Ace-Garageguy

The real ones are spiral-wound. Wind some fine wire over an appropriate sized flexible base wire. Shrink the appropriate size heat-shrink over all of it. Done. EDIT: Shouldn't this be in "model building questions and answers"?

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1313.TR8.TRC0.A0.H0.X1963+Tempest.TRS0&_nkw=1963+Tempest&_sacat=2580

Just made a pot of my world-famous End of the Year Chili. Never the same twice, always including whatever's in the pantry about to go out of date (or what isn't more than a few months past it), the week's leftovers, and whatever meat was on the most deeply-discounted sale. A steaming mess of sweet-hot mouth-searing goodness. Now for the fresh cornbread...

Common-core spelling (and drawing correct inferences from available data) at its finest...not you, the STPO sign. Just wanted to make that clear.

My current daily gas-hog. 305 / 5-speed. She had two cracked heads from being driven with no water by an idiot. I saved her from the crusher for $100, kinda went through the top end, and she's now pushing 300,000 miles. Slated to get a new engine shortly, back-dated to V-belts. For some reason, she's among my absolute all-time favorite vehicles. My "nice" truck, a '92 Silverado in the background, is also getting a new engine shortly (after a lifter exploded, jammed in its bore, and cracked a chunk out of the block at 250,000 miles).

Cars and aircraft...most recently after having also done heavy composite repairs. And a little "art"...

Be sure to include $200 and a self-addressed padded box too.

Ahhhhh...the old rolling stop. I know it well.

I never had to grease the seat to get some togetherness.

I find myself asking that very same question multiple times every day.

I remember you. Welcome back. There was a thread posted just a few days ago about the small-to-nonexistent female component we have here. Glad to have your input again.

My guess would be to correct those huge gaps around the kit parts.

Even if the glue damage is fairly deep, with effort and time, it's often possible to save clear parts. Start with 400 (or so) grit sandpaper, on a block (so you don't cause distortion), wet. Sand the pitting or etching all the way out. Then go to progressively finer grits, wet, until you're up to 2000 or 3000. Careful polishing with plastic polish or a very fine rubbing compound will get you the rest of the way. Done correctly, you will have a part that looks new again, with no scratches or fogging.

I found these breathers on M/T valve covers, and they look a LOT like your photo... But most of the M/T breathers I've ever seen look like this... or this...

Yes, this is maddening. I've been through it, have all the referenced kits.. Though it's marked 1/25 on the box, the Johan Lark wheelbase is about 10 scale inches longer than the AMT Avanti. The AMT '53 Stude has about the right wheelbase, is the same general design as the Lark, but it lacks the X-member the Avanti chassis has. The Lark coupe didn't use the X-member, but the convertible did. The second crossmember on the Avanti, the one under the firewall, is different from the Larks too. It can be cut out of the Johan Lark and swapped cleanly into one of the AMT chassis without too much trouble. If you use either of the AMT chassis, you'll need to widen the floor as well.

Though I don't recognize those specific parts, they appear to be similar to units made by Offenhauser, Stelling, Cal Custom, Speedway, Eelco, Moon, and many others. None of those I've looked at have what appear to be staggered/split fins in your photo, though. The Olds engine in the original Revell Stone-Woods-Cook Willys has 4 breathers that are close enough for a starting point.

Exactly. It's tiring hearing the legions of rebleaters who become vehicle structural and safety experts from reading one or two articles on the interdwerbs. The hysterical media, as usual, made the Pinto seem like a devil-possessed potential fiery deathtrap...but only to the stupid, the ignorant, and the easily terrified. Nothing much has changed. EDIT: Just for the record, I've owned several. The most fun was a thinly disguised race-car on the street, with dual sidedraft Webers on a 2.0 liter, headers, cam, lowered and stiffened suspension, and as much weight removed as was humanly possible. The other end of the spectrum was a 2.4 liter automatic wagon. It was a slow dog, but entirely adequate for a shop parts getter.

Very nice idea. Hmmmmmm...

You must be an early emissions-era British or Swedish car guy.

This was part of the OP's question: "I have never seen a supercharger like this, almost like a Latham but more modern." He's clearly asking what brand of blower it is, as in "Latham".

That kit's parts represent a S.C.o.T blower (not a great representation though), with a similar cast aluminum upper adapter manifold that uses sidedraft Rochester carbs, as I mentioned above. The 348 and 409 engines are visually identical externally, as far as block, heads, rocker covers, etc. Induction system and accessories could be different, however.

I missed this one. Cool project to bring back from the dead. Alan's 22jr is pretty sweet too.

No wonder I didn't recognize the engine. It's a Rolls Royce license-built Continental. Fascinating. I've never seen one before. Here's more on the bike... http://www.inmygarage.com/wild-ride-36-inch-hubless-wheels-meet-rolls-royce-aircraft-engine/ Wow. Twin big SU carbs...

Those centerless wheels are cool to see on a running vehicle. Pretty impractical, but it actually appears to move under its own power, and that's quite an accomplishment in its own right.

Yes...I got it wrong too. It's not an O-470 either, but it is an aircraft engine.