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Everything posted by Ace-Garageguy
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Cars, or model cars, don't really need to be the subject here if I understand the concept of "off topic" correctly.
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Tri 5 Chevy Identification Charts
Ace-Garageguy replied to Kenmojr's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Good refs. Thanks. -
Glad you feel good. Frankly, it's mostly the simple things I am most thankful for every day now...and actively focus on being thankful for. With so much worldly insanity and uncertainty today, being consciously grateful for simple things can be a very useful tool to help one stay centered.
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Autoquiz #606 - Finished
Ace-Garageguy replied to carsntrucks4you's topic in Real or Model? / Auto ID Quiz
So easy it slipped my mind to respond. -
Autoquiz #607 - Finished
Ace-Garageguy replied to carsntrucks4you's topic in Real or Model? / Auto ID Quiz
P-mmmmmmd. -
Passing grades are no real proof that a student has a strong grasp of a subject.
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Quite possibly my all time favorite instrumental track. With the right girl at sunset...
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Wishing you a speedy and complete recovery, Bob.
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Tube-type amplifiers are reputed to produce a "warmer" sound than the digital variety.
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Say "howdy" if you're a cowboy or "ahoy matey" if you're a sailor or "arrrr" if you're a pirate or just mumble about things that never happened if you're a cabbage-brained idiot.
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Forum website has been sluggish for the last few days
Ace-Garageguy replied to peteski's topic in How To Use This Board
Yup...seemed to be working pretty well there for a while, but this AM it's starting to hang again. -
Sauce for the goose is good for the gander.
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Proud Mary Honky Tonk BBQ in Lexington Kentucky serves up live music along with great dead pig and other tasty critters.
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Sponge for brains isn't a great leadership quality.
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61F tonight with low humidity, perfect open-windows sleeping weather...and even better, my neighbors aren't burning their trash.
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Trip your waiter if you get really bad service with an attitude, but try to get him when he's carrying a platter full of food and dishes.
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2K question? Solvent pop or contaminant issue?
Ace-Garageguy replied to Dpate's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Honestly, it looks to me like you might be able to sand most (maybe all) of the divot down flat, then polish it as usual. You'll need to cut the divot flat, so you'll need to use a sanding block of some sort. I'd recommend hard rubber. Just sanding with no block, you'll ride over the divot without knocking it down, and there's also the likelihood you'll make a wave. Work carefully and don't get in a hurry...because you don't want to go all the way through the clear. If you DO, you'll have to reshoot the blue too, so stripping it would be best if that happens. Use plenty of water and squeegee it off frequently to see if it's flat. 4 coats of clear will most likely be enough to sand that out without even having to shoot more clear. Still, the worst case will be having to shoot the whole hood, which really isn't too bad. AND...the problem with trying to only airbrush the sanded area is that with 2K, you'll get a "blend edge" that won't polish out, because catalyzed clear doesn't re-wet like lacquer. -
Yugo became Yu-no-go after a rash of crankshaft failures.
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Telemarketers, especially scammers, go to a special circle in Hades that hadn't been invented when Dante wrote his Inferno, well below circle nine.
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2K question? Solvent pop or contaminant issue?
Ace-Garageguy replied to Dpate's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
"Solvent popping", by the way, looks like extra metallic particles, or sometimes light areas in the clear, particularly where it's heaviest. What it actually IS is thousands of tiny bubbles trapped in the clear, bubbles of solvent vapor that couldn't evaporate because too many coats were hammered on too fast with insufficient flash time, or in elevated temperature and humidity that made the material "kick" before solvent evaporation was complete. The bubbles will NOT sand out, and the only fix is to remove the entire coating and do it right. EDIT: I've been using "2K" products since they were first introduced to the automotive body repair and paint industry decades ago...on full-scale things and models. EDIT 2: Worst case of solvent-pop I ever had to deal with was on a Superformance Cobra repair I did for Chuck Gutke at Cobra Restorers. The temps were in the high 90s, as was the humidity for days on end. Every shop in town was shooting their paint late at night, because in many cases, even the slowest reducer and hardener wasn't enough to keep clearcoats from popping. I shot the car twice in the daytime, it popped horribly...and I had to sand it all off. I finally shot the thing at 04:00, and it was OK. I've pretty much seen it all. The chemistry and problems are identical. -
2K question? Solvent pop or contaminant issue?
Ace-Garageguy replied to Dpate's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
The divot is a fisheye due to contamination. Could be a single piece of dust that has silicone residue on it, or even a piece of pollen. And it's nothing remotely like "solvent popping". But boy howdy...that clear sure looks like you hammered it on thick and fast...and that IS a good way to get solvent pop...which the divot is NOT.