Gluhead

Thanks, Bill. I'm not sure if one method is better than the other when it gets right down to it. One may be better for some than others...just depends on what one is more comfortable with. You're absolutely right about these grills being very fragile...whichever method is used! Especially at the top corners of the lower grill...things get kinda hairy there. I did have one break on me in that area at the last minute (while I was working the opposite side...go figure. lol), but it was an easy repair.

Thanks, guys...I threw some paint at it this morning. One weather-induced goober but I'll just let it slide with a touch-up. Now to wait a bit so I can mask off for the top. Pics soon.

Ha! Quite an introduction. Looks like you had a lot of fun making it, too. Welcome aboard.

Just going by the few I've done, I don't think it's too much of an issue...but that may just be the particular body shapes around the handles that I've had to deal with. I can see where if there were an overhang above it, like on a '62 Buick, it could become something that you have to watch more closely to make sure. Most are open enough on the top that there's enough room for paint to fog in. Good question...I hope that helps.

Okay, I'm a nerd. So shoot me. It's not every day I do a car that shares it's name with an element. Quickie build to help me through a spot of perpetual brick walls on all my other projects. If it's not the weather being not very conducive to painting, it's a part. If it's not a part or paint it's my body being uncooperative. Sometimes, something has to give...thus...quickie! lol The victim over the last few days has been this unremarkable yet not unseemly AMT 1966 Mercury Parklane. Aside from two NASTY sinkers on the drivers side lower quarters, it's really not too bad as far as the body goes. Mine also had goobered up quarter window trim, but that was much more my own fault than the kits. Otherwise, it's a typical '60's annual style kit, with all that comes along with that. Metal-axle-through-the-engine, archaic door panel engraving, big-blobs chassis plate...you know the deal. But its overall proportions are fairly well done and I think it'll make for a good shelf model...and most importantly...I think I can crank it out within a week, give or take a day or so. In addition to the basic cleanup (and fixing the previously mentioned huge sledgehammer dents on the lower quarters), I've scribed in some of the missing panel lines on the front clip. I elected to skip the front fender cap lines because they're so close to the molded-in marker lights, and I just didn't feel like fixing that if I screwed it up. I'm also going with a vinyl top, just because I like the way they look on this car. Anyway, I've babbled enough. Here's some pics.

That came out pretty cool, Walt!

Thanks, Tom...those Owencraft handles are pretty nice. I'm cheap, though! lol. I can see where a dash of black would be enough on some, as well. Just depends on the model, I s'pose. One thing I do like about this over aftermarket handles, though, is that they don't need to be attached after paint. No fiddly gaps to make go away, no pinning to mess with or anything since they're on there like white on rice already.

Nice one. I opened mine up, too. I did mine a little differently, though. I ground away at the backside until I was nearly to the bars (when I could see the backing material was paper thin by holding it up to a light), and finished up by sanding until the remainder fell out on its own. I do need to go back and re-do the alclad...I was going for a toned-down-chrome look and skipped the black base. Turned out a little toooooo toned down. I'm going to make the bar under the Chevrolet body color while I'm at it. More in my fokti (link in sig) if anyone wants to check out the in-progress (so's not to hijack).

Thanks, everyone. I'm glad you guys find it useful. It's certainly not an original thought, but I didn't see any toots up for it, so I figured I'd try to spread the word. I remember years ago when I first tried it, the next month there it was in a cheap tricks article in one of the mags...thought that was kinda funny. But I hardly ever see people do it for whatever reason. I'm with you, Mike...I wonder why that is at times, because it's not nearly as difficult as some of the other things we do. Oh, and yep...I have a couple that have shaved handles now only because I slipped and sent half of it into the netherlands. I actually did that on the Scout, but took the time to fix it. Scouts need handles! Roger - Yes, I'm doing one up quickie style while I wait on good weather and parts for other stuff. In spite of doing a couple extras to it, it's a shelf model so I'm going to take my chances on the paint. Hopefully the cold doesn't screw it up too much but if it does I'll just weather it up a bit or set it good side out. Thanks!

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=71261

That's sweet. The 'Rage sign made me grin, too.

Nice MV. There's just something about those old cafe's. Tough to get much cooler on 2 wheels.

Banger Deuce! Now there's something you don't see every day. Rad.

Great character in this one. Nice job.

It's got some 'tude. I dig it.

Never really gave this car much of a glance, but that looks pretty good to me. Keep it up!

Fine build, Maik.

Thanks, guys. Yeah, give it a shot and post it up. Nick, I usually do use tape to protect nearby areas. But in this case, the work is being done so close to the cuff and the tips of the tools so tiny, the tape tends to block my view or the tool slips under it. So in this instance, I skip it.

Pretty cool. Backlit gauges, anyone?

How many times have you looked over your latest kit and thought "I really wish they had molded the door handles separately"? Yeah, those molded-on handles look pretty cruddy...but they don't have to! They can actually look better than the separate, chrome-plated handles, if you have a steady hand and a bucket or two of patience. A drill bit, new #11 blade, and a little sandpaper help, too. The main things to remember during this operation are to keep your tools at an angle that will help you avoid nicking into the door, and use as little pressure on your tools as needed to prevent flicking half the handle across the bench. Little screwups can be fixed easily enough, but cutting the handle off is a bit tougher repair that you definitely want to avoid. Step 1 - Drill. Note the angle of the bit. You want to keep the tip from poking into the door skin on the underside of the handle. Keep a close eye on your progress, so you can stop drilling as soon as you get through the bottom. You want to drill your starter holes close to the body panel, but not right up to it. The starter holes make it easier to open the area with the blade, and you can shave right up to the panel at that time. Step 2 - Score. Take the #11 blade and very carefully pull the tip along the starter holes to hog out the material between them. Please note - the angle of the knife is bad in this image. I couldn't hold it at the right angle and take the pic at the same time. Keep working it, slowly, until you've got the area completely opened up. You're mostly concerned with how the handle looks on the top side, so do your best to get the opening accurately shaped here. The bottom is much less visible, so you can leave a bit more material down there for strength, but you still want it to be cleanly trimmed out however much extra you leave. Keep in mind, though, that one of the things that sells the look of the handle being opened up is the shadow on the door below it, so you don't want to leave too much material on the lower half. Step 3 - Clean it up. Here's where that steady hand and a lot of patience comes into play. Slow and steady. One of my favorite improvised tools is to take one of those one-sided Dremel sanding discs and cut it in half or a strip. The backing on them is hard enough that you get a nice, stiff sanding stick that's still really, really thin. If you don't have any of these laying around, you can also use regular sandpaper. Coat the backside with CA and trim off a piece that suits the need. Floppy sandpaper doesn't work out so well for things like this. Final Step - Foil. I like to use two pieces of foil on these handles. I foil the bottom half first, so that I can overlap the top onto it just a little. That keeps the foil seam out of sight. I'll come back and replace this picture once I've painted the car used to show the process, but here's a Scout II that I did last year with the same treatment. I think it makes a big difference having them opened up, not only for the accuracy when viewed from above but also for the way the shadow plays out below. Give it a try!

The old Revell T-Bone Stake is mine. Every time I find one, it's just been bought.

I spotted a pic of it in Lyle's show coverage the other day, so I've been watching for a pic spread here...absolutely delicious.

Great stuff. Taking notes...

Lookin' great, Fred. Cowbonuq...sounds like ninja-turtle slang.

Hurry up, Tom...I wanna see it!