Ace-Garageguy

Works for me.

Wow. All beautiful work. The finish on the red / black '56 Chebby is so perfect, it takes some real effort to spot the other indications it's a model.

If your Olds is stock, both the factory HydraMatic and the 3-speed manual transmissions would have most likely had black-painted (or possibly engine color) cast-iron housings, not bare-metal cast aluminum like you see under many more recent vehicles.

I worked in Kingman on and off for a couple of years a while back. Same incredible skies as Ed's pics. At 3300 ft, In the hottest part of summer in an open (shaded) aircraft hangar, it was never as uncomfortable as working outside here (Georgia) in mid-80deg. F weather, and in winter I never had to wear more than a light sweater and a leather jacket in the mornings. Almost never put the top up on the car, and was almost always able to work outside comfortably on winter afternoons. Soon as I cut loose enough of the anchors keeping me here, I'll probably go back out there to semi-retire.

Yes, of course. Just as mike 51 says. "You'll have to make the nose/grille,hood,belly pans,hairpins,nerf bars etc and source the engine/trans and running gear to build a replica of that car. " I'm doing the Eddie Dye car on a WIP thread already. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/105602-eddie-dye-roadster-new-revell-29-scratchbash-sept-15-scaling-and-scratching/ The Dick Flint, Eddie Dye and Bill Niekamp cars are the best known and most perfectly built of all of the post-war track-nose '29 hot-rods. The Dick Flint car... Eddie Dye roadster... Bill Niekamp's car was the very first AMBR winner in 1950, and is now fully restored.

Funny you should mention that. It used to be common practice to infuse meat with CO to get that nice fresh bright-red color.

Couldn't quite decide if the build theme was "hot-rod" or "Mad Max", eh wot? Yuck.

Click here... https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=ebay sniping software

Definitely liking the proportions and rake. Hardly ever see a phonebooth T un-chopped.

Some more that spring to my mind as capturing the initial look and proportions of the 1:1 versions quite well are AMT's '49, '56 and '57 Fords...and Johan's '61 Dodge Phoenix is pretty good, though the front end on the Dodge seems a little 'heavy' visually. I've never actually measured any of these though. Revell's new-tool '29 ford got the curve of the rear deck behind the cockpit much more "right" than the old-standard AMT '29 did too.

That weird safety thing looks like the offspring of Gypsy from MST3K and an articulated road scraper.

Craft stores have "antiqiung" kits for furniture that have a 2 specially formulated coats of material that take advantage, in a controlled way, of the cracking that occurs when normally incompatible materials are used together. Similar effects can be achieved using other materials. Here are several youtube videos of different techniques, effects and processes... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jziYcZrWhoY

Wow. Sometimes I really think Arizona just might be heaven.

Possibly an incorrect assumption. I was reading the 1:1 hot-rod mags when I was a kid in the late '50s and on into the '70s. There was a considerable marketing presence by the model companies, selling to older kids and adults. A good bit of spin was put on the fun you could have building your dream rod or custom, even if you didn't have the funds to do the real thing. Magazine articles also spun building as a cheap "dry-run" to work out design ideas before committing to expensive metal. And because CAR model kits in styrene developed pretty directly from dealership-promos, where the manufacturers wanted the full-size product to be represented looking right in scale, a work-ethic developed around accuracy in model tooling and design. Also, look at some of Revell's more challenging kits of the early 1960s...Mickey Thompson's Challenger One for example. No way were these intricate and difficult models aimed primarily at a market lacking the skills to build them well...though many of us as youngsters, including me, made horrible bodged messes of the best of them.

Charlie, I think you'll find that these days, playing the sniper game yourself is the only way to get a shot at some of the more desirable things on ebay. I was an early-adopter of the strategy and pretty soon wondered how anybody could seriously think they'd win the bidding on something cool if they weren't in at the end. Bidding early and hoping for the best only drives the prices up. I DON'T use sniper software, 'cause I kinda feel like it's hunting sheep with a minigun. If I REALLY want something, I'll do the last-few-seconds manual bid with the maximum I'm willing to pay...even if it's the middle of the night...and let the cards fall. My win/loss ratio is still pretty good, and I figure if somebody is willing to pay a lot more than I am, he can have it. LOVE the "rumpswab" term too. Never heard it before...it's sure to become one of my top-ten words.

Nice save. Beautiful wheels too. The flake job really suits it.

Fine looking model. You always do such a nice job with these resin builds, you may just inspire me to try one myself someday. Great colors. I can just imagine a '50s Vogue-model-look blonde getting out of it.

Liking the rake and proportions, the tail treatment, the modern guts, wheels and rubber...all of it actually. Radically chopped phone-booth Ts have always been among my favorites.. Nice job you're doing with it. Just FYI...six individual throttle bodies could be made to work (I assume it's supposed to be a custom EFI setup). Might be a bugger to get the tuning software sorted, but it IS possible. Looks good, too.

There's a lot I like about this model, particularly your revised proportions that don't come off as 'forced', leave the car instantly recognizable as a '36 Ford, but make the viewer wonder just exactly what's different about it. Nice design work.

See, this is how it is...if you listen to some folks: The concept of "scale model" doesn't really mean anything. There's no such thing as a "scale model" because that would imply measuring and dividing accurately by a particular number to arrive at a particular "scale" (you know, for example...1:25 scale is all the dimensions of the real thing divided by 25, or you can say all the dimensions of the model are a 1/25 fraction of the dimensions of the real thing, etc.). This would require rigorous precision in measuring, math and basic arithmetic, and we all know how useless that stuff is. "Scale model" actually means "a loose interpretation of the general impression one guy gets of the subject, and it's not supposed to be particularly accurate because it's all subjective anyway, like art; curves and lines have to be fudged because this particular one guy doesn't like the impression his interpretation of the subject provides if he holds himself to accuracy...or maybe the math is just too hard or boring". It's kind of a good thing this doesn't work the other way around. I've designed multiple objects and vehicles in reduced scale, as have thousands of designers and engineers since civilization and tool-making-humans began designing things. When the design is developed, scaled-up, to real-size, 1:1, full-scale, it looks exactly like the original small-scale design. How odd.

Thanks for all the interest and kind comments, one and all. I'm still on the fence about the fan. I agree with Dennis that an electric has the potential to look like doo, but then again, a deeply-shrouded unit that didn't scream 'catalog street rod' could look OK, would make the car quieter and get a little power freed up off the line too...not to mention probably cooling better in the bargain. Since I build these things as if I were building the real one for myself...we'll see.

Thanks for the interest and comments, gentlemen. To tell the truth, this is an experiment to see how difficult it is to capture accurately the first-impression "look" of a real car from nothing but internet images. My Mickey Thompson first-version Challenger One in bare metal was a similar experiment in using subjective "interpretation" of photos combined with more objective techniques of photo analysis, taking into consideration things like lens distortion, parallax, etc. That worked pretty well once I learned how to look at an image and see what's really there. We'll see how this one goes.

Hey Chuck...good to know. I'll have to look into back-building one into a better looking Futura.

The Revell Ivo Buick heads appear to be identical to the old chrome parts-pack Revell heads, and I've bought several of the Ivo kits over the years just to get the engines, slicks, etc. Only reason I used the chrome heads is 'cause I had a built-up somewhat glooey-mess engine on the bench for salvage. The chrome block was past saving, but the heads are going to be fine.