Gluhead

Looks great, Bill. I'd been eye-balling mine and had come to the same cuts in my head, although I'd also considered carrying the thought through to detaching the whole rear quarter in the process, thinking it would be easier to finish up the bodywork on the upper quarter. I was probably just overthinking it, though. Anyway, looking forward to seeing how you finish them out. Should be killer.

AyeayeAYE! Yum.

Looks great, Bill. I see what you mean about the voluptuousness factor not quite being there yet. Looks as though the upper mid-ship needs a little dipperty action along the corners, and the back end of the panel when it comes up to the cockpit given a little rise in the center. Still, looks ready to rip.

I'm no fan of modern wheels either, Daniel...though I think they might be fine on this one, if I can foresee the final product correctly. (I eez a wheezird! ) Might be enough, at that. There's a lot of room to wiggle around in back there. I'd just start moving a wheel around and see what pulled the lines into good mojo. It's there somewhere.

That works, too!

Thanks, guys. Hard to believe I haven't worked on this one for a month now. I got distracted by the brick display thing, but that's almost finished so I'll be back on this very soon. Tom, it's getting One Coat Root Beer, same as the upper trim on the doors and dash...but I'm still debating on what I'll use, specifically, for the creamy roof. I've tried a couple spoon tests of what I have on hand and they don't quite got the right juju. I'll find the right one eventually.

Cool start, Mark. Nothing wrong with liking cars more than knowing them inside and out! That's why they invented the internubs...so's we kin lookit pikshures. The floor thing won't be too bad, once you get the body able to sit where you want it over the frame. Mock it up and use the frame as your guide to draw lines on the inside of the body (I actually keep an old pencil lead in a brass tube that I grab with tweezers for this, so that my marks are not skewed out of position by the bulk of a pencil or awkward angle...I'm sure you know what I mean!). If you give yourself a slight ledge with some strip or rod, above the marked line by the thickness of your floor material, it'll make life a lot easier having it to register to the same exact location every time you pull the floor out to fine tune its shape. I do them flat, first, then add whatever kickup is needed at the firewall, then tunnels and any other shapes that it needs. It's usually pretty stable by then, and you can just go back and trim out whatever you don't need anymore from the flat stock. Hope that helps. I'm on meds so it may just make it more confusing!

This has a lot of potential. Mike has a good eye in suggesting the rear overhang being too long...though I propose an alternative solution in relocating the rear wheels back a little bit rather than losing some tail length. Doing so would also help alleviate the slightly bloated look the current proportions give the roof, by creating a visual path that comes down the roofline and into the wheels, rather than behind them.

I can't think of a better way to put that kit together than this. Not what I expected at all. Pretty cool.

Thanks, guys. I appreciate the good words. Yep, more printing plate. Cut a strip, and bend a 90 near one end. Then I taped a scrap piece of the rod they'll be used with to a wood stick, and with the 90 up against one side of the rod just bent it over and pushed the other 90 in with my fingernail. A quick push in on each 90 with the end of a file to make it nice and crisp, drill and trim, and that's that. Funny you mentioned that, Joe! You're completely correct. I actually built doors for two years. I started to lay this one out as a proper z-frame, then while looking at pics of sliding barn door hardware (which I almost did for this), I came across one with this design and thought it was really sharp. So I went with it.

Good color and vibe. I like the hood ornament, too...nice touch.

Nice.

"What's the skinny" = "More info, please!"

It got my vote.

That's one way to get 'em dirty! What's the skinny on the Kub?

Neat. Is that light bar from the TR kit?

Pretty cool. I always love it when those projects pop up on the hamb. I remember following that Elkie over there while it was an active build. I've got two similar projects on the mental drawing board. Good stuff!

I bet! That's one thing I definitely lack...any abundance of scale tools. I'll have to remedy that when I get to the big build. Not much new tonight other than a bunch of nasty little tedious carp out of the way. Took a little head scratching to figure out how to make those little sleeves without destroying them in the process. Finally figured out to score the aluminum tube first then let the drill separate the pieces as it bored the inner diameter larger. Good little trick to remember for down the road...I'm sure it'll come in handy again on other things. I need to scratch up two outlet boxes, then I can start painting and weathering this stuff.

This is too cool.

Brad, that garage rocks! Being started 20 years ago doesn't seem to have had any ill-effects on it at all. Great vibe and tons of cool details. Love it. I've only airbrushed it onto foam core so far, Charlie, but it did seem to flow pretty well out of the brush, for the most part. It did get a little spitty at times but that was more my own fault than the paints. I thinned it with rubbing alcohol on this piece, not being sure how much of a factor soak-up would be...but it turned out to be a non-issue. Next time I run it through the airbrush I'll cut it with window cleaner. Should flow a little smoother.

Frenched means that the trim has been blended into the body. You can french a part without moving it. Recessed means to simply move back. One example would be relocating a floating grill farther back in the opening. Tunneling is recessing with extra material added to fill in the blank space left by moving the part back. This is one of those topics that can kinda bend your mind a bit trying to force everything into a specific definition. You can french a headlight without recessing or tunneling, but even if it's your goal to do so, you may have to recess the headlight to some degree in order to get the job done. But that doesn't necessarily make it recessed in the sense the word as intended here.

Great...thanks, Brad. I'll check it out after the belly stuffing this afternoon. Annealing this stuff takes very little. I waved it over my soldering torch for about 30 seconds per side, just making even passes back and forth to get it all. It gets pretty soft. The thinner stuff was too thin and tore under the stress of working it into a dome, but the thicker material was good. I'm pretty sure I could have gotten a deeper dome if I'd tried. I may yet.

Yep. Flour mortar. Just shake flour over the whole thing and rub it in, knock off excess and blow/brush off whatever else is left that you don't want. Beautifully inconsistent...which is of course just what we want. If it won't stick where you want it, running a little glass cleaner into the lines gives it something to hold on to. Plaster of Paris is another way to do it...same application techniques. The printing plate is exactly what it sounds like...offcuts from plates for a printing press. Check around for printer who will give you their scraps. The stuff is great! Brad (gasser59) turned me on to it, and I keep stumbling into new ways to put it to use.