CadillacPat

Okay, here's some in 1/64, Tires, rims and Center Caps each primered, colorcoated and cleared, to get that fat whitewall appearance. I'll look for pics of more I've done, All Products Used Are Exclusively House Of Kolor, Of Course!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CadillacPat

Wait a minute!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This sounds strangely familiar to that old Cajun joke about Dufrene and the chainsaw!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CadillacPat

Plowboy gets it!!!!!!!! Body Detail should never be corrupted by thick paint. Good and proper Body Prep covered with only the necessary amount of paint is the path to a good paintjob everytime. Very simple and always works. Now, we seem to be getting other info from other Modelers on this subject. That's what is great about Forums. CadillacPat

Don you do get the point. With mixing Enamels and Lacquers there is a chance of things getting muddled. Exactly what I meant. It's easy for someone who's been painting for years and years to break the supposed rules that govern AirBrushing. But, People new to the art should see all sides of something and have not only the pros but the cons of techniques to decide from. I don't know anything about your credibility Don but I have seen some nice paintjobs you've produced. That's all that really matters here. Like yourself I invite you to check out my website, what is on my vending tables, what I take to shows and Conventions and the Tutorials I have online. CadillacPat

I have to say Holding, you are always amusing and theatrical. Try and read my reply without your usual negativity towards what I write. I ADDED information that is ALSO known to be true and I can't read anywhere in my post where I stated that Yosts method will not work. I just can't understand you thinking about me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CadillacPat

Cheap Lacquer Thinner has been used for thinning Enamels for a long long time. I think everyone tries it out at some point in their AirBrushing. After all, once you realize you can clean your gun with Lacquer Thinner it makes sense you can (maybe) use the same chemical for thinning purposes. I was painting 1000 of these Convention Cars back in 2004, and used it to thin two cheap Green and Yellow aerosol paints. You can use Lacquer Thinner to thin your Enamels, and even Automotive Paints. But, should you??????? If you are "Misting" you can ususally shoot anything over anything and it will stick with no problems. But, Is misting the best way to paint? Some may confuse misiting with dusting and that could give you a paintjob that looks like a Chia Pet, you know, heavy grainy overspray piled up. And, you must be careful to use the same ratio of Lacquer Thinner that you use in your color coats, in your Primer. Why? Because a mixture of Lacquer Thinner/Enamel over plain Enamel or Enamel that has been thinned with a lower ration of Lacquer Thinner, could be disastrous. Misting may avoid this problem. As I said, if you mist lightly enough you can paint anything over anything. But, If you practice with your AirBrush, mix your paints correctly, and work with a psi between 20-30 lbs, You can move in and "lay down" your paint in better overlapping wet passes. No chance of grainy overspray and you don't waste paint. For all those painting in an apartment or room of their house, misting creates a lot more paint and fumes in the air. If you have mastered your misting and like painting that way then that is fine, whatever works for you. I think the idea of misting might be attractive to some newcomers because they are intimidated by the AirBrush itself and mixing paint for it. I've answered a lot of questions over the years from those who are intimidated about buying and using an AirBrush. Be careful about spraying an Enamel/Lacquer Thinner mix over a straight Enamel layer, it could boil up on you. That's the rub in combining paint systems. It's great to experiment, you never know what you may find. But if you stick with a system and use it, you'll never have a problem with your paint. CadillacPat

You can get a digital picture frame for about $40 and load tons of photos onto it. CadillacPat

Jon I use 2 different grades of Steel Wool to help remove casting imperfections from Metal Diecast. First #3 and finally #OOOO. I wouldn't use Steel Wool for Plastic. Instead you can use the Green ScotchBrite to scuff the surface of your Plastic in prep for good paint adhesion. CadillacPat

I don't really have much leniency available Hooter, except for our Canine Americans. Like you said, this subject has been discussed many times here. Just look through back pages and there's lots of dialogue. CadillacPat

Yes Tim, that's the Kustom Kolor 1 oz bottles that came along with the aerosol cans, cheap little plastic AirBrush guns, 1/64 scale stencils, and other accessories. I always use Gloss Black for an underlying basecoat for Pearl additives and I would suggest Gloss and not Flat Black for your color shifting application. You might get lucky and find someone who has used it. Some have used it but not very many. The paint just never made it around to a lot of people. It all came and went quickly like a ghost. CadillacPat

I'm a Moderator over on Decaltalk.com I've used several Decal Papers over the years and have found Papilio.com to have the best and freshest Decal Paper out there. I began with using Bel and had to send several packs of their product back. I never even looked at the Testors stuff. The Testors Paper and their Decal CD is bottom of the barrel. For years people online complained of buying the Testors Paper in the store and finding it old and dry. Here's a link to Papilio.com for their Decal Paper. Shipping is cheap. Sometimes my order arrives within 24 hrs. from the time I hang the phone up. http://www.texascraf...ome.php?cat=250 CadillacPat

Well that leaves out Urethanes, unless you want to remove it from $20 2/part aerosol cans. I don't use anything but House Of Kolor Urethane Clear so I'll leave the acrylics to someone who uses them. CadillacPat

Bill I think if we can get the first question answered (about Aerosols or Urethanes) then Lacquers, Enamels and Acrylics can fall in line. People may not realize that unless you stick with one specific system, i.e., Waterbased, Acrylics, Enamels, Lacquers, Urethanes, etc., then there is no ONE Clear that is best for them, except for Urethane which can go over anything. So, It's important to ask if this person is looking for Aerosol Clears that can be easily transferred to his AirBrush, or, is he interested in mixing his own paints. CadillacPat

Are you asking for the "best" aerosol clear that you an remove and shoot through an AirBrush? Or, Are you asking about 2 part Urethane Clears? Either way people are going to respond with their own favorite brands. CadillacPat

Fatkidd, You're close but they weren't made by Valspar. They only contained pigments from HOK. The whole Kustom Kolor idea is something that many at HOK were against (licensing out the HOK name for this particular idea) and the program collapsed quickly. Many of the Kustom Kolor paints are named similarly to HOK colors but they do not all look like their counterparts. Some might but not all. CadillacPat

Tim, Is this what you have? Fatkidd, the links you posted are for Automotive HOK. Kustom Kolor is not HOK Paint although permission was obtained to use the name on the label. Kustom Kolor paints were formulated specifically for quick drying on plastic models. HOK sent me boxes of this Kustom Kolor in bottles and aerosols. It can be used successfully. However, I prefer to use real House Of Kolor Automotive paints. CadillacPat

Tim, Can you post pics of the bottles? Sounds like you might have some old Black Gold (repoured HOK). But, Since you say it is Kustom Kolor it could be some of that promotion that went bust at the same time it reached the shelves. CadillacPat

Yes, Fluorescent reacts to a Black Light, typically. Neon can be a label for many different shades of a color, bright like Fluorescent but not necessarily luminous. Both of these labels are used on paints that don't necessarily have night reflective qualities. CadillacPat

Only two ways to determine if they will fit your needs. Do you know the CFM of each fan, or, have you turned on the fans to see how powerful they are? The dimensions of your booth are very near those of mine and I would suspect these two fans would push plenty air for your setup. I would probably try to put one in the base and one in the back. There is a slight problem. You're inlets are only 3 1/2" and your exhaust ports are even smaller. I prefer a larger intake with at least the same diameter exhaust. Check my other Paint Booth posts to see my mention of Baffles to focus incoming air. This will help with your small diameter intake fans. If your fans are strong they will probably still work in a small Paint Booth. For the $10 price you paid for these I would buy 6 of them and place 3 on the base and 3 on the back face. This way the whole floor area is pulling air and the whole rear wall is pulling air. CadillacPat

Safety is important in everything. But don't let speculation hold you back. What is really important is that you press ahead and build your Paint Booth so you achieve better results AirBrushing. CadillacPat

Jay I always like to see what someone else is using for their Paint Booth. When you say your's is State Of The Art can you show some pics. The new Samsung side by side Refrigerator is State of the Art and comes with GPS and a 7" x 9" LED screen with 3D and AM-FM. Is your Paint Booth made from Stainless? That would be ideal. CadillacPat

Miatatom, you're working with plastic so 105 degrees is just fine. You only want to assist the curing of the paint, not bake it as can be done with metal diecast. You might want to add a layer of 3/16" glass as a shelf just below the bulb. The glass will absorb and distribute heat evenly while preventing dust or small insects from falling on freshly painted subjects as they dry. CadillacPat

CadillacPat

Hooter a baffle is used to check or break the flow of fluids (air is a fluid). If you need to you can look it up in the dictionary. I'm sure it will be in there. CadillacPat

Hooter, I would not take the time to argue with an anonymous person over the internet. If you consider all discussions here "arguments" then why would you even participate. You act like a little kid and it looks like you have a child or two here to play with. Just use SPRAY CANS Hooter. It will be less complicated for you CadillacPat