Harry P.

Not exactly my cup of tea as far as subject matter goes... But man, that's a cool model! Very nice work all around, About the only comment I have is to suggest a black wash on the wheels to bring out the detail.

I don't understand the problems you guys are having posting photos interspersed with text. It works for me just like it always did... type the text, hit return and paste the image info, hit return and type more text, hit return and post next photo's image info, etc., etc. It's not working that way for you guys?

"Love can make you weep, can make you run for cover"...

"She is the sunlight when skies are gray... She treats me so right, lady, take me away"...

Yeah, me, too!

Guys... just a suggestion... If any of you have a comment regarding the accuracy of the kit, be prepared to back it up with actual facts, not opinion. All of us will be better served if we deal in facts rather than opinions, when we're talking about kit accuracy. Not calling out anyone specifically, just a friendly suggestion meant to make this thread as helpful as possible to everyone who reads it.

In your defense, I think outside rear-view mirrors may still have been optional in 1957...

People with Barbie dolls?

World's coolest pedal car?

No, the hinges came. But as is typical for me, a shiny new object (Pocher Bugatti) has stolen my attention. But I fully intend to finish the woody. I'm way too far into it to abandon it now. What I'll be doing in the coming weeks is jumping between the woody and the Bugatti, and posting updates on each as they happen. In fact, I have the first woody door well underway, but then the Bugatti arrived, and well, you know... But new woody updates coming soon.

How did we ever cope with non-swinging mirrors back in the day?

The exact same is true in a RHD situation, only reversed.

Ok, I'm going to throw a little cold water on all the "nice build" comments. It is a nice build, as per your usual, Tulio. We all know you have the skills. But leaving those tacky-looking mold seam lines on the sides of the front and rear bumpers is inexcusable and something a guy with your talent and expertise should have caught and corrected.

55%. I got a lot of Ford vs. Mercury and Dodge vs. Plymouth wrong.

I've been working on adding missing oil lines, missing fuel lines, missing linkages, etc. It's slow and tedious, scratchbuilding all those tiny details, but the right side of the engine is getting there. See what I mean about those cool BUGATTI name plaques disappearing once the engine gets closer to finished?

Jake... don't think that way. All of us have different skill levels. Some of the guys who post here are extremely talented modelers, some a bit less. But don't ever think that your work isn't "good enough" to post. Two important things to remember: First, the more you build, the better you get. Doesn't matter where you are at, skill-wise, the more you build the better you'll get. And second (and more important)... we are all members of the brotherhood. Every single one of us, from raw beginner to contest-quality builder.

A few of 'em? Wanna sell one?

The forward mounted outside rear view mirrors is a dead giveaway that the car is Japanese. Only the Japanese, as far as I know, mounted the mirrors way up front like that. Aside from the goofy mirrors, it's not a bad looking car at all. It looks vaguely "AMC-ish" to me... Ambassador, maybe.

I agree that $25 OBO is reasonable. What I don't understand is the guy who wants $129 for the same kit! I mean, I know that you can list something on ebay for whatever price you want to list it at... and maybe some fool will actually pay that outrageous price. But geez... $25 or $129? I think I know which one I'd buy!

This is one kit I've never built but always wanted to... so I just checked ebay, and man, the prices for this kit are all over the place! There's a Revell version for $25 OBO, and a Monogram boxing for $129 BIN! Wow... what a price spread!

That car looks good in red. And black. Nice job! The model really sparkles in the outdoor shots.

The distributor cap hold downs were added per reference photos. They are made of soft silver wire and four Pocher small screws...

Here is the loom in place. The mounting straps are thin aluminum cut from a pie pan. Pocher supplies nice molded spark plug boots, they look good as is, no changes necessary. All I did was cut off a short length of ignition wire at the boot end and attach them in place between the plugs and the loom. The last plug wire will run directly from the distributor to the spark plug, it won't need to go through the loom. I'll attach the cut-off parts of the ignition wires to the distributor and run them into the back end of the loom, so it'll look as if the wires are really running from the distributor through the loom and to the plugs... but it would have been impossible to feed seven ignition wires through the holes in the loom and out the back end. My way of doing it will look like that's what happening, only my way is much easier! BTW, those four holes in the valley cover are where the water pipe will attach.

No, this isn't the beginnings of a scale model flute... Many cars of this era had wiring looms to keep things neat and tidy under the hood. A loom is easy to make... just a length of aluminum tube with holes for the plug wires spaced evenly...

I added scratchbuilt spark plugs made of aluminum tube and nuts from the kit. Pocher gives you extra hardware, so robbing the bag of nuts to use on the spark plugs won't be a problem down the road... I won't run out of nuts! And speaking of nuts and bolts... the front cover is supposed to be attached using only four screws, but in reality this piece is held in place with 12 bolts... so I sliced 12 "bolt heads" from hex-shaped styrene rod and glued them to the front cover (after gluing the cover in place)...