Ace-Garageguy

"Great dressers" would certainly describe all my exes, though each one had an entirely different style.

It's a WW II military tread design in an OD more suited to a CCKW, but with taller sidewalls so they'll fit a much smaller rim. Chariots of Fire has made some to fit larger rims for a few of his builds, and probably still has the molds and might make you a set...though you'd need to reduce the diameter of the centers to get the look above. WW II Jeep tires of the era used the same tread design, but the OD was much smaller than that pictured above, though the ID would be close. Tires from a 1/24 Wespe CCKW would get you the tread and approximate OD, but the ID is much too large as well. I have both 1/25 and 1/24 Power Wagon diecasts, though only the Ertl 1/25 is here. Its tires and rims are reasonably close to the OP's photo, but maybe a little undersized in the tire OD. You can often find broken diecasts for parts for reasonable money. The Danbury Mint version in 1/24 is considerably more expensive than the Ertl, though because it's a slightly larger scale, the tire/wheel combo might look closer to what's on the OP's photo if he built it using tha 1/25 '37/'38 Ford pickup kit. These can be found broken, for parts, as well.

Yup, mine is like that too. I don't have any idea if it's all of them, but I put it back in the box, more concerned with how the "chrome" would take foil eventually than anything else.

Over the years, I've really come to like the old Monogram 427 in all its iterations, some of which can be had pretty cheaply. Proportions are good, chassis is all coil. Just be sure the version you get has the Halibrand wheels (I may be mistaken, but I believe the "street" version only has wires). It's essentially the same kit as the fairly recent ROG version. For an engine, I'd most likely go with the smallblock from the Monogram Shelby GT 350 of the same period. It's also nominally 1/24, and again, can often be picked up cheap. I don't have one here to look at, as they were among the first batch I moved west. This one is, again, essentially the same kit as the more recent ROG kit, unboxed below.

I haven't done it, but I wouldn't make that assumption. By far the vast majority of car modelers accept what comes in the box, and either just don't see scaling and proportion issues, or if they do, don't care enough to correct them.

Even in states where it's no longer possible to buy generic MEK over the counter, it's often possible to buy Weld-On products over the web in cost-effective bulk quantities, shipped to your door.

Real pretty group there, sir.

I wonder how they differentiate between "gray" and "silver". If you lump those two together(colors like "storm gray metallic" and "gray mica"...both actually silvers), it's around 30%.

Three things I don't like about 'em. 1) More stuff to break, and if your installer isn't all that great, reliability can be an issue. Aftermarket auto-electric installers often use junk like 3M Scotchlok connectors and/or wire nuts, for instance. They're both failures waiting to happen. 2) You're not IN the car when you start it, so you won't be aware of anything that doesn't sound right on start-up. An odd sound on cold start-up can warn you of, possibly save you from, a catastrophic engine failure. 3) My extensive experience with aftermarket electronics has been disappointing, to say the least. There's often very little in support after the purchase, and warranty claims can be a nightmare...particularly if your installer fries something. That said, you're probably better off taking the advice of someone whose job it is to evaluate stuff like this. https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/a34512303/best-remote-car-starters/

Lane Bryant is a retailer that caters to "ample" women, or at least it was 30 years back when my significant other fit the description.

"Works" (factory) race cars were often sold to privateers at the end of the racing season, to be replaced by new cars for the factory drivers.

I can be frugal, but not quite to that extreme. Paper towels, on the other hand...

There was a fly in my soup, but he didn't eat much.

Or shout at clouds.

"Entirely subjective" is the key. Some guys want old trucks to ride like old trucks. Some guys want 'em to ride and handle like Jags. Some guys even like both approaches equally. One of my favorite builds from a couple decades back was a stock-appearing late '50s C1 Corvette on a well engineered tube-frame that carried C5/C4 guts. Wonderful car. Vintage appearance, contemporary performance. But I like driving a completely stock C1 just as much. Completely different experience, every bit as much fun.

Yes tovarisch. You can have any color as long as it's gray applied with a dirty pinecone on a stick.

Real cars tend to route secondary wires (plug wires) as short as possible. Always prudent to look at photos of the full-scale engine you're modeling. AND...as I believe someone else mentioned...I drill the holes in the heads all the way through into the space in the center of the block. Makes it easy to just push somewhat-too-long wires in to the right length, mark 'em, pull 'em out, and trim.

My favorites, by far. EDIT: And he offers them for several applications besides generic 4-6-8 cylinders.

Thing is, though, "safe" doesn't have to be as ugly as a pig's rump. A little applied aesthetic ability would have gone a long way towards selling the concept. Yeah, it's admirable some independent builders tried to address "safety" issues, but they really might have had a thought as to the appearance.

I don't know which kits are specifically referenced in Tim's book, but for what it's worth, period Revell kits like the original SWC Willys, the Tony Nancy double dragster kit, and Mickey Thompson's Challenger and Attempt have very accurate renditions of the appropriate GMC blowers and drives. Researching the particular car or time period / class you're trying to model is pretty easy on the web these days, and if you have any kind of sense of proportion, it's not hard to determine if a kit blower is in the scale ballpark or not. Measuring and scaling errors are very common among car models for some reason, particularly the greasy bits, but correcting them isn't usually a big deal. EDIT: Here's some real-world GMC blower info. https://www.mini-blowers.com/gmc-blower-versions.php http://www.wallaceracing.com/Basic Blower Measurements.htm https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/172930-help-me-understand-blower-sizes.html https://www.macsmotorcitygarage.com/a-quick-history-of-the-gmc-6-71-blower/ https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/identifying-6-71-cases.251272/

Got this twice this AM... An error occurred An error occurred (500 Error) We're sorry, but a temporary technical error has occurred which means we cannot display this site right now. No such file or directory You can try again by clicking the button below, or try again later. Try again

Looks like a "snow day" is shaping up. Light drizzle, temps falling rapidly, probably going to be icing the roads just as rush hour begins. Not even going to try going to the shops, as the temps are going to continue to fall all day, and whatever precip is out there will certainly freeze. Forecast low tonight around 12F. Ah well. I have paperwork I need to catch up on anyway. EDIT: Now the irk is that the "wintry mix event" failed to materialize. Judging from the lack of traffic I can see from my home office window though, it would appear the majority have elected to stay home this AM anyway.

Fine looking model. I have a gloobomb one of these I need to restore, and your build is certainly inspiring.

Man, that must have been scary. Glad you're getting better, and good luck in the future.

I've had excellent results from the MCG 2238 PE saw blades. They are much thinner than razor saws, so they will do things conventional razor saws wont. HOWEVER...because they're very thin, they bend easily, but don't break, and can be straightened. They do take a delicate touch, and are not tools for the ham-handed who get in a hurry. Using an MCG blade, I was able to save an expensive 1/8 scale Pocher Alfa Romeo gloobomb head where the cam covers had been heavily glooed, one glooed on backwards, with very little damage...but it took a few hours of patient work. EDIT: The reason for cutting the cam covers loose was to facilitate finishing them as polished aluminum, where the head itself would remain rough as-cast aluminum.