Ace-Garageguy

Don't touch the hot iron.

Looks like the start of a spectacular model...

Very nice. Another one of the best looking US cars of all time.

Digression #23355.5: Yes, the old AMT '32s are all pretty bad, but they CAN be modified into reasonably accurate models with a little applied effort. There's something wrong to my eye about the Revell 1/25 '32 Ford roadster body too. I haven't taken the time to figger out what, exactly, yet...but it just doesn't look quite right somehow. The Monogram 1/24 shell, on the other hand, looks good as-is. EDIT: But it's not like the oopsies we see on older kits are limited to 60+ year-old tooling. There are glaring and subtle inaccuracies concerning form and line on MANY Tamiya kits as well, but because they go together fairly easily, lotsa builders don't seem to notice or care. Recently-tooled Revell offerings have plenty of faults too...but the kits developed from scans are getting pretty impressive.

Ahhh...now that, sir, is a good looking effect. Much thanks. Hmmmm.................

Maybe there's a phone app for "AMT '57 Chevy build". That'd put the whole "skill" and "effort" thing in contemporary terms.

Nice. A hoodless '36 Ford 3-window with a hard chop is one of the most badarr cars on the planet. That ancient AMT kit still looks great when it's done right.

Looking good. Put me on the list of folks who like the colors you chose for the body, too. Definitely unique, subtle, and very attractive.

The 30-minute's worth a shot. But here's a secret not many folks seem to know. THE LONGER any epoxy takes to cure, THE STRONGER it usually is. You can't sand or scribe the West stuff I recommend for 12 hours. And it works, as my photos show.

There's absolutely no reason most everybody's standard go-to hinge design won't work on that decklid... http://images39.fotki.com/v1233/photos/1/1100664/6447846/nonsprung-vi.jpg http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff308/garyseeds/hinges14.jpg ...unless you want the hinges to come through those holes.

I'm beginning to think this way myself lately. Every other shipment I get seems to be damaged, but if it's barely good enough, I'm just getting on with fixing whatever the issue is rather than waiting for some salaried mouth-breather who knows nothing and cares less to make it right...and who-knows-what kind of shipping foul-ups.

And that right there is why I recommended the West epoxy and microballoon mix I use. The thread I linked to shows two perfect scribed lines very close together. NOTHING else I've tried would allow that kind of result.

Aircraft modelers tend to be a little more quality-focused than the general herd. Here are some more recommendations... https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/29897-re-scribing-panel-lines-what-tools-do-you-use/

Far as re-scribing technique, I'll give my own insight. First, I'll assume you want to get lines that are supposed to be straight lines straight, and corners and curves with nice clean radii. Nothing detracts from a model like wonky scribing. For STRAIGHT lines, I'll use a self-adhesive tape product as a guide...something like Dymo label-making tape, or heavy 3M aluminum aircraft tape. I find the HARD edges afforded by these materials are vastly easier to follow than soft masking tape...unless you're really an old hand at scribing. The temptation for most folks is to use too much pressure initially, and that will surely get you into the real estate surrounding a masking tape guide. A HARD edge just works better. For curves, rounded corners, and other non-straight lines, there are lotsa scribing guides on the market. These are generally photo-etched rectangles of metal with various openings with a variety of curves. They look like draftsman's eraser-shields from long ago. You securely tape the guide to the work, and scribe through it. As stated elsewhere, start very lightly, and make as many passes as you need to to achieve the required depth. I also do NOT recommend the old "backside of a #11 blade". You want something made for the job, that will take a very thin "curl" out of the groove, rather than having the tendency to widen the scribe as you go deeper like the old #11 blade will. I HIGHLY recommend these scribing tools from Tamiya. My scribing work has improved to the point I'm very happy with it since purchasing and mastering them. Folks complain about the expense, but if you want to do quality work, there's no substitute for good tools.

Fine looking truck...from the days when trucks looked like trucks. Very nice work.

I have tried EVERY filler known to man. The ONLY thing that has worked is West epoxy 105 with 205 hardener, mixed into a stiff slurry using microballoon. See page three of this thread...and if you have any questions about getting the lines right again, just ask.

DOUBLE POST

You didn't sand enough, pure and simple. The idea is to LEVEL THE ORANGE PEEL FIRST. COMPLETELY. And 3600 just isn't coarse enough to level heavy peel like that. 800 or as Snake recommends, 1000, would be a better grit to start with. Then the successively finer grits remove the previous grit's sanding scratches. You need to understand the process, and look very carefully at the results of each successive sanding step. If you really look closely, you can see exactly what you've accomplished...or not...and how much more you need to do. Just rubbing the thing with a few swipes of sandpaper or pads and then moving to a finer grit won't get it. Far as Testors clear being garbage goes, I shot both of these with "wet look", and the Chevelle was sanded and polished. NOTE: The Chevelle pix are prior to a correct and full wetsand / polish. I was under an online contest deadline. The Olds hood is exactly as shot...no sanding or polishing at all. http://i1019.photobucket.com/albums/af320/fastoldcarz/Gearz 70 Chevelle/DSCN5584.jpg http://i1019.photobucket.com/albums/af320/fastoldcarz/Gearz 70 Chevelle/DSCN5573.jpg http://i1019.photobucket.com/albums/af320/fastoldcarz/50 Olds fastback chopped/AUG12014Caddy_Challenger_50olds079_zps80fcb570.jpg EDIT: The new improved website won't display my own pix copied from this very site, and I have neither the time nor interest to compensate for the changes. The links, however, appear to be clickable. EDIT 2: Developing your spray technique to minimize the amount of orange-peel you get would be very helpful as well. Orange-peel is not inevitable.

Nice. Looks like it could have been one of Chrysler Corp's factory concept cars way back in the wayback.

Not much better than mine, but my package was an expensive set of Ohaus scales I need to mix aircraft-spec epoxy next Monday. It was supposed to be here Friday, but got bumped to Saturday, apparently due to exceptionally heavy volume. And it wouldn't be much of an issue if I worked from home...but except for some fairly infrequent paperwork, research and design, and billing, I can't. Add to that that I'd slated this weekend to pick up three engines, an engine hoist, several bike fairings, a ton of tools, and a Jag from a friend's basement. MOST of these things HAVE to be moved during non-inclement weather, and there's simply not enough time tomorrow to get it all done before the forecast rains in the PM and Monday. Plus, I'm rapidly using up my remaining time here in the moldy, rusty, Swampeast prior to moving West. I just don't have hours to burn waiting around for anything. In the event, I DID get a lot accomplished, but not at all what I NEEDED to get done today. Life as an adult can be frustrating...

Yup. And the "S.C.o.T." blower was the only one available at the time (even though it's not great). The included side-draft carb setup for the blown engine was decent too. The 409 engine wasn't too bad either. I'm still using those engines occasionally.

...delivered 5:59 PM. Scheduled Delivery Date: Saturday, 05/08/2021 Estimated Delivery Time: 10:00 AM - 12:00 PM Hello, your package has been delivered. Delivery Date: Saturday, 05/08/2021 Delivery Time: 05:58 PM Left At: MET CUST MAN

Not here yet. It's 5:16 PM and the updated "estimated delivery window" is now "by 7:00 PM".