Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Ace-Garageguy

Members
  • Posts

    38,259
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Ace-Garageguy

  1. According to the info at the bottom of the main page here and his profile page, he's online now (11:00 AM EST Thursday)...though his last post was Monday morning. Do you have a link to the FB page?
  2. By far, the most cost-effective way to improve the appearance of a Juke...
  3. It gives me the impression that it's angry it's so small, and is really trying hard to look tough.
  4. No...though it's based on the general appearance of some early turbines. It's a mashup of several turbine-looking parts and kinda random things stuck on to make it more visually interesting. I've done a considerable amount of research into this. Thread here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/110303-revells-old-dream-car-turbine-engine-what-is-it/
  5. You must be one of the last people on the planet who remember the Deora used the '60 Ford wagon upper tailgate for the front upper door and windshield. Center height (there is a notch in the Deora "glass", and this height is to the bottom of the notch) : .965" Corner to corner, top: 2.30" Corner to corner, bottom: 2.55" Side, straight part next to the pillar, height: .76"
  6. I seem to remember now that you have been thinking along these lines for a while. I ran up on a couple of walls, but I think I have a plan to bring this one home finally. Thanks for the interest. I should have bought some carbon and Kevlar decal material at the ACME meet this past weekend. There was a vendor there who had some spectacular Corvette C7R bodies in all-carbon, and I kept thinking "I know I need some of this stuff but I can't remember what for". Duh.
  7. One of its WW II predecessors is occasionally available in a 1/24 resin kit... And there's a later M35 in paper, 1/25... There is also an M925 3D model that some enterprising young man could doubtless convert to STL files and have it 3D-printed... http://www.turbosquid.com/3d-models/army-m925-desert-3d-model/765171
  8. The $100,000 per year (each) car-naming team got one letter in the name wrong. It shoulda been either Puke or Joke.
  9. Yeah...I like your design SO much I was looking around for a kit to do it in scale. They're up there, but I might have to spring for it at some point. Honestly, if I had the funds, I'd want to build that car in full scale...with you credited as the designer, naturally. Done right, it's a sure Riddler contender, no doubt about it. It's rare that a design works so well, with everything so perfectly proportioned and well integrated. The curved tempered side glass is the only thing that would be particularly difficult to do in 1:1...but I know one company that could do it.
  10. THAT IS GORGEOUS !!!
  11. Onlookers also often don't like GOOD restyling work simply because it's just not what they're used to seeing. Harry's cleanup of the tail of the old Caddy is an example (I LIKE Harry's version) of something being BETTER, but being rejected initially because it's not what we expect. I never cared for the taillight and rear fender treatment on that particular car from the factory, but it was done during a period when "aircraft elements" were being tacked on to cars where they often had no natural belonging. That rear fender profile is intended to mimic the vertical tail of an airplane. I never thought it looked good, and Harry's re-work looks a LOT better to my eye (as does the cleaner line he's given to the quarter glass), but when I FIRST saw it, it didn't immediately resister how much better it was because it had lost the initial 'Cadillac-ness' my mind was made up for.
  12. 10:01 PM EST. I'm getting this when I try to edit a comment I made only 2 or three minutes earlier: "This comment can no longer be edited. It may have been moved or deleted, or too much time may have passed since it was posted for it ti be edited." This comment can no longer be edited. It may have been moved or deleted, or too much time may have passed since it was posted for it to be edited.OK
  13. It's not necessary to be a "professional stylist" to have a feel for proportion and line, and rather a LOT of cars designed these days look to be put together by committees comprised of the PC number of genders and ethnicities rather than by a group selected for talent. There always have been and always will be turds of cars designed by "professionals". Being a "professional" anything simply means you showed up for class, made barely passing grades, and got hired to do the work. It does NOT mean you're particularly GOOD at doing the work. And often, the more "professional stylists" you have working on one design, the more horrible it is. Granted, not a lot of restyling attempts are particularly successful, but that's because of a lack of talent and skill on the part of the person doing the re-styling...NOT because of a lack of "professional" certification.
  14. Very interesting reading. Thanks for the link.
  15. No argument there sir. Definitely NOT within my sphere of knowledge. Anyway, I hadn't intended to get on a big digression thing that takes away from Ray's Staggerwing build, but just to show some possibilities for doing a "spinning" prop. Snake's idea of putting a little electric motor in the thing to REALLY spin it would be pretty cool too. There are lots of tiny DC motors available now for things like miniature helos and drones, so it's entirely do-able.
  16. They look pretty good to me too, but some of the ones using clear plastic discs, as Snake recommends, look very good too. A google image search for "model prop blur" brings up a lot of pictures of various attempts at getting the effect, with varying degrees of success. I think this is about the best of the best I've seen so far...and here's how to do it... http://gregers.fr.yuku.com/topic/11537/Prop-blur-tutorial-Picture-heavy#.WCti1C0rKM8
  17. Well, you can read the science and do the math (it's provable, and particularly noticeable at dusk or dark, where a source of illumination is operating at close to the same frequency as the sampling rate of the human eye / brain system...and I DON'T mean a strobe) but if you'd prefer to stick to your opinion, s'OK by me. But I've SEEN it....without blinking fast. I've seen the spokes on car wheels in the lane next to me appear to stop as well. Frankly, I had a hard time believing I was actually seeing what I was seeing...which is what got me going down the research rabbit-hole many years ago as to the 'sampling rate' of human optical processing. But hey...maybe I'm wired differently than you... Far as your statement that "Once you understand what "prop blur" is, it's completely illogical to try to model it (or even paint it on canvas IMHO)", I have to disagree with that on purely aesthetic grounds. To me, these aircraft would look pretty ridiculous with stopped prop blades, or nothing there at all. But that's just my totally subjective personal opinion, no science about it.
  18. No...I only use CA for edge-filling, reinforcing glued joints that don't show, and making weld-fillets on roll cages...and then I use the thick LocTite stuff. But it sounds like calligraphy pens would be great for applying liquid styrene glue too. The capillary-action applicators like the one from Flex-I-File work very well, but they tend to clog and can be almost impossible to clean. Calligraphy pens might be a good idea for an easily-cleaned and 100% reliable replacement tool.
  19. Acetone removes it, but be sure your handle isn't a material that will also be dissolved. Acetone attacks styrene, for instance, so beware.
  20. Very nice, clean, and one we hardly ever see built up. This makes me want to dig the one out that I bought just for the engine, and build it just as it is.
  21. I like it.
  22. While that's generally true, due to the image-sampling rate of the human eye / brain system (contrary to popular belief, we don't see in a continuous 'stream') and variations in what's known as "persistence of vision" (the effect that makes moving cinema images appear to run together smoothly), some individuals CAN see the "prop blur" effect in reality, depending on conditions and prop RPM. It's also true that most people today have never seen a prop-driven airplane in anything other than a photograph anyway, so if your intent is to play to a typical audience (or even an aviation enthusiast who's seen a LOT of photos), some of the prop-blur effects for models look pretty good. There's plenty of info on the web as to how to model various effects, and the propblur.com people will even send you ONE FREE in the scale of your choice to experiment with. PS. This is a 1/48 photo-etched "propblur.com" prop on a Spirit of St. Louis model. I think it looks pretty good too.
×
×
  • Create New...