Ace-Garageguy

Thanks for your interest and input. Over the years, I've always learned more from articles or any technical sources if there was a "why" you do it some particular way rather than just a "how", so I generally tend to include the "whys" of what I'm trying to accomplish too.

The materials "resin" model car parts are made from belong to the thermoset plastic family, related to but different from epoxies and polyester. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermosetting_polymer Good quality resin parts are very stable over time. Poor quality parts made from old material, extremely cheap material, or sloppily mixed with little regard for exact mix-ratios (very common among some cowboys who think it doesn't matter) will exhibit shrinkage, warpage, and embrittlement over time. This is why we have to keep record samples of every thermoset plastic mix used on a structural aircraft repair, and usually send samples for testing by an independent lab prior to the aircraft being returned to service. I have a few bodies that are warping, but not as severely as yours. They've never been painted, but were just made with crapp, or poorly. The most recent one that came in is an early Falcon sedan delivery, as swaybacked as an old horse. My SOP these days, when I get a resin body that's something really unusual that I really want, is to immediately pull silicone molds from it to preserve the 3D information in the event something like this happens.

Yup. "Best Damm Garage in Town"

Looks great to me.

Is it 7/8 of 1/25 scale?

I like that a lot. Nice simple as-built working truck.

I know what it's based on, and I don't want to know any more.

Yuck, rather like beauty, is largely in the eye of the beholder...even though yuck usually defies accepted "good" design definitions. That said, I kinda like the see-through wheels...for a show car (I wouldn't run 'em at speed on anything I trusted my life to), and have been working on a full-scale vehicle design that uses them as a pretty integral part of the whole first impression...as well as looking into the possibility of assembling my own using CMS spun alloy rims.

Cool. I have a soft spot for bringing other folk's cast off trash back too, and using as much of the original material as possible. You have my attention, sir. Bear in mind that one thing a lot of Cobra models seem to share is much heavier rubber than the cars would actually run, especially on the street. The big-footed-puppy look is favored by a lot of full-scale kit-car builders as well, and I generally think it kinda spoils the proportions and look of lightness the cars have. I'd respectfully suggest looking at lotsa in-period shots of the real cars if you want to present this one as fairly correct.

Thanks Ray. I had to do it like that to maintain the proportions established in the mockup. They'll still need to go a little lower to get them as far down as the mockup has 'em, which is a big part of the "look" of the car. Another reason I did 'em that way is so that I can possibly replace the plastic rod with brass tube later. I always kinda wanted to do working lights in this one, and I finally found some really small LEDs that will work, even in the taillights, and wire fine enough to run inside a 1/16" brass tube. Did I say small? I'll use the brass support for the ground, and run the power wire inside it. That's the plan, anyway...but I have to get everything fitted dead-on with plastic first. I think I already also mentioned the mounting allows me to easily remove the lights to display the car with different rolling stock, and a tonneau instead of the windshield. Stripped and set-up for dry-lakes racing, in other words.

Thank you both, very much. Your appreciation means a lot.

Excellent proportions, and your design of the painted highlights perfectly accentuates the body lines.

Thank you. Most useful.

Yup...that's the first thing I thought when I saw them. 5-MPH wheels, tops.

Great stuff happening here. As I was around at the end of the Indy "roadster" period, I have a deep love for the cars. Though I've started several models of them, I've held off due to scale and fit problems like you're addressing. What you're doing here is inspiring, and I'm learning a lot. Thanks.

Interesting commentary on our times that a county with 1.25 million people can't support one real hobby shop. I wonder how many vape shops there are.

I believe the name of that is "We have your money, chump. Whistle."

I wish I had time to help you, but I do not. Good luck.

00.90 is the thread. You need an 00.90 nut. The link you posted is to METRIC sizes. 00.90 is not metric. Here are some other suppliers of miniature hardware: http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=628.0

Thanks. I like those. Lotsa surf music / rockabilly influence. Good tire-smoking stuff.

Does the car have to be in raceable condition? I don't have a lot of time, but I figure I could do the Thelma and Louise T-bird after it goes over the cliff. A wadded up ball of tinfoil ought to be a pretty accurate representation.

Just got a 404 when I tried to post a short paragraph in the "questions" section, with a link. One line included the word < s e l e c t >. I removed the word, and the post went through. Approx. 9:11 AM EST, Jan. 08, 2020

In years past, I used materials from Freeman Supply extensively for a wide variety of industrial prototype and marketing model presentation projects. The costs were reasonable, and materials were available in quantities down to a quart. They also have a bunch of instructional videos to help determine what various products do, and to better explain the processes. Never had an issue with "old" materials not performing because they'd been sitting on a shelf for 5 years, as sometimes happens with materials sourced in small quantities from hobbyist resellers. https://www.freemansupply.com/video.htm

Speaking of jokes...compare the relative sizes of the available kit and diecast "1/24 scale" TRs. I have 'em all, and it's appalling. Makes one wonder how far back the idiotic method of teaching math that common-core espouses was implemented.

That's more lawyer-speak CYA than anything else. The odds are that the concentrations of flammable vapors would never reach an explosive level during the painting of a model, but in the event some idiot overcomes the almost idiot-proof nature of these things and incinerates his cat, the sellers don't want to be held liable. If you want to be REALLY SURE though, make sure you use a sealed "explosion proof" motor of some sort...or as Brian suggested " a fan that keeps the fumes and motor separate from each other". Much has been discussed about this topic on this forum. Maybe Casey can steer you in the right direction.