Ace-Garageguy

I know at least one builder who's done very respectable engine-turning in 1/24-1/25 by hand, using a sharpened eraser. Very tedious, but possible.

Never a shortage of greedtards. There are two more listed for a somewhat more reasonable $100 or so. Funny, many of the other Foose kits are up for less than 20 bucks.

Good looking model. Actually, there were a few more requirements. The cars, sanctioned under "FIA Group 7", were supposed to be "sports cars" and as such, also had to have opening doors, self-starters, lights, and originally, a spare wheel/tire (the front lights and spare tire rules were dropped), and run on pump-gas. There was also a minimum weight of somewhere around 1500 pounds, and safety regs required a roll bar and split braking system. Everything else was, as you say, unlimited, and that's why we saw such wild things as the "sucker" Chaparral. Truly the golden age of motorsports.

The closer I get to dying of old age, the less interest I have in spending any of my remaining time in traction in the hospital. I won't even ride my little 600 Cow in traffic anymore. I don't know if I've become more of a coward or just smarter.

ALL the white "canopy" glues are chemically the same as "Elmer's" white glue...PVA, which is polyvinyl-acetate. They ALL should be white, of uniform viscosity with no clumps, and they ALL dry clear. They are ALL water-soluble before they dry, and what YOU have is some that's settled and almost dried out, probably from sitting on the shelf for years. The "clear" stuff you see is mostly water that's separated. You SHOULD be able to stir it and shake it back into an even consistency, possibly needing to add a few drops of water. My particular go-to is this:

Nope, no, unh-unh, not buyin' it. They had this ancient technology called "drawing" and "scale drawing". I know it seems pretty hard to believe, but they used these tools called "pencils" and "pens" and "paper", and these tricks called "measuring" and "perspective". I've used them myself. And believe it or not, they can show you just exactly what something will look like before you build it. Not having computers is no excuse for building ugly.

Thanks for the pix. Lookit that big beautiful Yoder power hammer. I'm in love.

It can be a real PITA to buy seals to rebuild old hydraulics. There's an old-school hydraulic shop near me that usually, miraculously, has what I need in NOS on the shelf...often 40 or more years old. You have to know the dimensions, obviously, plus the profile and material. Barring that, catalogs like this are where I usually turn (IF you can find aftermarket "kits" that don't come directly from the seal manufacturers, you always run the risk that the specs weren't followed closely enough by whoever put the package together; almost every aftermarket part or assembly I come across these days has a deficiency of some kind in design or materials). http://www.skf.com/binary/68-300492/Hydraulic-seals---12393_2-EN.pdf EDIT: Check 1/4 down this page for a pump rebuild kit: https://www.convertibletopguys.com/convertible/1734/Hydraulic-Cylinders-Motor-Pumps-Hose-Sets#hydraulics EDIT 2 : Mustang Barn / Glazier Nolan appears to have CYLINDER rebuild kits under pt.# G12153...but I don't know if this is still a good number.

HOLY CRAMOLEY !!! Three hundred bucks a gallon? Yeah, THAT would put a little crimp in my travel plans.

Glad you brought up Luigi Colani. I've been a fan of his work for decades. Probably the most "original" designer out there. Not terribly practical in a lot of cases, but certainly thought-provoking and inspiring:

While you're watching Indy, or cooking out, or sitting by the pool with a nice cold beer, or fighting crowds at the countless sales, please stop for a moment to remember those who gave everything for the concept of freedom

And then there's "a cow can tell the difference between grain and chaff, but it's still a cow".

I don't know how you want to define "coachbuilt", but this is entirely my original work. Bring on the"expert" criticism. I can hardly wait. 1:10 scale model: Full scale mockup under construction:

Hey y'all...watch this.

Sounds like you're a pretty nice guy too.

I think that's a lot of the post-modern SOP in a nutshell.

Pretty good series, in glorious black-and-white. Quite a few episodes are on YouTube now, clean clear uploads. It's low key, often kinda sad. Sorta like reality.

And so should it be in the rest of the world...but anyone who's the least bit aware will know that this is not always the case, even in this country, and the idea has been eroding for decades.

But wait...there's MORE !!!

The CORRECT type. Internet "experts" notwithstanding, there are several types of "hydraulic" fluid. and NOT ALL FLUID IS COMPATIBLE WITH ALL SEALS. Being a "mix" has nothing to do with anything, unless part of the mixture is a type of fluid that destroys the seals in the system. This is why engineers go to the trouble of writing specifications for appropriate fluids in various "hydraulic" applications...from car and aviation braking systems, to heavy machinery. USE WHAT THE OEM DOCUMENTATION SPECIFIES, and disregard opinions and hearsay.

Type F. Yes.