Ace-Garageguy

Appreciate the heads-up on the '59 tri-power carbs and the availability of a really good start for this manifold in the later '57 kits. I've been kinda wanting to snag at least one of the open-door '57s, so now I know one issue has a smallblock 6X1 setup and one has the fuelie manifold. I guess I'll have to spring for a couple...probably an early-issue coupe and a late-issue Nomad. Turns out I have the '59 on the shelf too, so I'll be having a look at those carbs later this PM. I love this site...and people who take the time to really help, and know what they're talking about.

Greg, I've been studying pix of the trees in the various incarnations of this kit, and so far, at least one variation appears to have a 6X1 setup and manifold rather than the old fulie rig. Any insight there?

I have found the best way to open panels is by scribing repeatedly multiple times, and using the PE razor saw (.007" thick) or a standard razor saw (.010" thick) as necessary for the longer lines, plus a sharp X-acto for the corners. Yes, it takes some patience, but this one was done relatively quickly (you see a couple of slips with the tool evident) and fits back in the opening quite nicely.

You might also want to read entirely through this thread...the "thread" method is discussed.

Brass nuts & screws down to 000-120 (.034" or about .8mm), threaded rod down to 0000-160 (.021" or about .53mm) Stainleess screws and nuts down to 0000-160 and tools: http://jimorrisco.com/index.php Miniature taps http://www.newmantools.com/taps/micro.htm

The Man A Fre manifold in question (on the right in the first photo) with small-flange Rochester 2G series carbs, as noted by Dennis Lacy. The bare manifold is very similar to Greg's FI lower half. Next question: which kit has a good Rochester 2GC in it? Aftermarket? Would be kinda nice to make the manifold fit an existing carb that's not a simplified blob.

Works for me. As does this.

Definitely interested in copying it, and would be happy to do a careful job of "harvesting" as part of the deal, returning the original and several copies to you of course. I have a pile of unusual period parts I'm getting around to doing, so this one could very possibly supply the tipping-point where I actually spring for some more silicone and casting resin.

Similar content, all of which I scanned through before posting this particular article, which I believe includes additional possibly useful information on "how to". Some of the older links over there are also broken. I probably should have just posted this particular article at the end of the old thread, rather than starting a new one here.

Is that an order, or merely a suggestion?

Pretty wild. I like how you think.

Common sense. Not so common.

So sorry if you don't find anything of any value here. I'm fully aware it's an old article, I'm fully aware many people already know the guy's work, and I looked at several other posts about him on the forum to get an idea of whether there was any NEW information in this article that might be helpful to people making dioramas and photographing them. I failed to see this article posted earlier. Please post a link to the particular thread, if you'd be so kind. I sincerely apologize if that is in any way offensive. Apparently it is. I guess EVERYBODY already knows EVERYTHING about how the guy gets his results.

They won't make clean cuts, like opening doors or that sort of thing, 'cause they melt too much of the surrounding plastic. And if you're just doing general cutting, something like a razor saw is a much better tool.

Thanks for getting that info back up so fast, Chris. I'll copy it to my own drive this time. It's nice to be able to quickly look some dimension up without having to do the arithmetic every single time. Thanks again.

Very old thread, I know...but MicroNitro.net is gone. Anybodt have any idea if there's anyone else currently making this size PE dragster wires? I have some of the Herb Deeks 15" Borrani wire center conversion kits for plastic rims, but the diameter is too small to work for the 17" dragster wires I need. And yes, I know I can lace my own, but at the moment I have more money than free time, so if I can buy some, I'll go that route.

I agree, but the article does have some thought-provoking information on how he achieves his startling realism. A lot of diorama builders might benefit from some of his ideas.

She's always reminded me of Nemo's Nautilus in the film The League of extraordinary Gentlemen.

https://fstoppers.com/bts/model-maker-turns-toy-cars-nostalgic-life-images-200-point-and-shoot-867

Priceless.

I see quite a difference in promoting a film made about Pearl Harbor, or models apparently depicting military aircraft as they would have appeared during the attack, and using the incident to get attention for or advertise products like soft drinks and mattresses. Kinda like having an August 6 promotion on Hiroshima Special-Edition Glow in the Dark Swatches.

Chris...this is a GREAT reference, but it looks like all the pix have disappeared.

I'd think it would be pretty straightforward. Make a flat plate to replace the timing cover. Make the toothed drive pulleys / sprockets out of flat styrene too, or maybe use a watch gear for the large upper one. Don't worry about the teeth on the sprockets / pulleys, as they're so small as to be too small to notice in 1/25 scale. Use a strip of tape for the belt. Then you'll have to get a water pump that will straddle the whole assembly. Basically, just make what you see.

Super work on the X-member and rear crossmember swap. I've seen a few 1:1 cars built exactly this way...also with '34 X-members swapped into A frames for V8 power. It's tough to get really pleasing proportions with that front end setup, but if anybody can pull it off, I'd bet on you.

Hokay...here's my dilemma. I have to lay razor-edge scallops on this fuselage with all the ribbing. I've tried most of the tapes on the market, and even if carefully burnished down, they all have lifted just enough to get a fuzzy line in places. That's why I'm leaning towards a liquid mask. Anybody have any better ideas?