Ace-Garageguy

A few years back some numbnutz lost a brand new washing machine out of the back of his truck, following car crashed into it, fool who lost it just kept going. I think there was a fatality involved. Police traced the paperwork on the washer to the store where it was purchased, got the buyer's name, and got him.

The radiator cap hole in a '32 grille shell was / is frequently filled to clean up the car's appearance. It's relocated as so...a simple modification for any competent radiator shop.

Very evocative atmosphere piece. Right proportions, stance, parts, overall look. Very nice.

Hmmmm. Seems to have stayed pretty much on-target to me, with some additional useful info as to what OTHER engines could be used to accurately portray the car in question, plus some ideas as to sourcing a correct one, or modifying / making one that's correct. What am I missing? (I obviously missed the rule that said ONLY THE 318 POLY ENGINE IS ALLOWED TO BE MENTIONED.)

I usually just take it easy for a day or three and it passes, but it's my own fault in large measure. I've let myself gain about 30 pounds, which is causing additional strain. I've also not been exercising much lately, and did a 10-day driving trip recently...sitting for hours on end. Not good. It'll get better. Just need to get over the hump to feeling well enough to start the exercise, and lose some weight.

Ongoing for more than 2 weeks now...my back is so bad I haven't been able to work, walk, or even sit at the computer doing paperwork or research for more than a few minutes at a time, much less any modeling. I've had chronic back problems most of my adult life, but this is the worst episode in over 30 years. It's driving me nuts being almost completely unproductive.

First Confederate ironclad ship CSS Virginia, built on the hull and engines of the former Merrimack. One of the two ironclads, the other being the Union ship Monitor, in the US Civil War Battle of Hampton Roads.

Excellent reference. Thread HERE: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/116103-pocher-bugatti-type-50-coupé-de-ville-a-resurrection/ He says specifically " This is almost a toy for me now, and inadequate for a precise job" So there you go.

That's a good method, JUST LIKE doing a 1:1, but 1) it's a sedan, not a 5-window like the OP asked for and 2) it's WAY more complicated than is necessary in scale, and requires vastly more precise cuts going in several different directions. Yeah, it WILL work beautifully, and take somewhat longer to get everything dead-on, with rather more chances to bugger your body if you're not already an accomplished hacker. But carry on. PS. I guess you're directing Jantrix to the method to use on the A-pillars, which is fine...but also bear in mind that the method shown on TRAK at the rear of the chop is used to keep the rear window stock-height and avoid the mail-slot look. That's also possible on the 5-window, but again, it's a lot more work. not particularly hard, just requires a higher degree of presicion...as do the A-pillar mods shown there.

X2

Pretty much. It isn't accurately representative of ANY real engine. Must have been one of those knowledge-is-irrelevant design procedures.

You WILL beat it, Harry. Positive waves.

Just for reference, I can't find my own '32 chop tutorial I did years back, but the below shots show doing a '34, using the alternate stretched-roof method. Exactly the same on a '32 5W, but less. 1) Cut it clean and square. 2) Again, come STRAIGHT DOWN on the B pillars. you'll see exactly what you need to do to get alignment of the pillars restored. On the '32 you can get away with simply re-sculpting the C pillars, but on this '34 we have to lengthen the roof behind the B pillars 3) Make your forward cut, align the A pillars, and fill the gaps. 4) Gaps filled. Sculpt the fill material to closely match the roof contours. 5) Voila. As all of the pictures illustrate, it's important to watch the "flow" of the lines, like the drip rails, as you get everything going back together. Though these details can be carved in and shaped later, in my own experience, it's easier to take a little more time getting perfectly aligned panels early on, rather than correct with filler later.

It's pretty straightforward on a model, and a LOT easier than doing it on a real car...but as Art says, the principle is the same. This one is AMT, but the Revell body works exactly the same way. It's been cut approximately 3 scale inches. Come STRAIGHT DOWN on the B-pillar and let the A and C pillars fall where they may. There's enough meat on the C pillars to sculpt them into submission and finish with filler. The A pillars are what take some additional massaging. To get them to line up, just lean the upper portion forward a tad, and lean the lower portion back to get them to align again, in a straight line. I'm often able to bend them cold, but it's a little nerve-wracking waiting for the "snap". A saw-cut in the inside upper and outside lower corners makes it easier. Some minor trimming and fitting will be required, naturally. I ALWAYS f'glass the insides of the joints to give them sufficient strength to sand and polish later on, and fill any remaining gaps from less-than-perfect cuts with a slurry of Cabosil and epoxy. Then you just re-scribe your door cut-lines and finish as usual for any decent quality bodywork. Some people tend to get carried away doing this and make it MUCH harder than it really is, usually with disastrous results. Apply the KISS theory rigorously, and it's a piece of cake.

...Yeah, now that I look closer, the valve covers on the kit engine are entirely wrong for the "A" engine 318. And now that I think of it, I'm pretty sure this discrepancy has been addressed here fairly recently...somebody wanting the get a correct "A" engine to build this car.

Here's another one...

There's at least one "how to" thread on this board too.

For the Belvedere (which the AMT kit represents) it would have to be a single-carb 318, though in the Fury a dual 4-bbl 318 could also be had, as well as a 350 with the ill-fated Bendix electronic fuel injection. If I remember right, the '58 318 was an "A" engine, while the '58 350 was the first iteration of the "B" engine.

These can look really good too, depending on the application. They can also be stripped and painted, or narrowed to represent older steel-spoke wires.

Not necessarily. Depends on the particular facility, the location, other factors. Mostly-automated process areas often don't need to be air-conditioned as long as there's sufficient ventilation to prevent heat build-up, and many processes generate sufficient heat so that winter environmental heating can be minimized as well. Modern injection-molding typically requires the molds to be internally heated prior to injection of the plastic, and then internally cooled before removal of the parts. The equipment that performs the heating and cooling cycles is usually automated and should ideally be provided with temperature probes and logic that override any "set" timing cycle. Apparently this was not the case for the kit run being discussed here. Several technologies are available to manage this. Interesting article here: http://www.plasticsmachinerymagazine.com/technology/molds-tooling/rapid-mold-heating-cooling-technology-on-cutting-edge.html And another one: http://www.ptonline.com/articles/hot-cold-thermal-cycling-of-injection-molds-heats-up Even if the plant is old and using dark-ages tech, rational process-management would dictate that the tools not be opened and parts de-molded above a specified mold temperature, even if the process was entirely performed by semi-skilled humans. If it's hotter in the plant on a particular day and the mold takes longer to cool to the required temperature, all the operator has to do is look at the temperature readout on the MOLD (assuming there IS one) to know if it's safe to de-mold without warping of the product.

While researching all things stock Henry J for an upcoming build, I found this site of bunches of pix of the little cars, in various states of rot, repair, running, restoration and racing. Hope it will be of value to someone. http://www.henryjcars.com/choose.html

I bought the repop of this kit fairly recently. It'll be a couple days before I can dig mine out and shoot it.

Perfect.