Ace-Garageguy

Do yourselves a favor and get a GOOD filtration system for your drinking water. And kinda try to limit or eliminate the chemicals and drugs you put down the drains.

Great looking models of vehicles we rarely see stateside. Nice stuff. (I'd love to have any one of them in 1:1 for a shop truck, too.)

X2

Beautiful upgrade of a not-too-exciting promo. Shows what a fine model can be made from something relatively simple, with skill and effort. Very nice, sir.

But don't take MY word for it. Here's an interesting article that just might make you think twice next time before you flush or pour something down the drain. There's a fair bit of disagreement and "we just don't know" about how all these things, even in trace amounts, may interact to pose health risks. http://www.scientificamerican.com/article/birth-control-in-water-supply/

Here's the deal with that. Have you ever gotten Drano on your skin? Burns like the devil, right? OK, you want to put that in the sewer. Fine and dandy. You assume that by the time the water gets back to you through the normal water cycle on the planet (it boggles the mind the number of people who don't realize that EVERY drop of water you drink was somebody's pee at one time...and ALL the water on the planet gets recycled...there ain't any new water being made...) it'll be all nice and clean. So let's just shorten the water cycle. Say you have a well and a septic tank. Do you really want to dump something that burns your skin into the septic tank and take the chance it MIGHT get into the aquifer your well draws from and end up coming out the tap? Probably not. Now let's suppose you live near a river that supplies your drinking water. The town just above yours on the river allows folks to dump drain cleaner in the water. Then a mile or two down stream, your city has its own water intake from the same river...drain cleaner and all. And now think about this. How many of you KNOW for sure that your municipal water supply is filtered and treated to remove the active ingredients in drain cleaner? How much is too much? Do you have any idea how the water treatment facility works? Do you know what chemicals are tested for? Do you ever even read your municipal water reports? See, the thing is, just because it's OK legally to dump something in the water system doesn't mean it's really smart to do it if you look at the big, long-term picture. The government doesn't really know whether it's OK to dump a lot of the stuff we dump constantly. Remember how the government gets things wrong sometimes? Ever hear of that? We're ingesting all kinds of things in our water now that may not be removed by conventional water-treatment processes, from antibiotics to the female hormone estrogen...all that stuff that gets "innocently" dumped or flushed down the drain. So why not just dump some more, right? Have a nice day.

That looks like the die-cast Welly 1/26 (yes, 1/26) scale model available on Ebay for $15+. The scale isn't going to be a problem for a 1/25 model. You'll never notice the difference.

If you've been using it to strip paint, just strain it through a paint filter and put it back in the container it came in for use later. If you need to get rid of it, refer to this link to the MSD (material safety data) for the specific chemical makeup, and dispose if it in strict accordance with your local laws concerning proper disposal of the material as described. https://www.hsolc.org/sites/default/files/documents-forms/public/english/castrol-super-clean-tough-task.pdf NOTE: The product is sold as a concrete cleaner, so it's obviously considered safe to dispose of relatively small amounts of it, well diluted with water, into the storm drains. It's really not the right thing to do if you care about the planet, but hey...some toxic waste disposal companies just take drums of material out to counties where there are no EPA guys looking, and dump or open-air burn the stuff. If you CARE about doing the right thing, look into the applicable Federal EPA regs for disposal.

I had no idea. Neat little car, looks like a fun series of books.

Thank you sir. I'll be saving that one.

Aha! Great idea. I've been putting off learning BMF in particular because it was quite hard for me to see exactly where to cut. I've also been making scallop-masking stencils lately, having the same problem. Yup. I'll be gittin' one of these.

Me too, soon as my next check clears in a day or three. Come on people. Harry is our friend. We need to help him.

I was out of work myself for almost 6 weeks and my funds are somewhat depleted. Soon as my next check clears in a couple days, I'm in. PLEASE...everyone send as much as you can. As has already been said, just a few bucks if that's all you can really spare. Even a little will make a difference. Harry is our friend. He needs our help. Bob put it very well above: "How would you want to be treated if you were in these circumstances?"

I've also had good luck with the thickened Loctite products lasting much longer after being opened than the 'regular' little-tube CA adhesives, but in my experience, the performance does degrade over time.

And this remark helps the experience people have here on the forum exactly how? It's even more useless than your "i think most CA type glues are anaerobic" remark, founded on no actual factual information whatsoever. I do wonder why you seem to have the need to make these sideways personal attacks. In case you haven't heard, Harry has quite enough to deal with without having to get involved with chimps throwing poo around, so why don't you just get over it and try acting like an adult. YOU are the one who ALWAYS starts in on the personal remarks and comments calculated to get a rise out of people, and it really needs to stop.

My remark wasn't directed specifically at you, sir. It was the all inclusive "you", meaning everyone with enough interest in the topic to be reading the thread. I do hear a lot of references here and there as to how "lucky" someone is to have this or that skill. Skill development and luck only go together as far as being God-given the talent to be able to develop a particular skill...and in that, we're not all equal. There are many things I will never be able to become proficient at, no matter how hard I try, because I just don't have the particular talent that's necessary. On the flip side of that, I'm just as guilty of being unable to find the time to develop the skills that would let me develop printable files for 3D modeling. But it isn't really about being able to "find the time" either. We all find the time to do the things we really want to do most, whether we admit it to ourselves or not. In my own case, it's a matter of not prioritizing some things high enough on the life-list to get them done...pure and simple. Choices.

I'd tend to say it's not so much having "luck" as it is having the desire and putting forth the effort to learn the skills. If you're not intimidated by the computer or learning new things, you CAN learn CAD. Google SketchUp is a simplified FREE 3D modeling program that's FREE for you to download and learn for FREE. Did I mention it's FREE? It's a perfect introduction to preparing the kinds of drawings that can be converted to doing 3D printing, and everything you will learn in SketchUp will transfer to other CAD programs you might like to get into later. http://www.sketchup.com/

Hmmm. I'm sorry Carl. I really don't understand the question. Let me do some more reading about AdBlock and get back to you. EDIT: My understanding at this time is that it's probably legalese boilerplate for a CYA scenario getting specific permission to "read and change" data because that's how it smells an ad, by reading data, and blocks an ad from displaying on your computer, by changing data. In effect, you're simply giving AdBlock specific permission to do what it does, so you can't sue AdBlock for doing what it does. I've been running AdBlock for quite a while with no problems of any kind, no lost data, no changes I've been aware of...so that's all I have for you for now. PS. One additional thing I CAN tell you is that AdBlock disrupts functionality of some sites. They refuse to allow access to their content if you have AdBlock enabled and try to force you to make exceptions to let their carp ads play. No problem for me...I just go to another site to get the same info.

Since the topic isn't locked, all we have to do to keep it at the top of the list is to add a post when it drops too far down the page.

Yeah. Just put up a response based on ignorance, misunderstanding, or pure uninformed conjecture. Some adult will come along and clean up the mess.

Actually, no. "Anerobic" means "in the absence of air". CA WILL cure in air, because of the moisture present. Loctite's thread-lockers are all true anerobic adhesives. CA is not. But don't take MY word for it. From the IPMS / Stockholm site: "A common source of confusion is mixing up CA glue with Locktite thread locking glue. The main reason for this seems to be historical. The Loctite brand that initially produced the thread locking glue became for many users synonymous with that type of glue. Nowadays, Loctite has an entire variety of glue products in its range, CA glue among them. The main difference between the two types is in the medium activating the bonding reaction. In the thread locking glue, polymerisation starts in the absence of oxygene (air), while CA bonds with the aid of humidity. How it WorksThe cyanoacrylate glue hardens very quickly when trapped between two surfaces. The reaction is caused by the condensed water vapour on the surfaces (namely the hydroxyl ions in water). The water comes from the surrounding air, so obviously the air humidity is a factor that may affect bonding capabilities, or cause them to differ from application to application. The curing reaction starts at the surface of the bonded material and develops towards the centre of the bond. Because of this, thick seams or large blobs of glue may harden less satisfactorily than surface-to-surface bonds with good fit. In a thick blob of glue, a polymerisation reaction may stop before it reaches the centre of the blob. A rule of thumb is that seams thicker than 0,25 mm should be avoided. Thick seams will also take longer time to cure. The described relation between seam width and curing time can be used to advantage: a thick superglue-filled seam will allow adjustment of the parts, but will bond instantly and definitely when they are pressed together, so that the gap decreases below 0,25 mm. Pressing the parts harder against each other will make the glue cure instantly."

That's a good looking engine. I seem to recall that only the BRE race-version had the Webers, but I could be wrong. Another Weber-equipped in line is the Mopar slant-six engine in the old AMT XR6 double kit...though it's a pushrod engine, not an OHC.

One thing anti-virus users often seem to overlook...your AV program is only good if it's updated with new "definitions" frequently. For all intents and purposes, think of rooms full of computer geeks constantly looking for new strings of code that identify new malicious web presences, and these are what your AV program gets when it "updates"...the identifying bits of code that will alert it to a contaminated site or app. Each AV provider has its own army of geeks looking for stuff constantly, and how good they are, and how often your AV program updates, both define how effective your AV program is. Norton and some others I've used seemed to be real resource-hogs, slowing the system down maddeningly for updates. Avast was great for a long time, but got slower and slower. When I switched to the current one, the updates occur seamlessly, and bad things are routinely flagged and stopped. A word to the possibly unwary:there are a lot of bugs lurking on Ebay auction sites too.

If you're running Chrome, there's a little red stop-sign-shaped icon at the top rt of the nav bar. It will show a white number in it to let you know how many ads are being blocked at any given time.

I should have been clearer. The shelf life is generally considered to be about one year unopened (though this can vary widely, and it lasts almost indefinitely if it's refrigerated before opening), and about one month after opening. Again, it really depends on the specific product and how it's handled and stored.