Ace-Garageguy

Yup. And it's more than annoying for someone who relies on being able to get what used to be locally-available specialty hardware, electronic, and automotive items (like AN fittings and hose), for business, being forced to buy online. Interestingly though, my local HobbyTown has recently put in a whole lot more stock of car and aircraft and military kits than they used to carry, and it's fun to go there and just look at stuff again...which inevitably results in me walking out with stuff I had zero intention of buying on the way in. Many current kits turn out to be cheaper sourced from HT too, after figuring in shipping from online sellers.

On Dasher, on Blitzen...and you all know your names, so let's get going.

Here's more FYI. Duplicolor primer can be pretty "hot" for many of the current generation of softer, less solvent-resistant styrene kits. It's not always an issue, which is where testing on the backside of parts from the actual kit you're working on becomes prudent. This Revell '50 Olds hood was sufficiently solvent-resistant so there wasn't a problem...EXCEPT where I'd broken the surface to remove the center peak, an emblem, and some divots. Crazing, "ghosting", and swelling resulted, but repeated sanding and re-primering killed it eventually. After finally getting a full coat of gray and sanding with 600 wet, the result shot with Duplicolor "mica" looks like this:

Most excellent.

"Exciting" is watching paint dry, but then not much happens here these days.

Very interesting. I have something similar with my right hip...including the dreaming pain part.

800 really ought to be fine for leveling any gritty texture or orange peel you get in the primer. Do let it dry thoroughly to "shrink in" prior to sanding though. Only time I use anything finer is color-sanding prior to polishing color or clear.

I answered your question with correct information. EDIT: And now I see you've edited your post so your original question that only said "The Google search says, "Permanently Closed". Is this true?" has been embellished. I'm not exactly clear where the "yourself anointed pseudo intellectual" part comes in.

Tonight will most likely follow today.

What planet are you on? https://mcwfinishes.com/

No argument there. We've become a risk-averse culture, and a large part of what has been lost (that I referred to earlier) is the basic concept of "guts". It accounts for everything from bloated middle-management that's primarily concerned with blame-spreading if something goes awry, to the go-along-to-get-along-keep-your-head-down mentality embraced by so many, and includes the "happy wife, happy life" code of masculine conduct.

Think whatever you want, but words have new meanings attached to them as some people decide traditional definitions don't fit the ideas they want to convey, and that makes it difficult to understand their utterances sometimes, especially for those of us who prefer rationality to gibberish .

I can't imagine why anyone would use that for scale models. I would guess the solvents are particularly hot, to enhance adhesion to engine parts that haven't been cleaned as thoroughly as possible, or porous cast-iron that has absorbed some oil. But I don't KNOW, as I always shoot engine paint on real engines directly on bare metal just like the factory did. I WILL use primer under actual engine paint on models though, to fill minor imperfections on seams and to protect the plastic from hot solvents. These are the Duplicolor primers most modelers I'm aware of (including me) prefer (though some like the non-sanding sealer too): https://www.duplicolor.com/product/sandable-primer/

A deeper dive into the technical faults. I don't know if it's actually factual, or just yootoob clickbait.

One would certainly think that, as both vehicles are apparently capable of docking with the ISS, there would be across-the-board compatibility among primary life-support systems, the individual suit being the most primary. If there's not, mechanical adapters to hook one to the other shouldn't be all that hard to whip up, could be done Earthside and carried up with the SpaceX vehicle. I know nothing about the electrical requirement of the suits, but the same goes, I'd think. Then again, the way everything is done today, the suits probably have multiple layers of useless microprocessor complication making any kind of simple adaptation much more difficult. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- EDIT: If you can get past the irritating AI/computer narration, there's a little info here on poor decision making.

I have to agree it looks kinda Asian, but those headlights are pure '60s Euro.

Lines in the sand and chips on shoulders have much in common, though that's not intuitive to a non-native-English-speaker, or most recent college graduates.

It depends on what specific Duplicolor primer it is. They're NOT all the same. In general, they're too hot for a lot of recent plastic kit formulations, they might craze the plastic badly, so TEST before you use the stuff on something you care about. On the other hand, they work very well on more solvent-resistant plastics, found mostly in much older kits. If you'll post what exact product it is, we can give you more useful advice. Links below cover a lot.

Experiences in life can alter the results of 1+1, according to deep thinkers in certain circles...which might be triangles (depending, of course, on your point of reference).

Life is a budgie.

Drink deep the gathering gloom.

Despair not grasshopper, for you are soon to be looked at as a food source for the entire world.