilt 283 with a single 4 bbl and had a Borg Warner T10 4 speed with a Hurst shifter. It also had the cast aluminum Corvette valve covers. The paint was a repaint in a bright metallic green, all black vinyl upholstery and the inside window trim had all been chromed. Outside it was stock except the V emblems and Chevrolet scripts had been removed and holes filled. American Racing 5 spoke aluminum wheels. There was one problem, the car leaked oil rapidly all over the bottom and back of the car. The previous owner said it needed a new rear seal in the engine, The old 283's had a "rope" seal that had a Chinese handcuff thing on the end and once you took the pan off and jacked up the engine you could feed the seal through and replace the cap, pan and engine mounts. Did not solve the issue, did it twice. The car ran perfectly, looked good except for all the oil on the trunk and back bumper. I finally got tired of adding oil and a guy at the gas station I frequented offered me $250 for the car, SOLD! The sad part is that the guy took the car to a professional steam cleaner and had the bottom cleaned thoroughly so he could see where the oil came from. Turned out the previous owner had put in SW gauges in the chrome bezel under the dash. They were purely analog and there was a steel oil line that ran from the filter block to the back of the oil gauge. The guy had cross threaded the brass fitting into the filter block where the oil pressure was about 60 psi, that was the source of all the oil. The new owner spent under $2 to repair the fitting and I have regretted that deal for the past 40 years!