Ace-Garageguy

The '68 winner, ol' 1075, appears to be bodied as a Mk I. Also, please to notice the later Mirage-body cabin is entirely different from the GT40 it's based on. Rather lots of other differences too. Mirage: GT40 Mk I: (I think)

I'm sure I've got a spare set of fenders...most likely a frame too. Yours if you want 'em.

So, put a Y-block in the '48.

Skills.

If I could have any of 'em, I'd go for O.

In general, I like these three much better than the original choices on the prior thread. There are elements of all 3 cars I like a lot, actually. What I don't particularly like is the sky high engine mounting in F (E is better; It's just as radically lowered, but the engine isn't quite so high in the chassis). I really like the lines of E, but 4-bolt axles? Give me a break. It appears to be a V-8 powered car, so just don't drop the clutch in it. And it can't be about cost. Have you priced a junkyard diff lately? They're almost free. I'm not wild about the tops of the grille shells appearing to be higher than the tops of the cowls, either. Really ruins the flow of the lines, in my opinion. I'm kinda tired of fake patina and flat black, too. Get some skills and finish the damm cars. And I've always liked the custom '34 of Edsel Ford that Matt put forth in post #9, but I vastly prefer this nose on it...

Looks GREAT !

To everyone following this thread, I apologize if I seem overly critical. From everything I've seen so far, both upcoming Revell model-A kits look like they're going to be home-runs. But with a little tweaking, if it's economically feasible, they would both be out-of-the-park. Once again...no one is asking for a "perfect kit". But it would be nice to have the things that hit you immediately (at least if you're familiar with the 1:1s) done pretty close. We all know Revell is capable of producing consistent excellence; they've demonstrated it many times. PS: I personally am incapable of producing "perfect" work, but in the shop I contract with we all strive every minute of every day to get the things right that will be noticeable, and we try to do it, as I've said previously, before the client sees the car, before it's painted, and most definitely...we try to foresee problems BEFORE they become costly in terms of time and money to correct. Do-overs until we get it right is NOT our SOP...and would be impossible if we were to maintain acceptable costs and profits. We HAVE to catch things during the process...not after it's effectively too late to correct them. I don't understand how any business can operate any other way.

My bad...it's an AMT '36 all right. The little tab at the front of the rumble-seat opening confirms it's AMT.

That's a good haul. the yellow parts, in case you don't know, are from this kit, quite rare now... Looks like the light purple fender unit with nose, center right, is an original-issue Ala Kart too.

Yup. Here's one from the shop I work with. Finished last year. https://youtu.be/qSnPO1Q-MoM I have a little idea of what a model-A ought to look like. And though I had NOTHING to do with this particular build, this is the quality I'm expected to deliver, and my ability to do so consistently is why I remain on the roster. And before it starts...yes, I'm aware the car isn't perfect. I know every little flaw on it. It's not Riddler money either, though.

The '32 is an entirely...did I say ENTIRELY...different car from a '30-'31. Different cars...entirely.

As I've said many times before, if I did my own work that way...just got it out and did corrections later if the griping was loud enough, I'd be laughed out of the real hot-rod building business...and the structural-composites end of the general aviation business before that...and I'd probably be working at Maaco (or whatever other cut-rate body-shop gets away with that kind of approach to 'quality'). I sure as hell DON'T know everything, but I sure as hell DO have to get my own work right BEFORE the client sees it. And I'm sure I don't get paid as much as these "kit developer" wizards. Suggesting that "real modelers" will just correct the mistakes is simply not acceptable, especially from someone as respected as Tim Boyd. Maybe we CAN give a goofy looking blower, that doesn't have any analog in reality, a pass. But it's supposed to be a '30 Ford kit, so it might be nice if it actually looked like a '30 Ford with a '30 ford firewall.

Yeah, it's a Monogram '33-'34, but it's a '40 Ford hood immediately to the right.

Here's the gold car in progress. Guess we coulda left it that way and called it done. Nah.

Yeah...if you build it with the frame upside down.

Umm...great looking car, but it's a '32. All the rest are '30-'31 model-A bodies. No wonder so many people seem to be happy with glaring errors on models.

But that would require them to have been paying attention to something other than the Kardashians and texting a lot about absolutely nothing. Never happen.

Right. Which is why almost all of the 4-doors in my sphere of influence are kept as drivers, and the money is only put into more desirable body styles. It's always a mistake to think you're going to make money on a restoration though, unless you have something like a Ferrari Testarossa you got for $200. Even to restore a Pinto to true Pebble Beach concourse condition could easily top $100K. Filling a car with bondo, shooting a crapp paint job on it, and fiberglassing the rotten floors is NOT restoring...though I know a lot of folks who seem to think it is. So if you can't do it right...don't. Restore a car for the same best reason you build models...to enjoy something YOU particularly love. Then, whatever time and money you put in it will be worth it.

Great looking engine, Roger. That's one kit I don't have yet. Gotta get one now.

Best of all possible answers.

The megaphone / lakes pipe headers have caps under the turnouts (which don't look right in the photo), and the street exhaust system runs down from the megs and out the back. Click on the youtube video link directly under the photo in post #14 for a better look.

It wasn't finished in that shot. It now has a snap-down tonneau-style removable top insert. The video under the photo I posted does a walkaround of the finished car.