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Ace-Garageguy

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Everything posted by Ace-Garageguy

  1. Really glad your wife's OK. Scary stuff. We often forget how easily someone we care for could be gone in an instant.
  2. Spex84 is correct. It can be done on a shop press (or with a big hammer if you're really old-school) with a little time and patience. Here's the time-tested cold method, just like from the rod mags way back when... https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/re-tech-reversing-a-main-leaf-spring-eyes.225377/ An alternative hot method is to heat, flatten, and re-roll the eyes, then re-temper the metal. Not recommended for amateurs, but entirely safe if done right. Big IF.
  3. You're very welcome. A twin-turbo Viper engine in a Belvedere would be really cool, definitely different. Plumb it like the V8 above, but don't forget to get the inlets and outlets on the turbines right, and it should look fine.
  4. Except that Revell didn't make a '32 phaeton. They made a '32 3-window coupe, a 5-window coupe, a roadster, and a sedan...all sharing much of the same tooling, including running gear and frames. These Revell kits are perfect for a street-rod, as they have nice tubular dropped front axles with disc brakes, and a Ford 9" on coils out back. No phaeton body, however...which is what we were all getting at above...how to make an AMT body fit the Revell fenders and chassis. Maybe the Revell phaeton you were thinking of was the 1930 Model A? Possibly? The A is an entirely different car from a '32, so it's really not going to work for what you want to do...although it might be worth a try, as it's 1/24 scale. The A is a physically smaller car than a '32, but the Revell '32 Fords are 1/25 scale. The scale difference just might get the '30 body close enough to pass on a '32.
  5. Zee-ing rear frames was occasionally seen on customs where the builders wanted to retain usable wheel travel, and C-notching the rails for axle clearance didn't give enough. It wasn't a popular mod because it requires very extensive metal work on the trunk floor to get the body to fit.
  6. The AMT hood tops fit the AMT cowls, of course, also fit the Revell grille shell well, and are the correct length. Use Revell hood sides. Simply adding material to the AMT shell and rescribing door lines seems much easier to me than trying to get a lot of different body parts to line up correctly.
  7. Plumbing is also different if it's supposed to be a suck-through or blow-through carburetted installation, or port or throttle-body fuel injected. And there is some confusing gobbledygook already posted. But in general, the small diagram above (afx's post) is the easiest to understand from a function standpoint and is representative of a port-injected inline engine, though the fuel path isn't shown. For a twin-turbo V8, you'd have two of everything shown...more or less. Feel free to ask specific questions. I build real cars. EDIT: What's happening in afx's diagram (reposted below so you don't have to scroll back and forth) and every turbo system on Earth: Hot exhaust from the exhaust manifolds or headers goes through the turbine to spin it, then out through the tailpipe. The spinning turbine is connected to the compressor wheel by a shaft, and so spins the compressor wheel. Cool, clean inlet air comes in to the compressor side where it gets compressed (and also picks up heat in the process). This compressed air goes through the intercooler to cool it somewhat, then goes on into the intake manifold of the engine. EDIT 2: Below is a typical component layout for a turbocharged V8. Both turbos blow into a common intercooler, and the cooled air is then directed to the intake manifold. Though this is pretty standard, different installations can arrange components differently (might use two seperate intercoolers, for example), but they all work the same (disregard the MAF; it just means "mass airflow sensor"). EDIT 3: The exhaust connections on the turbos in the illustration above are shown reversed, wrong, like so much stuff on the interdwerbs. The pink exhaust manifolds should be blowing on the turbine blades, and the red exhaust pipes should come out the center of the turbine housings. EDIT 4: The illustration below shows the guts of a typical turbo, and should help in understanding how these things work.
  8. If you want a reasonably accurate '32 phaeton, you only have one option, really. The old MPC kit is toylike, and the frame is nothing like a real '32 Ford. And as Mark alluded to above, all the AMT '32 Fords are too short, height-wise, at the cowl. BUT...the AMT phaeton body shell can be reworked to fit the very nice Revell fenders and frame (though the engine and running gear are not stock, so if you're after a car as ol' Henry built it, there's a lot more work to do). As far as the body goes, this pink AMT Victoria body, on the right, demonstrates how much material has to be added to get it the same height as the much more correct Revell body. After adding material, shaping it, and re-scribing the lower door lines, it will fit quite well...though you may need to rework the rear fenders at the tail, under the rear body panel.
  9. More than anything, it depends on the period you're wanting to represent. In the '50s, there were lots of 'hop-up' options for the old "stovebolt" six, including multiple carbs, headers, aluminum heads, and even mechanical fuel injection. Some of these are available from various kits. In 1949, GM began introducing a variety of overhead-valve V8 engines. Cadillac and Olds swaps were popular, nailhead-Buicks had a following, Pontiac made a strong-running V8 beginning in '55, and the ubiquitous Chevy smallblock also came on the scene in '55. The little Chevy is probably THE most popular engine-swap of all time. Also seen, but not too common, were early Chrysler OHV V8 "hemi" engines, in several flavors: Chrysler, DeSoto, and Dodge. All of this stuff is available from kit sources.
  10. Funny that the single most prevalent method of lowering cars by backyard hackers (and some people who really should have known better as well) in the early days has been entirely overlooked. Long shackles applied to buggy-spring suspension systems (transverse leaf-springs, like Ford used through 1948) were common. They also destroyed any semblance of stability because they ignored, typically, the way things actually work, and why. Longer-than-stock shackles on transverse springs allow a car to move sideways on its suspension during cornering, often to a very dangerous degree. Tail-dragger "lead sleds" were notorious offenders, until reasonably intelligent builders learned to employ "anti-sway" bars, also known as Panhard bars. Side-to-side "sway" can be mitigated by a transverse link that limits the movement of the body/chassis relative to the suspension. Over the years, interestingly, the "anti-roll" bar, an entirely different thing that does something very different, has come to be known as a "sway bar"...which it isn't. The other hugely popular method for lowering cars with beam front axles has also been overlooked. "Dropped" front axles, sometimes called "Diegoed or Dagoed" back in the late '40s and early '50s (not an ethnic reference, so don't anybody get excited), were built from stock axles by heating the ends and re-forging them to position the king-pin bosses higher relative to the main beam. This is not the same as "dropped spindles" mentioned above. Done correctly, it's fine. Done wrong, which it frequently was, the axle snaps. "Torching" springs, both leaf and coil (already mentioned) was another popular hacker modification. Again heavily functional-ignorance based, it destroys the temper of the metal the spring is made from, tends to locally embrittle it, and frequently resulted in broken springs. As far as adjustable suspension goes, "air bags" date back to 1950. Originally developed as overload-helper devices, they were soon recognized by the custom community as a way to provide adjustable ride height. '50s stock-car racers liked 'em too, and Air Lift sponsored several. "Air-lift shocks" followed, allowing simpler installation of the lift feature. I used them on the rear of my own Porsche-engined '62 VW Bug slalom car for weight jacking. Early hydraulically-adjustable suspensions from the late '50s used salvaged and surplus aircraft hydraulic pumps, cylinders, accumulators, and plumbing.
  11. Don't forget the semester learning to say "buh bye" with a smile in your voice, and with enough different inflections so each disembarking passenger hears a special version, just for him.
  12. Yup. I've been replacing my compact fluorescents as they burn out with LEDs. For maximum light, be sure to buy the "100 watt equivalent" LED bulbs. Prices have come WAY down in recent years. They are available in warm white and "daylight", which to me can be a little tiring, as the light is somewhat cold and bluish. I find one of each over the bench makes a nice effect. The 100 watt "equivalent" bulbs produce as much light as 100 watt incandescents, but only use something like 15 watts. They are vastly more efficient because almost all the electricity they consume makes light, rather than waste heat. This results in reduced air-conditioning cost in summer, too.
  13. More info about the full-scale Experimental Soaring Association...with videos.. http://sustainableskies.org/tag/experimental-soaring-association/ http://sustainableskies.org/tehachapi-soars-new-ideas-day-2/
  14. Good stuff. "Dynamic Soaring" has been of interest in the full scale sailplane community for some time, and has been investigated for possible integration into performance-enhancement of military UAV applications. NASA has also looked at it from the standpoint of non-Earth planetary atmospheric "slingshotting" to gain free momentum for space vehicles under some circumstances. I was privileged to attend a presentation put on by Capt. Randy Gordon from Edwards (mentioned in the second video), sponsored by the Experimental Soaring Association (EDIT: oops Soaring Society of America) some years back, at their annual technical event in Tehachapi, Ca. Anyone really into the science of the concept can start here: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/229746401_Optimal_patterns_of_glider_dynamic_soaring
  15. Well, it IS WikiPee, ya know? Kinda half-right sorta is usually close enough. EDIT: Pretty sure, kinda halfway, that later Phantom Weasels could carry the AGM-78 ARM.
  16. There were a lot of people involved with a lot of aircraft from a lot of outfits. This from WikiPee (slightly different from my remembry, but close enough for a model car forum) : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Korat_Royal_Thai_Air_Force_Base "In February 1972, the 67th TFS returned on temporary duty to Korat from Kadena AB, this time being equipped with the EF-4C aircraft. The EF-4C was the initial Wild Weasel version of the Phantom. It was a modified version of the F-4C, designed in parallel with the F-105G Wild Weasel program. The EF-4Cs suffered from certain deficiencies which limited their combat effectiveness. For example, they were unable to carry the standard ARM. Consequently, the EF-4C was seen only as an interim Wild Weasel aircraft, pending the introduction of a more suitable type. In February 1973, after the end of combat operations in Vietnam, the 67th TFS with its EF-4C Wild Weasels were withdrawn and returned to Kadena." Far as I recall, nobody called 'em EF-4Cs. They were just Wild Weasel Phantoms or F4-C Wild Weasels. Deployment was delayed because of numerous development difficulties resulting from a lack of physical space in the aircraft with its 2 engines, and some electronic incompatibility issues I should remember but don't.
  17. It's funny how many people have told me over the years that Phantoms never flew in the Wild Weasel role during the Vietnam war. Everybody seems to know about the Thuds and Super Sabres though. Never mind that I saw operational aircraft in theater, knew pilots and crew, became good friends with one of the pilots, and almost married his daughter. The way I remember it: The first operational Wild Weasel F4-C Phantom was delivered to the 67th Tactical Fighter Squadron at Kadena, on Okinawa, in October of 1969. 3 years later, late '72, the 67th TFS was sent to Korat Royal Thai Air Force Base, and flew point with Operation Linebacker II. Over 450 missions, if I recall correctly. Kinda broke my heart in the late 2000s, seeing Vietnam-era Phantoms being converted to target drones at BAE in Mojave, Ca.
  18. Yup. Old friend of mine, now gone, was a Wild Weasel Phantom driver in SE Asia. In the late '70s, Phantoms were still operating from Dobbins in Marietta, Ga. My shop was across Hwy. 41 from the end of one runway. Often, just at dusk, pairs would launch in full AB, with the cones of purple-orange fire in the tails brilliantly visible against the darkening sky.
  19. The downside to these is that there are proportion and line issues with all of them. Though they can all build up to be very attractive models, they're not extremely accurate. I bought a bunch of these really cheap back in about 2005 or so, when I'd been away from the hobby for decades. The box-art sold me. The beautiful illustrations look like the cars they represent. Unfortunately, the same cannot be said for the kits themselves, and heavy surgery with a very good eye is necessary to correct them (as the later box-art photos of the kits built up demonstrate). EDIT: The old Revell Jag E-type roadster, the one that was originally made by Revell, actually looks like a Jag.
  20. Any competent radiator shop back in the '50s could have added brackets or even pins to a cut-down brass radiator, while cutting one down to size. Cut-down cores and custom tanks and radiator frames were not uncommon. Standard replacement cores, tanks, necks, and other parts were also available in a wide range of sizes, for collision work and maintenance. Again, it was not difficult for someone who was competent to build a custom or semi-custom brass/radiator using old-school materials and techniques. Replacement tanks and necks. Old brass radiator after being de-soldered, without core. Modifications at this point are simple and straightforward. Side and bottom frames are steel. Fabrication of mods is just like doing anything else.
  21. Thanks for the additional info. Most helpful.
  22. Yup...that's always my favorite day with an older car here. After 20 years, anything goes. Hot damm...
  23. Back and forth for the time being. Probably won't be completely moved until the end of 2020.
  24. Typically, the radiator will have brackets welded or soldered to it that allow mounting to the vehicle frame. These can be located virtually anywhere on the radiator frame that's sufficiently strong. And as tbill says, additional brackets mount the shell to the radiator. The photo below shows a common arrangement. You have a chopped radiator mounted ahead of the crossmember, so a custom rad will be required. One easy no-show way to mount it would be to have the radiator builder install pins on the bottom of the thing, like some late-model cars use. Then you use brackets with holes extending forward from the crossmember. The pins go in the holes, with a rubber donut between. See below. On the top of the radiator, you would have brackets to accept stiffining rods that run to the firewall, instead of mounting pins.
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