Harry P.

Well, in my case, it doesn't!

I have no idea! I built my first model over 40 years ago and have built hundreds since. No way I could possibly remember which one was the first ever.

Your computer isn't the determining factor, your internet connection is. Doesn't matter what computer you have, it's your internet connection that determines how fast (or how slow) a website loads.

Is that a recycling logo on the plastic??? If so, there's a dead giveaway as to the authenticity of this "original" kit.

Sounds like Bob will have to go shopping for bigger hats...

That's right. The "reply" button at the bottom of the last post actually works as a "quote" button. To reply without quoting the last post you need to go all the way to the bottom and use the "Add Reply" button.

So we have a request here from a member to the rest of us to please stop quoting pictures... and we're quoting pictures in this very same thread???

Hey, if you didn't say anything about why the helmet was there, we would have never known... Nice job, it looks really cool.

I can answer your first question. When someone talks about "resin" in regards to model cars, they're talking about either parts, bodies or entire kits that are manufactured by pouring a liquid resin into hollow molds in order to cast the parts. It's the same principle as metal casting, but done without heat, as the resin is in liquid form at room temperature. Once it sets up, the parts are removed from the molds (which are usually made of rubber). Resin casting is used by most aftermarket manufacturers, basically because it's much cheaper to have a master made, and a rubber mold made from that master, and then casting resin parts using that mold, than it is to invest in the metal dies and injection-molding machinery needed to produce parts by the injection molding process (the way mass-market model kits are manufactured). Aftermarket resin casters tend to "fill in the gaps" with oddball parts or kits that the major manufacturers don't produce. They can do this because the upfront costs to create a new master and the molds needed to cast the parts in resin are so much lower than tooling up for a new kit to be produced by the injection-molding process. Since the upfront costs are so much lower, they can make a profit selling far fewer kits than a mass-market model kit manufacturer would have to sell in order to recover the startup costs of a new kit; therefore aftermarket guys can offer "oddball" kits that won't necessarily sell as many units as a mass-market manufacturer would need to sell in order to recover their costs. That's why the aftermarket guys can offer kits of subjects that the big model companies can't (or won't). Cast resin parts are a bit different than typical injection-molded styrene parts. First, the resin is somewhat more brittle than styrene, and resin parts can snap and break fairly easily, so you have to be careful. Second, regular "model glue" (styrene cement) will not work on resin... you need to use either superglue or epoxy. But generally, other than those two specific differences, resin parts can be cut, sanded, painted, etc. pretty much like any "normal" styrene parts. The Modelhaus is one of many aftermarket companies that specialize in cast resin parts and kits. Check out their site (modelhaus.com) and you'll see what I mean by aftermarket companies offering kits that the "big guys" don't.

Thanks for the tips, guys. I'll try and see if I can get some better results.

Hey Bill, if you see this, I have a question for you. I've never soldered anything since high school electric shop class. Recently I was trying to solder some electrical connections for the lighting circuit of my Pocher Mercedes (you remember that one!). Anyhoo... no matter how long I held the tip of the soldering iron to the wires, the solder wouldn't flow, it would just form little balls and fall off the connection. Was the problem not enough heat? Wrong type of solder? Help!!!

What, they don't have night in Italy???

Because I like to give you a hard time!

I agree, there's no need to "seal" BMF. I have never, EVER had BMF lift or tarnish, even after many years on a model. It just doesn't happen.

I know. But there are no masts on a model car...

LOL... literally!

Bee-yoo-tiful!

Bob, your clone looks fantastic!

Easiest way is to dab on a little silver paint.

Ok, I'm going to have to get tougher with you guys, this was too easy! Final vote: 60 REAL, 11 MODEL. It's REAL! Next (and hopefully harder) ROM coming MONDAY!

Is this place related to the Clown Car Hall of Fame?

Wouldn't it be easier to just use superglue?

Who would have thought back in 1969 that 40 years later Buzz Aldrin would be on a TV show called "Dancing With the Stars!!!"

Outstanding work.