Ace-Garageguy

and musty books

And here's one that's REALLY impressive...

full of lawyers

Here's a couple of threads with a little scratchin' going on...

Glad you think it's an idea you can use. The grippers on the hood itself are a little large and klugey, as they were proof-of-concept, just to see if the idea would work like I thought it would. With more care, they could be made considerably smaller...not quite appearing in-scale, but less obtrusive. Still, they don't show when the car is assembled, or unless the hood is upside-down, and the flanges on the body that DO show can easily (and correctly) represent panels added to the body shell that would carry 1/4 turn (Dzus) fastener receptacles.

as gorilla toys

Looks good, definitely a different color and surface from silver paint. One assumes it's been discontinued because either 1) not enough people are buying it to continue production or 2) they think they can produce something "just as good" cheaper. Obviously not. So is the state of the world.

inflated body parts

and designer shoes

Maybe it's the very rare Franischilling Firehunk 347. Lots of things preclude it from being an accurate model of anything else. Supposedly a Chrysler Corp LA. It ain't. Notice the exhaust ports on an LA...like a smallblock Chebby: The kit engine has even exhaust port spacing.

for curvy hippopotami

, airplanes to sky

Tanks again. PS. Looks like I'm seeing the old Revell version listed as 1/90, not 1/80 as I posted. Plenty close enough to HO if it is. I need to research that one more, as I can get'em pretty cheap at the moment.

or dog polish

Seems as I recall a real DC-3 is covered in rivets too. I'll look into Roco / Minitanks. Tanks.

Recently I've been doing a lot of model work that requires precisely located holes. Sometimes, being even a few thousandths of an inch off from where a hole needs to be can adversely affect a model's outcome. For this reason, depending on the accuracy required and the size of the hole, I'll often drill a pilot hole under-size, and if the center has drifted, I'll move it back into place with a tiny file, then re-bore it with the final size bit. It's also sometimes necessary to enlarge a molded-in opening in a part, where conventional needle files are too big. I find that oxy-acetylene welding torch tip-cleaner files work beautifully for this. They're made of material that's hard enough to hold up to styrene indefinitely. The one on my model bench is a cheap Chinese piece, with 13 diameters ranging from .018" up to .069".

Yeah, something like that. AND...anybody have any insight as to how good or bad the Revell 1/80 DC-3 is? Probably close enough to look OK in the foreground of an HO scale scene...1/87.

with Cheese Whiz

Very interesting. I like the proportions. A lot. Looks like an insane drag truck, or an equally wild LSR thingy. Pretty kool.

Obviously, wretched excess in questionable taste is nothing new.

The pic I have saved from the most reliable source I've come across so far shows this to be the right '53 green for light trucks...

How about now?

Thanks, Mark. I'm quite ignorant when it comes to most Johan kits, so your info is much appreciated.

Looking through some web shots, these two look closest to what I've seen on "original" engines. The green is Model A, B ('32 & '33-4 with 4-cylinder engines), early flathead V8 through '41/'42. The blue is flathead V8 '41-'48

said the skeptic