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Everything posted by Ace-Garageguy
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Any chance this article could be found online somehow?
Ace-Garageguy replied to Monty's topic in The Off-Topic Lounge
https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/herb-adams He's also the author of one of the most useful books concerning chassis engineering and chassis tuning. -
Ford H series, very old build.
Ace-Garageguy replied to Repstock's topic in Model Trucks: Big Rigs and Heavy Equipment
Real pretty. -
I think somebody once said "you can lead a fool to a dictionary, but you can't make him use it".
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What defines “skinny” front tires?
Ace-Garageguy replied to dusty_shelf's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I can't recall when Frontrunners came on the market...but it's pretty easy to carefully sand the lettering off the sidewalls. Start with 180 grit wet to knock it down, then work progressively through 400, 600, 1200, 1500 wet. Work carefully and it'll look perfect...though you might have to spray the completed tires with something like SEM black to get an even color. -
What defines “skinny” front tires?
Ace-Garageguy replied to dusty_shelf's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
15" tires intended for small or compact cars were the norm for gasser fronts. Think about 4.5-5.60X15 in real bias-ply tire size. Around 5+ mm in scale width. Got a VW Bug or Porsche 356 kit lying around? For the period you show above, Pirelli (and other) radials for small European cars were common too. -
Very nice. Many many years back, a friend-of-a-friend's band used one of these to tour the country.
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"Cadillac arrest" is when your heart stops while getting chased by the po-lice doing 120 in your Eldo.
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In general, the 24-stud "59" series engines built from '46-'48 had the water outlets in the center of the heads. Later 24-stud "8BA" engines built between '49 and '53 had them at the front. The heads can be interchanged however, though water passages have to be modified. Earlier 21-stud heads also had the water necks at the front of the heads, and can not be used on a later 24-stud block. The 8BA is by far the most desirable, as it lacks the cast-on bellhousing of earlier engines, making it much easier to adapt a variety of transmissions. It also has internal improvements.
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At least he was a happy idiot.
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How 'bout an appalling ignorance emoji? Funny how people can present themselves as "experts" without, obviously, knowing the definitions of the terms they use. If ya don't even know the spelling of words like "pedestal" or "codependent", how can you possibly know you're using the concepts correctly when you're giving people "relationship advice"? But correct 'em so they just might be able to find a fact, and all you get is braying "grammer nazty!!!" from the equally appallingly ignorant peanut gallery.
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Just to help clarify...the Ford flathead V8 wasn't made until 1932 The '28-'31 Ford car engines were flathead 4-cylinders.
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Slurry of MGS epoxy resin and milled cotton fiber is the "glue" that holds real 200 MPH fiberglass sailplanes together.
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What continues to amaze me is that in pretty much every facet of "making stuff", whether it be cooking, building models, building/repairing real cars and aircraft, writing literature or computer code...even performing plastic surgery...there are billions of perfectly "normal" adults walking around who can't tell the difference between a cobbled-up 4th rate mess and top-line craftsmanship that borders on, or is in reality, art. And many of them get paid quite well indeed for the dog-vomit they spew on the landscape.
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Ground chuck is usually my first choice for taco, enchilada, and burrito filling.
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Idea development is one of the more enjoyable parts of modeling to those of us who have an active creative streak.
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Rhetorical questions can be the basis for thought experiments.
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Does anybody really know what time it is?
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One-Off Quiz #42 - Finished
Ace-Garageguy replied to carsntrucks4you's topic in Real or Model? / Auto ID Quiz
Oopsie doopsie. I finally figgered it out, but forgot to PM Michael... -
Why is my clear coat coming out textured?
Ace-Garageguy replied to Milo's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
In a project to do a period build using period materials and parts, I used Ace Hardware black "lacquer" to paint the body shell. It looked great...until I had to go back into it months later. It lifted and cracked just like enamel. The photo below is as-shot the first time. Same thing with their white "lacquer" I used as a gloss surface coat on a set of masters for a custom lakester body shell. A relatively simple job turned into a nightmare, and frankly, ended up compromising the quality of the build so badly, I've had to re-do much of it.