Ace-Garageguy

Some years back, I built a 354-powered '33 Plymouth coupe... Back in 2013, a fella in Oz was working on that era Dodge and Plymouth resin masters... Here's another thread about the roadster...

It's not the sentient beings I'm particularly concerned with. Far as I'm concerned, at least half of homo sapiens fail to qualify.

S'okay. I already have a 55 gallon drum to seal myself into, and 50 feet of 5/16" tow chain to lash it to a 150-year-old Joshua tree that's most likely lived through dozens of haboobs.

You can bet their bean counters are making interest on the "float". The longer they can delay a completed transfer, the more they stand to make. In economics, float is duplicate money present in the banking system during the time between a deposit being made in the recipient's account and the money being deducted from the sender's account. It can be used as investable asset, but makes up the smallest part of the money supply.

Depending on what scale you're working in, clear fishing line works very well. The red stuff works for old-school red neoprene fuel line too. It comes in lotsa diameters, but it's generally only really appropriate for 1/24/ -1/25 etc.

In case nobody's noticed, Google Pay is pushing hard to unseat PayPal. Google already has a stranglehold on information, and along with their toady YouTube, very obviously engages in widespread censorship. Don't give them access to your banking info.

Thanks, Carl. Yup, still moving, but stuck here until I finish up my part of a high-end '66 Chevelle I promised I'd see through to the end. Getting close to engine-start, and not too long after that I can hand it off to paint. Then I'll move the first truckload to the place in Az.

Ho baby...smokin' hot design. Fine proportions, yes indeed. VERY nice work here...

Full scale, running and drivable versions of these two original designs... https://contest.techbriefs.com/2010/entries/transportation/871 1/10 scale wind-tunnel model: Full scale body plug in progress back in '97: 1/8 scale mockup:

EDIT: The stuff on the floor is packing peanuts from the dozens of kits I bought this year that I'll probably never get to.

This is also excellent advice. The molding process will duplicate EXACTLY anything that's on your master. ANYTHING. EXACTLY. If your surface finish is, say, 400 grit sanding scratches, that is what every part pulled from the molds will have too. I've seen countless "experts" and "professionals" who, for some unfathomable reason couldn't grasp this fact, and wasted untold hours correcting parts that were halfassed as masters...a stupid waste of time that's entirely avoidable if you get your masters PERFECT.

Nice pix. One would have needed the patience of Job to put up with the glacial "acceleration" of that mountain of iron and steel powered by a flathead six. Jeez...I remember when trucks were slow.

Very nice. Wheels look perfect for it too.

^^^ Heed Mark's words. Pretty much exactly what I would have advised, and I also have decades of working with various casting and other composite materials. There are many good and CORRECT sources of information from the manufacturers of casting products, including excellent videos. Here are some: https://www.smooth-on.com/tutorials/ https://www.freemansupply.com/library/video https://www.polytek.com/how-to/tutorials-videos

I always liked these little engines. My first "professional" engine swap was a 215-hp OHC 6 and a Powerglide stuffed into a Jag MkVII that had a bad rod knock. With about 50 additional horsepower and considerably less maintenance required, it made a nice, drivable car at a time when such a mod wasn't looked upon as sacrilege.

I really liked the proportions, lines, and stance of your first mockup, thought it was spot-on for a radical yet practical, drivable rod. I actually think it was much more attractive than your 1:1 inspiration. You would, of course, need to section the grille to get sufficient ground clearance, but careful juggling of the proportions would keep the look.

And after eating the noisy neighbors, out would come the precious Spice... Wait, wait...I need to look that up...

I haven't seen those little guys right where I am yet, but when I was looking at property a few thousand feet up, there was a family of 'em browsing through the yard. Hmm, I says to myself. Free range porkchops (apparently good eating as long as they're handled right in the field). I now have recipes for all kinds of porky goodness, including javelina pastrami. Only critters I've seen on the ground so far are lotsa well-camouflaged tarantulas (no recipes for big hairy spiders yet, alas...I'll leave that to the Cambods), two kinds of rabbits, and quail (and the big gopher my neighbor caught).

Nice assembly representing the big Hewland, but it's a little pricey to buy just for the gearbox. Last time I looked, the Revell Shelby S1 kit was pretty much unloved and cheap...which is why I bought a bunch of them for the ZF. And the ZF will take more power than most of the affordable Porsche gearboxes, while gearboxes from exotics would be insanely expensive in the real world.

Nope. A 6-speed built by RBT in Texas, a development of the older 5-speed ZF. http://rbttrans.com/ The Revell kit has what is a dead ringer (close enough to easily pass, anyway) for an old ZF 5-speed, mounted upside down, at the rear, with a torque-tube bolted to the front of it. EDIT: Yup. Just pulled the kit and double-checked. Looks just like an old 5-spd ZF, upside down. No doubt whatsoever. Did I mention I specialized in Panteras for years, decades back, and kinda know the gearboxes?

A sand moat...

Only until I'm moved in, the chain link and barbed wire perimeter fences are up, the tracking lasers and machine guns are calibrated, and the moat is filled and stocked with giant mutant gill-equipped gila monsters.

Mo debinately. The first one has much better proportions than I remember, kinda Roth-esque (but I haven't looked in the boxes for years), and the second one looks mean. Nice work. The QC conversion looks good too...though in a small bump, the housing would be hitting the spring...which is why an A or T spring is often used with a quick-change. Just one other small engineering suggestion...if this were a real car, you'd want to bring that front suicide spring perch all the way up and over the spring pack. That way the U-bolts wouldn't be entirely responsible for supporting the weight of the vehicle...which can be multiplied several times in "bump". Rather, they'd just be there to keep the spring located to the underside of the perch (of course, you might already be planning this, and what we see might only be for mockup purposes...).

Try harder. High-end audio (tube-type amps, etc.), vinyl records and turntables to play 'em, "continuation" cars like the Jags and Kirkham Cobras, bias-ply tires, all manner of hand tools, countless "retro" styled and constructed clothing items, the Beechcraft Bonanza, ballpoint pens, photographic film, several styles of "mag" wheels, Weber and Holley carbs, firearms and ammunition whose designs go much farther back than '63, Coca Cola, etc. etc. etc.