Ace-Garageguy

Whoa....guess it's a popular look. Everyone knows you jack a car way up to make it really handle well.

Gettin' the donk moves goin' on...

Hmmmmm...I didn't know that, having never seen the Avenger kit. I had a real Avenger on a Bug pan with a 140 Corvair mill for a while. Lotsa fun, but kinda awful fiberglass.

Speed City also lists these in 7" and 9" widths, soft resin, for 6 bucks. http://www.speedcityresin.com/PartsPageTires.html

Lotta cheater slicks had / have nothin' but straight grooves to comply with the most basic definition of 'tread'. Not too hard to chuck a standard slick in a drill and cut a pair of grooves...if you can't find anything from a kit.

The tube stuff is a solvent type glue, and if they used a big ol' blob of it, you won't get it off without damage. It will have actually 'welded' the parts together, and you can not break the bond. I used to do gluebomb restos almost exclusively, and finally just got tired of trying to correct all the 5-year-old-chimp work that had been done previously. A good indicator of WAY too much glue on a glass-to-roof bond is wiggly bodywork on the outside of the roof where the glue has softened it. This poor little '32 Ford was so well stuck together that I had no alternative but to cut it apart.

Hmmm. Looks like your OP photo has evaporated again. It's still in your P'bucket, but it doesn't come up when you try to link to it from here for some odd reason. Here it is again. Let's see if it evaporates.

I think those probably do more harm than good. The primaries are kinda longer than the optimum tuned length.

Man, you don't see those engines very often. Cool. That's quite the set of headers too.

Oh YEAH ! Though... if i were the driver I'd sure ask if the mechs could get the wiper to park somewhere other than in the middle of the screen.

That's some pretty country where you live, Stephen. Sure wish I'd bought a little farm when I had the money, but the then-significant other was opposed to the idea of living too far from flashy nightlife. Good luck with your new venture.

Man, beautiful truck. Occasionally I'll come across a very well-maintained and relatively rust-free old farm truck, but so far, I haven't had the money on the day. It's amazing how well some of these have survived intact and unmolested. Glad it's found a home with someone who would travel so far to get it.

Great looking color for a drag car, and it looks like you've done a fine job spraying it. You may know this is a repop of a vintage IMC kit that dates from the mid 1960s. IMC did several highly detailed kits that have been re-released over time. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Just a note on terminology..."altered" and "gasser" are drag-racing classes and are not interchangeable. A true gasser was a US-based car, with the engine in essentially the normal location (10% setback was permitted at one point). Gassers originally had to run full 'street' equipment but gradually evolved into full-blown race cars. The altered class, which this kit represents, allowed far more radical modifications, like this VW body on specially-constructed chassis with virtually any engine. Fiat Topolino bodies were common too, as well as other small European cars, and early American bodies like Bantams, Ford Ts, As, etc.

Nice work on the Focus, Jonathan. Self-reliance is a great way to save some money AND make sure the chimps don't break any more parts. That's a kinda cool little car. I don't honestly think I even knew there was such a thing as a Focus wagon. I may have to find out more about those.

Yup...I forgot about that. The stuff works well for representing clear "glass" instrument lenses.

Yeah, but it sure looked good for those three hundredths.

I was. About 60 miles south of New Yawk on the Joisey shore. Love the music.

It is used as an ADHESIVE or a LAMINATING RESIN. It is NOT A CLEAR COAT.

Here's another ill-conceived mess. A Ferrari "pontoon-fender" Testarossa wadded up and squeezed over a pool little innocent Miata. Yuck. See kiddies, the REAL design works...

Whoever told you that is a freakin' moron, and doesn't understand materials AT ALL It is an ADHESIVE or a LAMINATING RESIN for composite material work. You could use it as a finish clear with REAL CARBON FIBER, REAL WOOD, REAL FIBERGLASS or other composite materials on REAL CARS, REAL AIRCRAFT AND BOATS or VERY LARGE SCALE models. But the way you'd use it for those has nothing in common with smaller-scale plastic model work. It can be sprayed with the same kind of equipment we use to spray materials in the composites industry, which NO modelers have, which require REAL compressors, and you just don't want to go there. You COULD possibly brush it for use it over wooden model parts....like if you built a custom woody body or a scale surfboard or sailboat....but it's thick, it's not designed to flow out and gloss, it would fill details and obliterate them...so why try? BUT...you don't want to even THINK about using it as a clear over paint or anything else on a plastic model car, especially a 1/25 -1/24 scale model car.

I'd buy multiples of the "Little" guys simply because i wasn't in modeling when the originals were last available. I'd also buy reissues of the "Big" kits. I have several 1/8 '32 Fords already, a couple of T-buckets too. I recently passed on a "Big Drag" listed at close to a grand. Nope, but I'd pay reasonable money for a couple, at least.

Couldn't do it. I need at least one sports car, a sedan, a truck, and a tiny gas-sipper. Bare minimum.

I still think she's one of the 5 or so most breathtakingly, heartrendingly beautiful women who ever lived.

Black Bush. Definitely.