Ace-Garageguy

I just pulled the kit to double double check. Yes, it has that. Yes, it is an Olds. No question.

The biggest and most obvious difference between the Poncho and Olds is the heavy cast iron flywheel housing extension on the rear of the Olds block. Pontiacs don't have it. The kit represents an Oldsmobile.

It's been a while, but if memory serves... While the ('49?) 51-'56 Ford rear ends look "nine-inchy", they're entirely different units. Having a removable pumpkin, they're visually similar enough to pass for most modelers, however. Nine-inch rear end housings came in a variety of configurations and at many widths for different applications. Heavy duty and hi-po Fords in '55-'56 (T-bird, wagons and sedan deliveries, police interceptors, and some light trucks) were equipped with the Dana 44. The factory manual also shows what looks a lot like a Dana 41 for '49-'50 cars, but I don't remember exactly what came in what, and when. It looks like this, with an integral pinion housing, and a removable round cover on the back.

Most likely, it's supposed to be 394-based. That was the last factory displacement for the first generation Olds OHV V8. Introduced in 1949, the engines came in 303-324-371 flavors also. Only built through 1964. Probably because you're used to looking at post-1964 Olds engines. The first-generation postwar Olds OHV V8 engines are superficially visually similar to the Pontiacs and Cadillacs of like vintage.

Guess I'm just lucky. Over six decades worth (my father started taking me up when I was quite young).

1) He was flying quite slow, and sure as hell wasn't flying at over 180MPH, 'cause that bird won't even go that fast. Top speed is 178. And don't believe what the mainstream media, largely ignorant of just about everything, tells you. SEE EYEWITNESS VIDEO LINKED BELOW 2) You can certainly hover...BUT...the altimeter is calibrated to sea level, using atmospheric pressure for its reference. Flying into mountainous terrain, the altimeter does NOT adjust to tell you how high you are over the ground. That's why a fair number of pilots fly their little planes into the sides of mountains. And that is why this flight, and most like it, operate under VFR, Visual Flight Rules. VFR includes things like absolute minimums for "ceiling" (how high the bottom of the clouds is) and general horizontal visibility. 3) When hovering in a whiteout, you have zero reference for much of your spatial orientation. Yes, you have an altimeter, but as I explained above, it does not compensate for rising terrain. You also have an instrument called an "artificial horizon" that tells you if your nose is up or down, and if your wings (rotors in this case) are level. BUT...there are no instruments that tell you if you're sliding backwards, or off to one side. 4) Without extremely sophisticated ground-mapping radar, there's just no way to tell where the hell you are in whiteout conditions. 5) It will be at least 6 months before the NTSB make even their interim investigation results public. Until then though, countless media morons and non-flying armchair experts will be all over this event with their stupid comments and theories.

Very nice, especially the lines and proportions. Crazy show-cars can get to look really stupid. A lot of 'em do. But your design works well, much better than most, for an over-the-top custom rod.

If you're going 3M, be sure you specify the green stretchable plastic stuff. It's thinner and more flexible than the purple, and will make a razor-sharp line.

Generally good advice. SEM is very hot. HOWEVER...my own testing has shown that it works fine on some kit plastics, but causes grief on others. This is black self-etching SEM on a very solvent-resistant early ('61) Johan Dodge. No crazing, excellent adhesion, and flowed out very well.

No, they are not. They never were, either. PlastiKote was the go-to primer for over 20 years specifically because it was different from anything else available...not as hot as Duplicolor, but just as good a barrier, and easy-sanding. It's been reformulated at least twice fairly recently, and the "new, better" stuff is just cheap garbage, the result of bean-counters meddling with something they didn't understand and nothing at all like the product that veteran builders came to love.

Yes, it uses an external coil. You can mount it anywhere, just like most coils of its type, but the factory mounts it to the front of the RH cylinder head .

Very carefully. I'll generally correct something like that cold, just bending slightly past where I want to go, but I have years of experience. Even then, I get the occasional 'snap'. Safest way is to fix the frame sides to a flat board, and pour just boiling water over them. OR...if you jig the parts together square, and wick liquid cement into the joints, the crossmembers MIGHT hold the whole mess straight when you un-jig it.

Oh, the humanity.

This is why experienced modelers here always recommend TEST FIRST before applying any material to a model. Colors don't always look the same as the can top or sample. Materials are often incompatible...even materials from the same manufacturer (we just went through a long thread on that too). The odds of anyone here having shot exactly the combination you're asking about are minuscule, and opinions starting with "I think" or "I heard" aren't worth the electrons it takes to display them on your screen.

Yup, their carb linkage is nice. Engine bracket accessories, radiator face panel material, blower hardware, and other PE sets are great. They do machined aluminum parts like gas caps too. All of it first rate. They do ignition wire too, scale-correct, unlike the garden-hose sized stuff some folks sell.

In the thin-skinned offended-by-everything crybaby virtue-signalling PC world we live in today, Monty Python would be taken out and shot. Interesting that intelligence is strongly correlated with having a sense of humor.

Belchfire GT Laundaulet Supreme Limited Custom Signature Edition MK-Z 33 and 1/3

Custom or what-if concept, it's still a striking piece of work. Imagine showing up at a car show with that built on Mustang underpinnings...with no backyard hacking, everything built like the factory would have done it.

I know a 1:1 car builder who sincerely believes he's justified in charging the client for a day like that.

I can count to potato.

Yup.

UNINTENTIONAL DOUBLE POST

There's no blanket answer, though there seems to be an implication in this thread that there should be. Plastic 3D parts are made from a variety of different plastics, using different processes. Filament-printed parts are made from thermoplastics like polystyrene and ABS, and will exhibit the same longevity and stability characteristics as the base plastics the filament spool is made from. Just as model car "styrene" can vary in quality from manufacturer to manufacturer, so can printing filament. 3D printed parts made from liquid resin are essentially modified thermoset plastics, with some characteristics in common with traditional "resin" parts...but light, typically UV, is used to initiate and complete the cross-polymerization that makes the goo hard. With traditional "resin" parts, the polymerization depends on the addition of a chemical "hardener" or catalyst, and sloppy measuring can have a dramatic effect on part performance over time. The light-curing liquid resins don't depend on idiots adding carefully measured chemicals to make them work. The chemical engineering that's done by the resin supplier should be a reasonable guarantee of uniformity and stability, but you really can't depend on that 100%. Light-curing resins in 3D printing applications may also depend on "post-cure" procedures, like a lengthy bath in UV light, to fully harden them after printing. If this isn't done, or isn't done correctly, you're going to have instability and deterioration with these as well.