-
Posts
38,293 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Everything posted by Ace-Garageguy
-
"Lax" is what I sees a lots most places that aren't run by martinets.
-
Any guesses what engine is in this car?
Ace-Garageguy replied to larman's topic in WIP: Drag Racing Models
Going by TECHMAN's numbers, the biggest engine for the class would have been 335 cu. in., so the factory 312, a smallblock Chevy, a 324 Olds, a Dodge Red Ram hemi, DeSoto Firedome hemi, or even a Chrysler Firepower 331 hemi...or several other interesting engines are all possible. The 312 Ford had kinda odd stacked intake ports and didn't flow as well as some of the engines listed above, so it would have been easier to get power out of something else. And it's heavy. Just for an example, the '57 Olds 371 J2 factory 3X2 setup offered 312 HP, while the best factory Ford 312 2X4 engine was about 270 IIRC. While the J2 3X2 manifold isn't a direct bolt-on to a class-legal 324 Olds, it can be made to work...and with more cam and headers (which your photo car obviously has) well over 325 HP should be obtainable. For another option, the hot factory 2X4 bbl 331 Chrysler offered 300 HP...stock. Though it's also a heavy engine, the allowable engine setback in M/SP could help considerably, and again, with a lot more cam than stock, plus headers and all the other tricks, a whole lot of power and torque would be there. M/SP allowed more mods than the gas or production classes, including, as mentioned, significantly more engine setback, so you have a lot of latitude to build your fantasy while "keepin' it real". EDIT: A cost-no-object build might be a bored and stroked Chevrolet smallblock with Hilborn injection and lots of engine setback. It'll fit under your photo's hood. -
Nice fix. Amazing to me that it was done that way by the kit designer, for absolutely no apparent reason.
-
A good man, and a good friend. I'll miss him.
- 47 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- d___
- ill miss him
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
"Now" will be "then" by the time I finish typing this line.
-
Dinners of boiled rock broth and cardboard won't make you fat.
-
"Happens" is often preceded by "stuff".
-
Are there any hamsters who can find Europe on a map, figure 3-cubed in their heads, and read and comprehend anything more complex than "see Spot run" ?
-
Truck quiz #23 - Finished
Ace-Garageguy replied to carsntrucks4you's topic in Real or Model? / Auto ID Quiz
PM'd -
Testing is usually a good measure of how good the one being tested is at taking tests.
-
Idiosyncrasies are those things they put in manual transmissions to help folks who can't drive a crashbox.
-
Men wearing bermuda shorts with wingtips and sock garters...probably...aren't going to be scoring trophy wives.
-
Yup. I'm finishing up my last two client builds, but I'll still be building my own cars, mostly the old way, with OEM junkyard bits or quality NOS parts I've been collecting for decades. It's sad that most people not in the business realize...or will even listen when you try to tell them...how so much has gone downhill since the offshoring of everything began, for nothing but a quick buck and expediency, and that there's little to no quality-control before all this garbage is sent to market. There still IS quality out there, but it's always hit-or-miss whenever you buy anything you're not intimately familiar with, and a product that was decent last year may have been re-sourced this year, and may now be 3rd rate trash. Having to constantly re-engineer defective parts, or find some other way to cope, has taken the satisfaction and much of the profit out of the profession and caused pricing for quality, reliable repairs to skyrocket. I buy OEM parts if at all possible, but that's not always an option, particularly as the remaining stashes of NOS parts are almost entirely gone. And there's nothing to blame but short-sighted American corporate policy and price-first prioritization on the part of consumers. So they all got exactly what they set themselves up for...shiny and cheap and useless. And most people have no clue, nor do they care.
-
"Obsolete" on the interdwerps is any post more than a few minutes old.
-
Alternator case fix questions
Ace-Garageguy replied to Bucket T's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
The one you put up is a reman. However, new ones are available for not much more... https://www.ebay.com/itm/285798980447? https://www.ebay.com/itm/266725529302? -
Me too. He's a good guy.
-
I once had a '66 Country Squire with a 428. Just an old car nobody wanted at the time. Sure wish I had it now.
-
Snack choices like that make one wonder if you might be expecting.
-
I'm waiting patiently for 572 day.
-
Alternator case fix questions
Ace-Garageguy replied to Bucket T's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
On the surface that's not a bad idea. However...the reality of aftermarket parts is that they're almost never made to OEM specs, so there's no reason to expect the OEM guts will fit an aftermarket housing...unless you buy a rebuilt unit you KNOW was built in an OEM housing. Sorry, but that's just reality in the car biz. HOWEVER...the idea of finding a cheap used unit, even not working, is excellent. Clean it up, swap the parts out, replace the bearings and slip-brushes (rebuild kits should be available), and you're golden. -
Addiction to food is the one I've been trying to shake, but every time I try to go cold turkey, after a few hours the craving starts again.
-
IRS is one of those subjects I tend to avoid, so as not to create a disturbance in the Force that one of their minions might pick up on.
-
Alternator case fix questions
Ace-Garageguy replied to Bucket T's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
JB Weld? Nope. Though it'll work for some stuff, it won't work for that. It's just glue...not a structural repair. Though aluminum castings like that can be welded, unless the welder really knows his stuff, and can get pretty close to the original material for filler rod, it'll quite likely fail again right next to the weld. And because the long mounting bolt needs to be accurately aligned on both ends, the welder will have to take extra time to jig/fixture the part prior to welding...and most likely, at least a small amount of machine work will be necessary afterwards. To fix that correctly, both sides of both parts need to be tapered to a vee, the broken ear needs to be jigged in place, and beads need to be laid on both sides of the vee'd joint. There may be some movement of the ear during welding, so the hole may need to be trued afterwards, and any weld buildup on the milled faces of the ear need to be machined off. Also note that unless the ear is welded dead square with the housing, additional force will be placed on it when the mounting bolt is tightened down, which can lead to another failure. Because I have in-house TIG capability, if it were mine, I'd give it a shot, but I'd be prepared to replace it in the event welding wasn't successful. You can buy an entire replacement for anywhere from about $70 for aftermarket of questionable quality (and cheaper than fixing that case right, unless you know a really good welder who'll do you a deal) to around $500 for a genuine Nissan OEM part. EDIT: https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/syncrowave-210-miller-electric-shows-how-to-tig-weld-cast-aluminium/