Ace-Garageguy

Fine fine work on that tub. Really nice.

We've got some moron who thinks he's Ken Block driving his pickup around the neighborhood sideways this AM. Jeez. Are some people REALLY stupid enough to think to themselves "I saw a man on youtube driving wild so I'll go out and do that in a residential neighborhood with kids playing, pets running around and people out walking" ? Yup. Moron.

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So, because somebody "never got in trouble for it", that makes it OK, eh? BS. INTENTIONALLY scaring or startling someone can have tragic consequences. WHAT IF the guy had been so startled, he fell off the loading dock, landed wrong and broke his back, and was in a wheelchair for the rest of his life? Pretty funny, huh? If MY boss had done that to me, I'd have ripped him a new one, filed a complaint with HIS boss and OSHA , and gone on to find another job. With adults.

Great looking model. What jumps out at me is the very realistic-looking exhaust residue behind the cowl and on the wing root. Perfectly executed, and really brings that plane to life.

Yeah, the teams have the money to hire the talent that can do the work right.

Valspar, Rustoleum and even John Deere also sell rattle-cans of JD yellow paint. Apparently there are more than one JD yellow though.

Maybe this... Krylon Products Krylon 1816 John Deere Yellow Farm and Implement Paint - 12 oz Aerosol ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Or... Spray Paint, New John Deere Yellow, 11 Oz. 8-20957 Spray Paint, New John Deere Yellow, 11 Oz.

Or maybe it says "greetings Earth men. My mommanem had a ol' ford jus' like dis one back on Uranus. Wanna sell 'er cheap? Y'oughta 'cause the paint's scratched."

I used to use Elmer's wood glue. Takes a long time to dry and all the parts have to be jigged or pinned as it sets up, but it's very strong...stronger than the old Testors tube glue for wood models. It was casein back then, PVA today. i also had good results adhering the tissue covering with Elmers. Again, it takes patience, and has to be entirely dry before the water-spritz shrinking begins. Sig still makes both butyrate and nitrate dope for model planes.

Look in some "Switchers" kits if you have access to any. The carbs, stacks and blower you have on the tree, with the spike on the stack and the holes in the carbs and blower, are pretty much trademark Switchers parts. I have the '32 Sedan / Phaeton Switchers kit on the shelf, just looked in it. It has the same parts tree as your blower / engine tree, but it's chromed. The large chrome tree in the kit pictured below also has 4 of the wire basket-mags you have (2 deep, 2 shallow), plus a pair of deep and a pair of shallow 5-spoke mags that match yours.

You know they're building new ones again, right? http://www.morgan3wheeler.co.uk/smallsite/smallindex5.html

Try a Google image search: "Nascar shop". Bodies are built up one piece at a time, on a chassis plate, using jigs and templates. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Car being built up on a chassis plate... A body template... Template being used in a fabrication bay...

Beautiful Albatross, Bill. Built and flew several sticks & paper models as a kid. Have a still-boxed Jenny, Spitfire and a Piper Cub on the shelf, rescued from a thrift shop, and a couple of crashed RC ARFs rescued from a dumpster (with two transmitters, receivers, servos and engines !). Also have a huge scale balsa Spitfire, another one started by someone else and tossed in the trash. Not a cheap model, either. Coolest of the bunch is my fathers Staggerwing Beech, built by him shortly after the end of WW II. From a kit. I believe he musta used resorcinol glue, as it is spontaneously self-disassembling (a problem with resorcinol-glued REAL old aircraft, too!). Should make it easier to restore. I've only ever seen one other one, hanging in a now-defunct bar in Buckhead, buried in a dark dark varnish.

They fit well enought, but look nothing like the 351C engine and ZF gearbox in a production Pantera. While the big-block Ford engine from the Mk4 kit looks 427-ish (as the OP wanted) the gearbox is entirely different.

I have a kinda bizarre one in progress, inspired by wild showcars of the '60s. Fully enclosed trailer, twin-blown Viper power.

Right. It's a different skill, but I learned oxy-acetylene first, and Tig came easy after that. A monkey should be able to run a decent Mig bead (but apparently not, from what I see every day).

There are many kits available in those scales, but nothing like what's available in 1/24-1/25. Pocher, Tamiya, Monogram, Revell, Lindberg, Entex...there are quite a few out there...many more than I've mentioned.

How's this? They're probably the best ALL-AROUND drivers, able to go seriously fast on any surface, under any conditions, in any car. The different skills and strengths involved in other forms of motorsport have been touched on, and a rally driver may or may not have what it takes to be Formula 1 world champion, but I also seriously doubt most F1 drivers could perform as well under horrible conditions as typical rally drivers have to.

I resurrect a lot of gluebomb bodged and buggered messes. I've been able to gently score the glue-lines on some old models with an X-acto or the tip of a razor saw...score almost all the way through and then "snap". It doesn't always work, and you have to be able to get to the glue joint. I have often been able to pop off cylinder heads and oil pans glued on engines by starting the edge of a chisel-tip X-acto between the parts and tapping smartly with a little hammer. It's also a good way to gouge a deep cut in your hand. Be careful and THINK. Some models are so heavily glued with tube goo that no amount of "freezing", tapping or chiseling will work. In that case, I've had to resort to grinding the back-side of the joints out with a Dremel.

Just spray it. You're NOT going to get a spray-quality finish without a lot of time consuming trial and error, plus even more sanding and polishing on the back end. Then you have re-coat issues with lacquer (lacquer softens itself and can make a gooey mess when brushed over) and enamel (enamel has a recoat-window, where you HAVE to recoat it withing a limited period of time, or let it dry for a LONG time). Just spray it.

That pretty much covers it but it really depends entirely on the actual speed of the vehicle. Though spoilers and wings on cars will make some small amount of downforce a low speeds, the effect should be close to negligible. The other theoretical effect of an "aero kit" (I say "theoretical" because most of them are jokes...just styling gimmicks that have never seen a wind tunnel, CFD, or even tuft-testing), to help limit air from getting under the car, should be pretty much negligible as well. BUT: I have, on occasion, seen Jackie Stewart drive a Lola Can-Am car, and he was entirely capable of getting the car in a controlled 4-wheel drift at big-boy racing speeds. There's no question that THAT car's aero enhancements were helping. Stick your hand out the car window and angle it down like a nose spoiler on a car. Observe the amount of force it creates at "drifting" speeds. Empirical evidence at its most basic. "Drifting" is one of those things that's been taken out of context and made into a caricature of the real thing, like wildly excessive camber. (WARNING: oversimplification follows !!) Drifting naturally occurs as a vehicle's tires are no longer able to maintain a zero (or close to it) slip-angle during high speed cornering, and real race cars don't want that to happen. It's a slower way to get through a turn. The whole point of a wing on a REAL race car is to increase downforce...TO KEEP THE TIRES FROM SLIDING, SLIPPING, OR SPINNING. This is entirely in opposition to the point of "drifting", isn't it?

Oh, by all means. Cool kits, definitely. You can still find all 3 unbuilt, but the Ala Kart/'29 Ford and the '30 Monogram (in original issues) are getting pretty expensive. The AMT '29 was issued several times on its own, and the Monogram A was also issued as a build-it-only-one-way too. Prices for those are still pretty reasonable...but what you have are hot-rod classics, fer shur.

@ Tom: "Can anyone name the kits these came from? Note the chopped coupe is dark green plastic." Yessir. Top one is AMT '25 Ford T. Many variations, basically this one... Second one, chopped top, is Monogram 1/24 1930 Model A. Issued multiple times, first in '62, like this... Third one is AMT '29 Ford, originally issued as part of the AlaKart 2-fer kit.

You are a man after my own heart, sir. I think that was the absolute golden age of railroading in the States for exactly the reason you state...great mix of steam and diesel motive power, all over the country. I remember it well. I also have a soft spot for switchers, having spent many hours on a hill overlooking the yards as a kid. I live close to a short line now, and occasionally see an ancient GP-7 still working hard for its living.