jmpsebring

Two batteries sure look great though. I build more for fun. I'd rather have a well detailed perfect part than a poorly realized accurate part. (only talking about my abilities) The shape/colors of the Optima batteries define the part rather well. Even if I build the Braille battery perfectly, without the artwork decals to cover the battery, is it any better? Of course those who have the talent to print their own decals are set. That means a sheet of chassis component decals would be great too!! NOS bottle labels, MSD mags , Msd boxes, moroso's , Braille, Sonny's etc.

Awesome model !! Is that from a thread here? Chutes are fantastic.

Gotta go to work....THANK YOU

Very nice!! I love the rat promod. Great idea and they did it so well.

I think you need to design backwords. If you are thinking Mopar, then grab all the different current 1/25 slixx mopar sheets, see what is there, cut them apart and temp place the decals with double stick tape. Then lay out paint lines around the logos so they appear to be in scale. I'm finding that two Andy McCoy Duster decal sets can be split, modified to create 1/16th looking schemes. The big 1/25 Hamstra hood decal can be placed right next to the McCoy decals on the door. Looks like it was meant to be. I can spilt the side stripes along the center black area, make them as wide as I need and fill the center black areas with black paint. Look how great that roadster looked with the fram paint scheme. There are many 1/12 Red Bull bike/cars sets that could be the starting points......

casesforcollectables.com makes custom cases for anysize as long as it's under 4'x4'! Go to acyrlic box section and choose any size. I've had perfect service from them. Any other Questions , just ask. They might have cheaper cases for basketballs, etc. but if you want a hi-quality fair priced , perfectly shipped case, they are the ones. All my $$ models get their own cases. As I go hot and cold on a project, at least my project stays clean. If you have a 3" foot dragster, no problem!

Just awesome! ya think after decades of building, you're perfecting your craft. Then you see stuff like this and it knocks you back down a few steps. This is dangerous territory for me. I've been looking for used laths/mills on ebay for awhile. Plus it's only the starting point. All of those extra's cost alot too. When does it stop? Now were printing parts, buying motors and turned parts... I'll just leave it at that. We all stuggle with this kind of stuff. New TV and computer or laths/mills...? What paint did you use on the frame? Did you use a semigloss clear over it? Did you make the valve covers? using a lathe? How did you cut the red line inside the hat? Tape...decal...perhaps magic?

Of course decals placed in exact spots can do wonders! None of us can really tell better than you. Touching up the edges is no different than sanding through the paint. Can you match the paint? I'd would use a larger brush with a good point and flow then hand paint the red to cover the white. Then overpaint them with the black? In fact if you know how to paint the black pin stripes, then you should easily be able to touch up the red before hand. If that is overspray on the front edge of the door, then it might be smarter to mask the little blue area,but before you hit it with red, using an airbrush to reestablish the sharp line, put on a 1/2 mist coat of white to kill the blue, then clean the airbrush and shoot the red over the area. It's alot easier to cover the white than a darker blue. Same with the scoop. How much clear can you put on it? How well will you be able to knock down the high stuff? What kind of paint is it?

Cool photos! I'm aware that they will be too small. But they might be great generic brackets for something on my 1950 White COE custom chassis in 1/24th! Parts is parts... and I have two sets. The 1/16th TDR version has plates and a flat plate printed should come out just fine. Maybe I'll make them look anodized or something. Maybe I'll make a scale tracing and send it to the P/E gods. The more we chip in together in the design, the more they will fit the needs of the modeler. We have crushed this thread into a whole new direction. Sorry Ratnasty....but it was a thread showing new products.

thank you! I'm going to build a curbside Willy's with only the nose removable. The William's rear will go into that. I just ordered the complete 1/16 4-link from TDR. It looks more accurate and it's not much money. Did you design it? That will go into my Andy McCoy/ Hamstra style, full detail Duster. Gota battle all those Camaros next season While I have alot of years around Porsche prototypes, my only real expieriece of PROMODs consist of some 1/16th threads here, google and two weekends at Bud's Creek during a PROMOD meet. Again....My mistake. I went look'n for PROJACK images today......pretty cool

Since Dirtmodeler was able to get actual drawings and they were turned into 1/16th scale, I will retract my statement and just say it does not fit the Marc Williams rear end. While I do think most would buy those to use on that rear, it's certainly a valid part for other versions..... It also means that 'someone' could offer plates that fit the larger rear end.

The black wheels, the chassis in general all looking great. My car will have green bottles!

Sweet!!

If you are selling these and they are scaled up from those drawings then they at least fit some rear end in scale. Perhaps the rear end is all wrong. Could easily be the case. I have to go to work see ya in the morning. I'll take more photos. So if one has the TDR part as well, how much smaller is it? The problem I see is not how tall or the axle hole size, it's overall radius of the area around the hole in the plate and diameter of the Axle's end cap. It dwarfs the part. If fact it's bigger than the wide part of the plate much less the axle's reamed hole area. I'm not bitter about the money at all. I just was hoping to get great parts that can be used.

With all of the talk about the body, nobody is talking about the P/E parts. On another thread, it was brought up to design parts that go with parts. Here's a perfect example. The rear plates for the Promod axles are simply too small to be useful as plates. Simple as that. They need to be at least 1/3 larger to work. Such a same. They are stunning parts for sure. I was thrilled to get them. Maybe if they were 1/12th they would work on a 1/16 chassis? I hope they correct it. I bring this up so they at least know about it. Are they meant to be used on a small axle? I hope they didn't invest too much money. We need to slow down and douple check things. before they go into production. Please let me know if I'm wrong about the size. production.

Because Sonny uses a piece of wood to isolate(i'm guessing) the top plate and carbs from heat. So I thought it would be cool...no pun intended.

Actually I will likey use this in a Willy's curside with just nose removed. Don't feel the need to give up years of my life plus the $$$ money building a buch of full detail promods. I figure by the time I need a motor for my full detail Promod, We (dave) will have made everything obsolete. I'm just trying to make something more modern. My friend showed me a Sonny's catalog and I was amazed. As soon as I modified the valve cover..I was hooked. Building to look accurate? More like building to look cool. The rivets were from our raceshop (last job). I have 4 sizes and grabbed a handfull just for this type of problem. These are being used to set spacing. I might not use them for the real runners. Thanks for the comments, your engine block is stunning!

Even this page mentions every type except fancy round. I'm sure it's the 20 gauge. Calipers say .031"/ .80mm

It looked like this! Ain't computers wonderful. It was called German wire, I think it was fancy round.

Beadalon is the companies name. It was all together at Hobby Lobby though it's a common product at most big craft stores. The wire was the only style that was wrapped. It's only one size and approx a 3" coil in a plastic bag. The tubing is in little blue/white vials. in various sizes. Both brass and silverplated brass. Hope that helps. I'm 20 miles from ANYTHING. Perhaps next week I'll head back to town

Kinda like this but by no means is this done. I'm just playing and this is enough for the day. This is just the background for the carbs of course. The top plate will be thicker and far more detail. This is just a tinned piece of brass with a couple of round things on top sitting on a piece of wood Veneer.

Next is another thin top layer slightly smaller, a layer of thin wood, then the top plate.

Romell, it's a product from Beadalon I found in the craft store. It's a copper wire perfectly wrapped with a smaller wire in a spiral configuration. Then it's silver plated. Solders easily. Not cheap @ $11.00 or so. It looks better in person. I'm showing the worse end. If you lightly sand it afterwords, it's even more convincing. It will be used around the intake runners as well. Also found some different gauge wires in different candy colors. Very tough semi-gloss finish. Finally look for the micro bits of tubing in three different sizes. It's so nice to have perfect short lengths of tubing, perfectly square and cheap. Great for standoffs or whatever....

Thanks! I put more photos under the catch all 1/25 coupe thread

Thanks Dave, It's just what I needed. Here is my in-progress intake.