Ace-Garageguy

Yes. There is a community of enthusiasts, some of whom make trick parts for the old machines (where I got my polyurethane drive-belt set) and also deal in parts and accessories. There are also plenty of broken and unloved machines to cannibalize for not a lot of coin...usually. From '47 until '77, it's believed that 300,000 to 400,000 of the first-generation machines were made, with running changes, but basically all pretty much the same.

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I own a vintage Unimat, as well as the full size Bridgeport mill clone, and a 16" lathe. The early Unimats are little jewels, no plastic whatsoever, Austrian made, and old-world craftsmanship. I'd wanted one since 1959, finally got one a couple years back. I bought one that looked like it had never been used, complete. It converts to a mill-drill with what comes in the fitted wooden case. But they're not cheap. Be prepared to spend around a grand for a creampuff, and an assortment of drive belts (the original rubber ones will be toast), a speed reducer, and a few cutting tools and quick-change tool post.

Very nice indeed. Particularly impressive is the fit of the nose/hood top/hood sides. Not many folks ever get one this tight. And how'd you do those great looking louvers?

Something rather like this has been a problem in the past, and frankly, one of the reasons I kinda quit posting tutorials or build threads. Yes, you can create the post in Word or something similar, and copy it to the forum, but it's kinda a PITA if you do a lot, and the photos often have to be resized or otherwise juggled to look like a non-moron put the post together. I'd also thought the problem was resolved a while back.

We're drifting afield here, but since you asked... https://www.zerohedge.com/news/2017-07-15/3-examples-show-how-common-core-destroying-math-education-america And as you're an educator in Minnesota... https://theminnesotasun.com/2019/06/25/with-common-core-standards-minnesota-reading-scores-slide-without-common-core-math-scores-best-in-the-us/

Wow. Just wow. That's a big tank. The Mitsu J2M3's pretty cool too. I've never seen one.

Yes sir. I still have a Heathkit oscilloscope and a couple of VOMs.

Thanks. I had a 'duh' moment earlier, not thinking through you could mill the square hole by simply changing the orientation of the top half of the thing on the mill table. Some days my brain just doesn't fire on all eight...

I'm not much into diecasts in general, but occasionally I'll spring for a damaged rebuildable of a subject that's not available in styrene, and that I have a particular fondness for. I'd been after a bullet-nose Stude for some time, and the Flintstone resin kit was disappointing. I haven't seen any of these damaged in years, so when this nice-but-undocumented 1/24 Danbury Mint '51 came up a while back, in the color we had when I was a kid, I jumped on it. It's the most I've paid for a diecast to date, but as I saw much of the USA and Canada looking backwards out that rear wraparound window, I figured why not.

I had one of these. Not solar powered, but it had a light sensitive cell that fired a transistor relay to make it stop and go using a flashlight beam. Mine was black. Built one of these about the same time... Hmmmmm...I think I may have posted these back at the beginning of the thread.... Yup. Oh well.

Did you cut the slot with a broach? Other ways to do it, of course, but that's what I would assume.

The Fiberfab Avenger was a sorta GT40 knockoff... Not quite the same...

Seriously cool project, looking great already.

That, sir, is pretty slick. I have some parts to mill over the next few days. Guess I'll add one of these to the job list. Thanks.

Very nice indeed, period perfect. It's striking how steering/posable front wheels enhance the immediate realism of just about any car or truck model.

Can't possibly be any worse than common-core.

Yeah, every time I've driven a police-package Crown Vic, I've been impressed. It's probably the best big front-engined sedan ever built. I had a total I bought for the engine and gearbox to swap into a Jag XJ-6, but the car disappeared before I could move it from the shop where it was stored.

The 1200 pounds of the Tesla S battery pack is hardly insignificant, and as Pete mentions, it's vulnerable to collision damage. It includes a 1/4" thick metal case for protection, which itself weighs 275 pounds. The model 3 battery pack, still pretty heavy, is significantly lighter, 1050 pounds, because much of the protective function of the S case design has been transferred to the chassis structure. It's still made up of over 4,400 individual cells. By comparison, 20 gallons of gasoline, at about 6 pounds per gallon, weigh 120 pounds. An average tank isn't more than 30 pounds more, for a comparable fuel-and-tank weight of much less than 200 pounds. Component layout of the model 3 is really very simple. PS: The internet is awash in images of every conceivable electric vehicle and hybrid powertrain. Just as with IC-powered vehicles, if you understand how the things work, making sense of the photos and various components isn't difficult. For instance, this model borrows heavily from the twin-turbine/battery powered hybrid Jaguar C-X75 prototype...

^^^ ^^^ Being your basic grumpy old SOB, I was all set to not like the Live Lounge Allstars. Glad I watched it anyway. Nice piece of work.

Snowball's chance. But like I said, I think a widebody Superbird built as though it could actually function would be a great project. Also, we all know I never finish anything.

Very nice. That's something I've been wanting to do for a long time. Now I can save myself the effort, and just look at yours.

Were you driving the stealth Vic?

Some serious goodness going on here. The fluid lines on the steering rack, the coil-overs, and the scale-thickness and vented/drilled brake rotors really pump up the realism. Nice work taking the time and making the effort to dial in the stance dead-on early in the game, too. I see a lot of otherwise great models spoiled because the stance ends up dorky, after being rushed and slopped together during the mockup phase.

Very clean work, beautiful paint. And your detail painting/wash of the underside greasy bits is very convincing, completely overcomes the toy-look with a highly realistic effect. Most inspiring.