mecklm

I'm really liking the finish on the wheels! What color(s) did you use?

Mark, beautiful parts. I'm really curious about the acid treatment for the aluminum parts. Is it something really weak like vinegar or is there a specific, stronger acid that transforms the colors and surface texture? Any safety concerns with fumes, aside from the common sense skin/eye protection? Thanks for any feedback you can offer.

You have a great knack for absolutely nailing the ride height and overall stance of your projects. Even in mock up form your builds exude realism. Can't wait to see this one in paint!

Interesting info. . . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v411/mecklm/k17_zps49iaxqtm.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v411/mecklm/k18_zps5flagvdd.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v411/mecklm/64_Ford-Falcon-num17_DV-14-MH-02.jpg.cf_zpsysgygibb.jpg This is about the only rear view I could find but it shows the stock tank and filler nicely. I'm going to have to stay with my original comment that the earlier photo shows a fuel cell. Minor technicality, overall, since your cars always turn out looking like the real deal. Either way will look awesome.

Orange = fuel cell?

Way to go! This came out so nicely. Great idea for a model, really well executed and in such a short amount of time! Very impressive model!

Wow, that looks very nicely put together! Glad to hear you're keeping the original body paint as it really suits the car and era. Regarding the black ink in the panel lines, could you perhaps mix up a lighter shade of black (if that makes any sense at all) and flow really thinned amounts into each panel line? Repeat as many times as needed to lighten the original effect. I suppose you could go the opposite direction and flow in the same Ivory paint as the body. Since it would need to be thinned down so much each application would gradually lighten the panel lines. Hope you take lots of pics as you make progress on this restoration as it's already so good it will be fun to watch it get even better.

Not sure how accurate you're trying to be but I'm pretty sure the stripes at the rear should end at the bottom edge of the rear face of the spoiler and should not extend onto the thin exposure of the deck lid. Either way, paint color is beautiful!

Wow, I frequent this section regularly but somehow missed this one completely. Love the work you've done and I especially get a kick when standard kits are manipulated for the better with custom parts, be it scratch built by hand or by 3d printer. Nice work on the seats and wheels. What material did you machine the wheels from? Also, did you machine one and mold/cast the rest? Thanks for sharing! Mike

Nice build so far. Is the oil pan a separate part? Doesn't appear to be split down the middle as if molded as part of the block. BTW, your left rear tire's tread is backwards compared to the other three ;-)

Hope I'm not speaking out of turn here, but what appears to be a forward facing pipe is actually the electric cutout motor. Hit the switch, motor opens butterfly and you have instant, unmuffled side exhaust.

Hi John, excellent work so far, as usual. I do have a question about the intake though. When I look at how the ends of the intake compare with the inner exhaust port I am having a hard time figuring out how the end cylinders connect with the intake. What am I missing? Thanks, Mike

I'm wondering if it is possible to create a dedicated forum category for our Harry? There was so much to learn from each of his builds that I think this would be a great resource for all members, not to mention, a fitting tribute to his legacy. Not knowing the intricacies of a website build, I don't really know how easy or difficult this would be. If it's not feasible, perhaps the next best thing would be a pinned post where all of his builds and "under glass" posts could be compiled and linked. I'd love to see something like this happen for such an influential member of our community. Thanks for your consideration, Mike Meckl.

Wow, you really have a knack for details and finishes that give a realistic feel to your Cobras. Even your progress photos can easily be confused with the real thing sitting in some fab shop. I hope there's a lot more Cobra variations out there because it is fun and inspiring to watch your builds.

Love the hydraulic lines on the crane. They look really small diameter. Do you mind mentioning what you used for them?

Awesome car with stellar execution! Lol on the plates by the way...

First reaction is to go with the black washed grille but I don't think your photos do the etched grille justice, no offense intended. Reason being, the black wash is designed to give the impression of a see-through part, with the black representing the darkness behind it. The etched grille, however, is truly open so it's letting all the light from the background pass through. If you want to be fair, place the etched grille on a black background and then do a side by side comparison. I bet the etched one ends up looking much sharper that way.

Yeah, I look at the platinum price every time I upload a file, just for a good laugh. My personal high would have been $73500. I can't imagine anyone taking a chance on a 3d print in platinum. Mike

Paul, this is one of my favorite builds, in particular your use of Solidworks and Shapeways. I use both myself and have been working on printed parts for my 1:1 for the last six months. You mentioned doing metal parts for some of the items you need and I just wanted to share my experience, in case it might help you out. I've had three parts made with the "stainless steel" group of materials and the success has varied greatly depending on the part geometry. These materials are printed directly to metal and they weren't kidding when they cautioned about 5% or more variation in dimensions. For what I needed it turned out okay but only by drilling out screw holes and spending some time at the lathe getting larger holes bored round. The material is super hard so cobalt is the only way to go to machine it. Don't even think of tapping it. The precious metals range of materials prints in wax and uses the lost-wax casting process to go to metal. Accuracy and staying true to size are hugely better and using raw brass let's you do finish machining with conventional tools. Downside is the raw brass is triple the cost of the steel. Anyway, carry on with this awesome build and hit me up if you ever run into any snags with Solidworks. I'm always willing to help a brother out. Mike

You didn't even have to answer - we all knew what the answer was going to be. We wouldn't expect anything less on this build which is simply spectacular. Thanks for sharing!

Stellar work, especially the wood grain on the trunk. I noticed the top/back is bookmatched - did you do the same for the sides too (left is mirror image of right)?

All I can say is this belongs in a museum. How gorgeous...

Not really sure if it applies, not having researched it, but I do know for certain international events the car color was dictated by the country. US was white, Italy was red, England was green, etc. Again, not sure it would apply to this car but might be fun to research it deeper. Carry on... Mike

Espo, the movie was "White Lightning" with Gator played by Burt Reynolds. The car was a 1971 Galaxie 500 in brown with black steel wheels. This car is remarkably close considering it wasn't necessarily meant to replicate it. Outstanding job - I just love sleepers like this!