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Everything posted by Ace-Garageguy
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Churches sometimes sponsor weekly or monthly car shows.
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With six you get eggroll.
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Show me the mummy.
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"Task shedding" is the concept of dumping non-essential activities in a crisis or emergency.
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With the current state of the world, one must always think through every post using self censorship.
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What's with the U.S.Post office these days?
Ace-Garageguy replied to styromaniac's topic in The Off-Topic Lounge
It's been working for me...just checked again and it's OK. -
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Any guesses what engine is in this car?
Ace-Garageguy replied to larman's topic in WIP: Drag Racing Models
IIRC, '57 was the first year for the Ford 9" rear end, and also the first year for the Borg Warner T-10 four-speed gearbox. EDIT: Yup. Checked. IRC. If you go with a hemi, those would be my choices. Any of the Revell '32 Fords have 9" rear ends that can be made to work with leaf springs (and will look fine under a 1/24 build), and most of the 1/24 Nascar kits have reinforced 9" rears. Though the sheetmetal reinforcement on the Nascar banjo housings wasn't a thing in '57, there's absolutely no reason somebody couldn't have done it. This vintage AMT engine parts pack (below) has both a Chrysler Firepower hemi and a slightly-overscale (for 1/25) T-10...and a whole lotta other good stuff. https://www.ebay.com/itm/326063448991 Only problem is that the hemi is blown...but somebody aftermarket sells a Hilborn injection setup for it, and there are kits with 2X4 manifolds that could be made to work too. -
About all the outpouring of love for Snake , , ,
Ace-Garageguy replied to Can-Con's topic in The Off-Topic Lounge
Last time I heard from the snakeman was April 6, when he sent me a photo of his new cane with a Hurst shifter handle. I asked him how everything was going and never heard back. Guess I should have followed up. -
That's what I do with all of my ex's dead credit cards. I have a several-lifetime supply.
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Turn the gas off under the coffee when you go out, or you risk coming home to a large pile of cinders.
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I don't know where it all came from, but my property this year is overrun with honeysuckle and some kind of flowering bush or shrub...and they both smell wonderful. I open my windows at night and the exhaust fan pulls it in. S'really nice.
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Problems arise when one habitually spends more than is coming in.
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Wallet bread may not go moldy and stale, but mine tends to get damp, so it's necessary to spread some around at times to make room for the dry, fresh stuff constantly coming in.
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I had a suggestion...but it would probably get me banned for life. Never mind.
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"It" can refer to a lot of things.
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Companions are great as long as they know when to keep quiet, and it's good if they have their own hobbies too...which women, in my experience, rarely do. (NOTE: Before anybody reports my "misogyny", I HAVE known women who had hobbies like photography, journaling, gardening, drawing and painting, designing and sewing custom clothing, and even one girl who worked on her own 911 and actively competed in solo SCCA events...but they are few and far between; simple truth.)
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Another GTO question, intake manifold
Ace-Garageguy replied to ksnow's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
No, a SBC manifold will NOT work on a Pontiac for several reasons. The biggest one is that the Pontiac V8 engines have the opposite cylinder stagger from a SBC, so the ports won't line up at all. SBC has the LH head farther forward than the RH head, Pontiac blocks have the RH head farther forward. SBC port stagger: Pontiac port stagger: Two more reasons 1) the water outlet under the t-stat housing on the vertical front surface of the Pontiac manifold that has to be there to mate with the front cover/water pump doesn't exist on a Chevy manifold, and 2) the distributor drive goes through SBC manifolds, while it comes straight out of Pontiac blocks. Note the water port directly under the thermostat location. It connects to the timing cover which is configured very differently from the SBC. (photo below) -
Household garbage should not be burned by homeowners (like my idiot neighbors), as it almost always contains plastics that will release harmful, even carcinogenic, chemicals...and it stinks up the whole neighborhood.
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Has Anyone Tried This Mash Up
Ace-Garageguy replied to bill-e-boy's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Should work fine. Just be aware of the axle centerlines on the new chassis. Nothing looks dorkier than wheels not centered in the fenders correctly. Far as the frame "reveals" go, it's not all that hard to add 'em in if you want the look. This is a set of really ancient AMT '32 rails getting done. A milling cutter in the Dremel makes quick work of the roughing-in... Chasing the shape with a flat-file gets the major irregularities out... Finish shaping with 180 wet followed by 600 wet and this is what it should look like... -
Yup, they're wonderful cars, and your model certainly does them justice. There are few engines as visually attractive, to me anyway, than those early ones with the gorgeous polished alloy cam covers. And that sound... I agree with you about the driving position, but the thing is just so pretty when you walk up to it, it can get away with a lot of small things...kinda like a beautiful woman.
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"Strainer...stranger...thingsh in hevunn and Earth than are dreamed of (hic) in your philoshopy, Hor...hor...horaaasshhhio" misquoted the drunk Shakespearean actor.
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Doing it from scratch may seem pretty daunting at first, but I've done a fair bit of this stuff both on real cars and models, and it's not really hard if you think things through. This 1/12 scale Datsun 240Z widebody convertible was a study for a full-scale project that died on the vine...though I still have the design rights and all of the full-scale parts that were purchased except for the body shell itself. Though it's quite different from the body kit in the OP's photos, the basic techniques for developing the custom panels are the same. Here's the trick to making flares. .010 styrene lips added to the original fender openings. Character lines in the fenders extended outwards and tapered into the body with .030 styrene. Fill resulting areas with bondo. Sculpt to shape. Similar technique is used to do nose cheeks. Bulge has been removed from hood, filled with sheet styrene, 'glass reinforced. ----------------------------------------------------- It all comes down to "make what you see". Doing the Camaro widebody is pretty straightforward, as the sides are relatively flat panels that are molded into the original fender shapes, without a lot of compound curves. Find a good profile shot of the car if you can, resize and print it in 1/25 scale, then make patterns for the slab sides directly from the photos. Make two identical sets, attach them to the main body...paying very close attention to symmetry, and mold it all together with bondo. Again, pay very close attention to symmetry every step of the way. And if you want to get really trick, after your bodywork is done, you can pull molds from the panels and lay up scale-thickness real fiberglass parts. The front splitter is a little more tricky, but if you break it down into simple shapes, carefully make those, stick them all together in the correct orientation, and then mold everything in, it wouldn't be particularly difficult. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I designed and developed this Porsche 904 rebody kit for the 914 for another client long ago, using much the same techniques. This photo shows the almost completed mold plugs on the car, coming out of my basement shop.
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Yes, almost. No offense intended, but as I've spent several decades around real ones, there are things that just jump out at me, and I'm not going to pick at them, or pretend otherwise. It's a beautiful model that anyone would be rightfully proud of.