Ace-Garageguy

Another one I knew, but my internet went down before I remembered to send the answer to Michael. Same basic car as the Willys Aero, but re-badged for '55, with a different grille and trim. The tooling was shipped to Brazil and went into production there in 1960.

The currently available "aircraft" remover isn't like the old stuff. But THIS is EXCELLENT.

Yes. Use an etching primer first for best adhesion, followed by any Duplicolor or model primer.

That, sir, is pretty cool.

What's confusing? The "oh geez" is for the experts who say "paint the hood off". I think my answer is pretty easily comprehensible as to why you don't want to do that with pearls or metallics...as several other guys who understand have echoed. Those of us who paint real cars and have a clue would never dream of painting parts separately, unless the paint is a solid color. And even then, if the color is a base-clear, you can get a slight panel-to-panel mismatch. But then again, some people just don't even see it. EDIT: Some years back, the idiot know-it-all painter who shot a real-steel 354 Hemi-powered '33 Plymouth I built for a nationally known shop shot the HOK sunset orange with the fenders, hood, and doors separate..."but at the same time with the same batch." When it came back to me to build up, you could see across the parking lot that the panels were at least 3 different colors. This was a $250,000 build, and to say the owner was a little upset would be the understatement of the decade. It ended up costing the poor SOB who owned the car another 30 grand to get the paint right...as the clown who did it wrong wouldn't make it right himself, making up excuse after excuse after excuse. The car owner sued the bozo who made the mess, and collected absolutely nothing. Below is the car just before I'd completed the metalwork. The frame and engine in HOK sunset orange...

Exactly.

Oh geez. If it's a metallic or pearl, shoot at least the last coat with the hood on...or you will most likely get a color "flop" mismatch. Next time you go to a real car show, look at how many cars have slight mismatches between doors and fenders, or doors and quarter panels. But folks just never learn.

All that is is standard lacquer "blushing" due to humidity. Different lacquers have varying levels of sensitivity, and it ALWAYS polishes off...usually with nothing more aggressive than toothpaste. "Solvent popping", on the other hand, is the result of hammering on too much paint too fast...aggravated by high humidity and temperatures. And it will NOT polish out.

My mother wasn't even cold, literally, before my father's sister was rummaging through my mother's stuff to see what she could carry off. Never expect much from humans.

Bull. Some metallics can be sanded/polished, some can't. To tell someone "absolutely" is a disservice.

Thanks. I worked almost as hard on the lighting as on the model(s).

God, I hope not.

4-speed B&M-equipped Hydramatic "Hydro Stick" and single-speed "in-out" race box. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/b-m-hydro-transmission-help-to-identify.1180065/ https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/in-and-out-box-info.626091/

REFERENCE FOR GEN-1 OHV CADDY V8 HOP UP BITS: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/odd-ball-cadillac-331-390-speed-equipment.319750/

Yes, modding the 4X1-bbl manifold to a single or dual 4-bbl would be pretty easy, actually. Sand flat most of the existing carb flanges, remove whatever's left with knife and chisel blades, form new carb flanges from .020" sheet stock.

Thank you, sir. Definitely almost all the way back, but taking the rest of the week off to rest and make sure it's gone. Symptoms seem to point to the "RSV" thing going around, different from the last dose of flu-like misery that lasted several weeks. Funny...prior to the disease-that-cannot-be-named, I almost never got colds or flu. Now it seems to be every other month.

If the "acrylic base coat" product has instructions and/or recommended topcoats...FOLLOW THEM.

There are many techniques that don't require an airbrush, using dry pigment powders, pastels, chalks, acrylics, enamels, various applicators including makeup brushes, Q-tips, etc. And there's no shortage of really good model weathering videos on youtube. Any technique for train or military models will work on cars too. No answers here can even come close to what's available if you do some searching and watching on YT. Here's a start.

Thorough cleaning of resin parts is a good idea prior to applying primer or paint. I prefer to scrub with Comet, hot water, and a toothbrush, air dry, then a quick wash with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Afterwards, any rattlecan paint you'd use on plastic will work fine. SEM flexible black coating makes a very nice "new" finish for tires, as do many cheap flat and semi-gloss spray paints. It's really all about looking at pix of real tires, then experimenting until you get the effect that looks right to you.

There are many youtube videos on weathering car models, railroad models, and military models. All the techniques can be used on anything. Watch lotsa videos, get ideas, try it yourself. Here's one to start:

Why, thank you. They say consistency is important. I try, ever so humbly.

Good eye...and for that, you get The Emperor's New Clothes Honorary Recognition of Excellence in Observation Award for 2023.

States of mind are not always voluntary.