Ace-Garageguy

Eskimo Pies, mmmmmmmm; do they still even make those?

A sharp hobby blade will be fine, but you might need to do multiple passes, which is why the paper backing is nice for protecting it from scratches, and for keeping a steel rule aligned without sliding around. It's been a while since I've used it, but if my memory is at all reliable, .010" should be quite stiff enough for those windshield parts if you're working in 1/24-1/25. EDIT: I've most recently used 1/16 stuff for making a set of custom curved projector-beam covers to go in the old signal light holes in an S2 E-type. I cut that material with a flat cutoff wheel on a Dremel, then sanded the rough edges up to 600 to discourage cracks from starting on down the road.

Man...NICE. I love to see old stuff brought back instead of being thrown out. How are you doing the graphics / decals?

Yup. Unfortunately, a lot of trusting souls don't look closely at the originating address, and there must be a lot of them to keep these all these scamming scumballs in business.

I've used the .010" stuff, and scoring / snapping works best. Don't try to score round corners. Cut your panels square and file or sand the corners to shape. The stuff can be somewhat brittle too, although it's harder and stiffer than the alternatives, so work carefully. It's important that your scribed lines are "clean" with no jaggedy edges for cracks to start on. The stuff I referenced comes with a paper carrier on both sides, which makes it easier to lay something like a steel rule on it to scribe, without scratching.

Thin polycarbonate "Lexan" sheet https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/plastic-sheets/thin_gauge_polycarbonate_sheets/541

Looks good. Silver is a remarkably effective color for that body, really brings out the lines and curves.

Abductive reasoning as a substitute for empirical evidence.

Heat is harder to deal with than cold.

That is correct. Though it does represent a real aircraft engine, the engine in the kit is somewhere around 1/32.

If the whole system is used together, the stuff can be used for real-car parts, as it's hard clear-coated and doesn't dull, smear, or rub off like everything else. Based on SfanGoch's recommendation, I'm using it for new chrome on custom interior parts and re-chroming OEM interior parts on a high-end '66 Chevelle build, and once I have sufficient experience with it, I'll post my own observations.

The potential safety issues are why I withdrew my recommendations above. ONE possible (probable) reason for removing chrome is that there MIGHT be mold-lines present under the chrome. Manufacturers NEVER remove these lines, and they usually appear on the ends of plastic model car bumpers in highly visible locations. And while it is usually possible to design injection molded parts without any surface-visible mold parting-lines, it's not going to happen in most kits due to additional costs and the desire to put the bumper on a conventional sprue with many other parts.

Now that you mention it, a few things do seem out of kilter.

1930 was just a little before I got here.

Ummm...no. Chlorine is NOT sodium hypochlorite, which is a chemical compound made up of sodium, oxygen, and chlorine, NaOCl. Chlorine is a chemical element; it has symbol Cl and atomic number 17. The second-lightest of the halogens, it appears between fluorine and bromine in the periodic table and its properties are mostly intermediate between them. Chlorine is a yellow-green gas at room temperature. Accuracy in science matters.

Consider the Lobster.

Churchill Arms Pub was my nightly stop on the way home for enough years to see the owner's son grow up from a small boy to become the bartender.

I'm reasonably sure feePay requires a shipping method that includes a tracking number, as there's no shortage of scum-sucking bottom-feeders who will claim they never received their purchase, and put in for a refund otherwise. The default USPS shipping method has been "2 Day Priority" for a long time, but "Ground Advantage" is considerably cheaper, doesn't usually take much longer (though it can be considerably longer) and comes with tracking as well. More and more sellers are using it now. AND...as Len mentioned above, if you can arrange your purchases so that you get multiple items from the same seller, you save a worthwhile amount on shipping, usually. Of course there ARE those sellers who won't combine shipping, and then everything arrives in the same box anyway, where the seller paid less than half of what he charged...and I'll never buy from them again, and I hope the negative feedback I leave for them will dissuade others.

If I tried that and then complained about the results, I'd need to start an "I'm a moron" thread.

Welcome to the forum. Hope you'll find lotsa good stuff here.

Heard back from Gardner-Douglas, the builder of these things, and they're amenable to a spread-out build-stage program, as opposed to requiring purchase of the entire kit. They seem like a good company to do business with, so we'll see what we'll see...

PM'd. I want one.

Revival meetings in big tents erected in fields were a big draw in a little town where I once lived.

Yup. Any thought of serviceability today is pretty much dead.

It's shaping up to be a windy, rainy day, perfect for doing paperwork.