Ace-Garageguy

Thanks Mark. I figured if anybody would know them all, it'd be you.

Not as far as I'm aware, but modifying a Revell LaSalle into a reasonable facsimile shouldn't be too hard.

Exactly.

Thanks Carl. I have an old AMT that should be the same. I'll have a look.

Oatmeal?

A very stiff blade will work on soft metal like brass and aluminum. For harder metals, you'll need wee nippers with hardened jaws, and a very fine diamond file to remove nibs on hard material.

Detail wiring to spark plugs on models often looks like garden hose; contrary to some opinions, size matters.

Capsized isn't the same as screw-top sized.

It's much better with bourbon.

Probably ought to say "don't use this for a screwdriver" on the package, right?

It isn't too late until you're pushing up daisies.

Found a reference link, and found that most of my kits that had these things have already moved West. Also found one, all I need, in the old Lindberg-boxing of the AMT '34 Ford pickup.

I think I'll see if this one can't make it to the show Nov. 5, one way or another, too.

Yeah...since I have 'til the end of the year to finish the Stude, I think I'll see if I can drag this one across the line by Nov. 5.

Responsibility avoidance appears to be the driving factor behind much of what we see around us today.

Mixes of sodium and water can have interesting results.

Thanks to all for your answers.

One (or some) older AMT kits included a tubular style stand for displaying the optional engine. I've found the one made up from 3 flat parts in the shoebox Ford kit, but digging through all the likely candidates I still have here has turned up zilch. The one I mean came in the '34 Ford truck, shown below. But I seem to recall it came in others as well. Anybody?

I'm thinking full-fendered A-V8, just like one would have been built from '45 after the war through about '53, including the then-hot setup '34 X-member, 16" steel disc wheels, recapped slicks, 3-speed LaSalle or Packard gearbox behind a "full race" 8BA flathead, Halibrand 201 V8 quickchange (which would make it post-'48, I believe), '40 Ford "juice" brakes, and a dropped-and-filled front beam axle. Yeah, that'll work.

Word you were s'posed to use 4 hours back was "dumbfounded".

Not yet, as my chuck adapters for the Dremel won't quite handle the shanks on the cutters. But I have some on the way that will. I'm pretty sure the burrs you sent will be exactly what I need to do some mods on the diecast body. I've been using the same tungsten carbide cutters I got over a decade back, on steel, and they're still sharp and effective, almost indestructible if you don't let them get clogged. I expect the dental cutters to be much the same.

Thanks Carl.

You're not going to like my answer. I use MGS 285 epoxy resin and 285 (fast) hardener. It's over $300 per gallon, takes 24 hours for a full room-temperature cure, and likes a subsequent elevated temp post-cure to achieve maximum strength. I use it because I usually have it in stock for real aircraft work, and when it goes past the use-by date, it's a write off. It is used to build and repair high performance aircraft like the Cirrus SR22, and keep's 'em stuck together at 7g, so no worries about cracking while you're doing bodywork on a model. For high-strength fill work over questionable substrates, I use West System 105 resin with 205 hardener, thickened with microballoon. It takes 12 hours for a room temperature cure, but the beauty of the stuff is that it takes very fine scribed lines beautifully, with no flaking edges...very important for scribing new door opening lines, etc.

Yup, I've used fisheye eliminator in the past on real cars, but only as a last resort. But since I got into thoroughly cleaning everything with iso alcohol prior to painting, I've never had a problem. EDIT: In general though, this seems like one of those threads that reinforces the importance of testing materials from different paint systems that are NOT designed to work together on something else, BEFORE trying to paint a model.

"Hog out" in reference to brutally opening something up with a grinding tool is an expression that leaves more than a few listeners dumbfounded.