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Everything posted by fractalign
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Hey. I started this one back in February and its been an on again off again project, more lately off than on. I had been wanting to build up a 1933 Dodge model for a while but could not source one. I knew that Early Racing Classics made a 1933 Plymouth coupe body but i wanted to build up a full model with accurate fenders, grill and hood. After asking several guys on different forums for measurements i was able to get the measurements i needed from a guy over in WESTERN AUSTRALIA. After sourcing an image of a 1933 Dodge Pickup courtesy of Google, i inserted it into publisher and added the measurements i needed before emailing it over to the guy in Western Australia. Once he emailed the document back to me i was able to begin work. I should add that as well as the pick up pictured here i am also working on a roadster pickup version as well as a coupe and roadster version. Even though this ones on hold at the moment while i finish off more pressing projects, when i do recommence the build i will put up some more photo's as i have some interesting ideas for this one that i would like to share around. STAY TUNED !
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Bring Out Your Dead... Long Stalled Models
fractalign replied to Tom Geiger's topic in WIP: Model Cars
1934 Chevrolet Standard Coupe Utility. Started early 2002, stopped working on it around 2006/7 would like to finish it one day perhaps even this year ! -
I really like this one ! The timber looks fantastic and i have to say its nice to see the Lindberg 34 being built up as a full size truck and not the pick up for a change. I have a soft spot for the AA and BB Ford trucks and i owned a full size one of these years ago. I built something similar to this one back in 1994 as a replica of the full sized one i once owned. I even cut open the passenger front door. Once i get the proper wheels made up i will redo it.
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Not sure if this is any help but i think might find the Monogram 39 Chevy Woodie kit might be able to adapted. They are the same scale as the 37 Fords, the main difference is going to be in the wheel arches and I think the Chevy woody is chopped too. Might be more trouble than its worth........ than again!
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31 Nash: way beyond "Rat Fiink" Coupe: new project 5/9/13
fractalign replied to John Teresi's topic in WIP: Model Cars
This looks very interesting ! Using the Renault kit for the basis of the Nash is a very interesting idea. i have the same kit and i would never have thought of that ! Can't wait to see this one finished. -
Very cool ! Looks like something you would see on the cover of "Old Skool Rodz"
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Send me the measurements and i can do it !
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1/24 BMW i8 kit completely 3d printed
fractalign replied to Lownslow's topic in Car Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
This technology raises some interesting questions. Will the major producers switch over to 3d printing to produce their kits ? If the technology becomes affordable enough for everyone to be able own a 3d printer, will there even be a modelling industry left ? The last and most important question relates to whether the skill level of modellers will drop if they are designing and creating their models using these printers and not the old fashioned way, with tools and their bare hands ? So many questions so few answers ! -
Revell, lets see a kit of this
fractalign replied to martinfan5's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I like the fact that amongst all the modifications the front door trims were left untouched. They must have run out of money ! Still you can't accuse them of cutting up a perfectly good car, i mean its a Mazda for Petes sake ! -
Will do, once i have ironed out the bugs with this one. I am just in the middle of remastering the body at the moment, cleaning up the inside so that the passenger compartment slides in easily. I want to make sure there are no flaws in the body and that the top lines up properly with the windscreen frame before i remould all the components.
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I am working on making the passenger floor and the pick up tray an integral unit. As a one piece unit it will slide in a lot easier. This is just one of a number of roadster and coupe utilities that i am working on so i am engineering the floor and the area to fit into all them.
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The 32 body is a roadster utility. Ford Australia started producing these back in the late 1920's. It comprised the front of a roadster joined to the back of a pickup.
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I forgot to add as far as buying material for casting you do not need to spend a fortune. When you are starting out you only need to buy small volume of silastic and resin. Other things to consider are materials for the casting boxes. Sheet styrene is often used to make up the boxes although any kind of flat rectangular container will work. For the bodies and components i cast, i often use cut down milk cartons. They are cheap and once secured on a stable surface and clamped at the top hold their shape very well. The other thing you will need is a box of latex gloves. You wear the gloves when mixing the resin and stir it with your finger. The advantage of using your hands to mix the resin is that you can scoop it out easier than with a stick, the other advantage is that you can work it into the channels of the mould easier and work it up the mould walls as well.
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Casting resin parts has more to do with the skill of the caster and the quality of the resin used, than the type of equipment used. These model T and 32 parts and were cast by me last year. After 10 years of slosh casting i decided a new approach was needed. I should add these were not two part moulds rather these are open moulds. The bodies are difficult to de mould as they need to be turned inside out to get the casting out, but the results are worth it. As far as using mould release i would recommend against it. It is messy for the caster and the builder. If you want to use anything i would suggest talcum powder but even this is not necessary. A good quality silastic does not need any mould release added between casts. The trick is in preparing the parts you are casting so that they are as smooth as possible. The smoother the master, the smoother the mould and the smoother the de mould process.
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1931 Model A 5 window coupe
fractalign replied to John Pol's topic in Car Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
What scale are you after ? I am planning on doing a couple in 1:25 scale, one a stock height and a chopped version. -
Hey James. Casting may seem daunting at first but given time it does get easier. I have been casting for over 10 years and i have found there are a number of ways to cast bodies. The most obvious is casting with a two part mould but this is also quite costly as far as materials go. The best way to cast a body if you are a first timer is the pour and set method. You cast one side at a time starting with the roof first then moving onto the bonnet and boot area followed by the both sides, this is a very slow way to do it, but the advantage that the body is fully cured at de mould time and far more rigid. As far as materials go i would get in touch with Barnes Products in Sydney and order through them. I would say that if you are only casting the body that a one kilo container of M4503 silastic would be all you need and about the same amount of Easy Cast part A and B Resin. Any way if you need help with this p.m me and i am sure we can work something out. Cheers.....Rob.
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Hey guys. I just thought i should let every one know i will be getting measurements from two guys very shortly, one here on Oz and the other guy in the States, so once i get the measurements i will be able to start work on it. And yes this will be a stock one, but i may consider a chopped version further down the track if anyones interested ! Regards.....Rob.
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Once again thanks for the encouragement guys ! Just an update, i am in contact with a couple of guys at moment , one on The Hamb and another on the Oz Rodder's forum about measurement. Both own pickups, one a 33 and the other a 35 so hopefully i can get measurements from one or both. Once i have finished the pickup i will move onto doing a panel truck and then a coupe all i am waiting on now are the measurements. Cheers.
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Thanks for the positive feedback guys ! I will definetaly be looking to do a coupe once the pick up is finished along with a sedan delivery and panel delivery. I wont have any trouble scratch building up one of these with the only thing stopping me from commencing this project at the moment being a lack measurements. If anyone has access to a 1:1 33/34 Dodge or any 33/34 Chrysler that i can get measurement from i would be most greatful. This morning i did a google image search for 33 Dodge pick images and once i found one i saved it to file and inserted it into publisher so that i could write out the measurements i need over the image. So if any one has access to a full size 33/34 Mopar they can get measurements from i can email you the diagram with the measurements i need. It does not nesessarily have to be a pick up, a coupe, sedan delivery or panel truck would be ideal because i am planning to do these as well and i will build up the firts body style i can get measurements from. Once again thank you for the positive feedback. Cheers.
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I Want to Make Resin Tires
fractalign replied to coopdad's topic in Car Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
The easiest way is vertical casting the tyre. the first thing you need to do is fill the centre where the rim would normally go in. Use styrene about the same thickness as a coin, if the tyre you are casting is a hollow type you will need to fill this cavity too ! Once the centre is filled glue the tyre to a styrene base and box in the sides to hold the silastic. One the silastic has set pull the boxing off, pull the base off and you have your mould. To remove the tyre from the mould make a fine incision either side of where it was glued, be sure to make it parallel to the flow of the tread, not across it, this will insure there is the minimum flash when casting. -
Hey. Just thought i would let every one know that i have begun constructing my 33 Dodge pickup after getting the measurements i needed. So far i have constructed the basic cab and i am working on the hood, grill and fenders. I will be putting it up on the workbench forum as a start to finish project, including casting one up to put on the Under glass forum. Anyway thank you for all the positive feedback and i look forward to posting some construction photo's in the near future ! Cheers.......Rob. Hey. I just thought i would let everyone that i have put photo's of the 33 Dodge project on the "On The Workbench Forum" There are just a couple at the moment, one of the pick up, the other of the coupe/roadster. Progress is slow at the moment due to the fact that i am tied down with some more urgent projects but one i complete these i will recommence the build and post up more photo's as i go. Cheers.
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Hey. I thought would finally put this up. I built this about 9 years ago as an my idea of what i would like to own as a late style sixties street rod. Its a very basic model not my most detailed or best finished build but one of my favourites never the less ! This is loosely based on what was being built in Australia at the time. After looking at lots of pictures of rods from the era, i noticed that there were some common themes on some of the higher end rods of the era, such as metal flake paint, chromed front and rear ends, white upholstery and firewalls and odd wheel tyre combinations. Starting with a resin body, fenders chassis, i sourced the parts from various different kits. The Y block came from the Lindberg 1/25 scale 1934 Ford Pick up,one the best kits ever made in my opinion ! Y blocks were the most popular choice of OHVs at the time in OZ because they were the most affordable. Small block chevs were still to expensive for most rodders at the time ! The chromed front and rear ends were from the Revell 1/25 scale 29 Model A Pick up. The wheel tyre combo was made up from about three different kits. The rears were from the 1/25 scale AMT 56 Victoria which also gave up its quick change rear and front wishbones, lots of good parts from this kit. The front wheels were the American Torque Thrusts from the ever reliable Revell 1/25 scale 32 3 window kit, with the tyres coming from the Revell 1/25 scale 31 Model Tudor. The grill is from an AMT 1/25 32 kit, not sure which one ! the headlight were made up from the 36 Ford buckets with Revell 1/25 scale 26 Model T Lenses ! I finished it off with Dupli Colour Automotive gold metal flake and clear clear.
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Hey. I thought would finally put this up. I built this about 9 years ago as an my idea of what i would like to own as a late style sixties street rod. Its a very basic model not my most detailed or best finished build but one of my favourites never the less ! This is loosely based on what was being built in Australia at the time. After looking at lots of pictures of rods from the era, i noticed that there were some common themes on some of the higher end rods of the era, such as metal flake paint, chromed front and rear ends, white upholstery and firewalls and odd wheel tyre combinations. Starting with a resin body, fenders chassis, i sourced the parts from various different kits. The Y block came from the Lindberg 1/25 scale 1934 Ford Pick up,one the best kits ever made in my opinion ! Y blocks were the most popular choice of OHVs at the time in OZ because they were the most affordable. Small block chevs were still to expensive for most rodders at the time ! The chromed front and rear ends were from the Revell 1/25 scale 29 Model A Pick up. The wheel tyre combo was made up from about three different kits. The rears were from the 1/25 scale AMT 56 Victoria which also gave up its quick change rear and front wishbones, lots of good parts from this kit. The front wheels were the American Torque Thrusts from the ever reliable Revell 1/25 scale 32 3 window kit, with the tyres coming from the Revell 1/25 scale 31 Model Tudor. The grill is from an AMT 1/25 32 kit, not sure which one ! the headlight were made up from the 36 Ford buckets with Revell 1/25 scale 26 Model T Lenses ! I finished it off with Dupli Colour Automotive gold metal flake and clear clear.