Ace-Garageguy

Cato's exactly right. A one-time contribution may make you feel better (and believe me, Harry sincerely appreciates EVERYTHING everyone has done) but Harry will be fighting this thing for quite some time to come. He needs our continued support, both personally and financially, until he's completely out of the woods. I'm still committed to forwarding what would be my usual modeling budget to help his cause. Surely we can all afford to send a little more to help save the life of our good friend.

We must be doing it differently. I don't find it to be "finicky" at all unless I try to buff it too soon, when it's still soft. I wait as long as two days. Never a problem. I'll post some pix of a recent aircraft engine cowling project for verification. PS. A part I shot two weeks ago will still buff up to a higher sheen. I just tried it. BUT...the metalizer is FAR less sensitive to rubbing off and fingerprinting now. PPS. I'll do some testing over the weekend. I have several parts to "metalize" that will be largely hidden on a large-scale model. I can experiment 'cause they don't have to be perfect. I'll time the dry times after application and photograph the buffing results.

I know what you mean. A feral momcat that lives outside here abandoned a 5-week old kitten in the back of my truck, almost seemed so I'd be sure to see it when I came in. No possible way the kitten could have got there under its own power. It had diarrhea and couldn't walk very well...something wrong with the back legs. I brought it in, cleaned it up, started feeding it formula from an eye dropper, got it to start taking solid food, etc. It was getting stronger for a few days, was actually trying to follow me around, but still had the digestive and mobility problems. Really cute little bugger, smart, sweet disposition...especially for a feral cat. Then it just started fading and nothing I could do seemed to make any difference. Decided to take it to the vet first thing Monday morning, but it didn't make it through the night. Just sad.

Seems like I've seen more that a few folks try that.

Solvent-type glue (old tube and liquid for plastic) will have eaten into the plastic. Though "freezing" may make sloppy joints brittle enough to snap easily, it won't remove glue that has penetrated. Glues like Ambroid (similar to contact-cement) can be removed by careful scraping. PVA or casein-based white glues will peel off pretty easily. Old CA (superglue) will dissolve in carefully applied acetone.

I dunno...30 bucks seems cheap for something that will give you perfect identical cuts time after time after time. I mean, what else are you going to spend it on that's THAT useful?

Love it. Really. Perfect attitude.

Ol' PJ is a real hoot, slightly unhinged. The full page rants are entertaining in a creepy sort of way, but I wouldn't buy a part from him if it was one cent and somebody had a gun to my head. How there can be enough fools to keep the guy going is another one of those things that is entirely beyond my comprehension. Stultus est sicut stultus facit. Exactly.

Oldish news, but worth a read. Students in Singapore Use 3D Printing to Create a Pair of Solar Powered Vehicleshttps://3dprint.com/41549/3d-print-solar-power-vehicles/

I really like the look. When I was in middle school up in the Northeast, there was a gas-station jock who drove something remarkably like this. I vividly remember the brrrraaaapppp coming out of the stacks behind the bed. He was one of those bad-boy mothers-hide-your-daughters types...and of course all the girls were crazy about him.

Thanks.

There's no shortage of delusional people in every field who truly believe their substandard work is exceptional, or "pro" quality. Almost every day I see something like this The perpetrators without exception apparently think it looks like this. I see carp passed off as "professional" and paid for (very often lotsa money) constantly in bodywork, paint work, engine tuning, upholstery and interior work, electrical work, carpentry, illustration, mechanical design...the list is endless. I don't understand. I probably never will.

We seem to be starting the few weeks we usually get in the fall with weather that's very pleasant. Daytime temps are in the low 80s with low humidity, and at night the temps drop into the 50s or 60s. Clear and breezy, too. Wonderful weather, brilliant blue skies, still lots of green, but the leaves are just starting to turn colors. I slipped the leash early today and went for a 4-mile hike. Sure is good to be getting regular aerobic exercise again, finally. Just have to stay with it and shed the extra 30 pounds I'm dragging around.

...painted with a roller.

Yes sir. There are a few on Ebay at the moment for 99 cents. I'm looking at the possibility of stretching one of my 1/26 Gee Bee kits into a credible representation of this thing.

Travel Air Type-R "Mystery Ship" video (reproduction)

Well over 50. Here's a few of the trucks, etc.

Looks like everything from 6 AM to 8 PM on the 14th is vintage racing stuff. 1929-1968. Cars, airplanes, motorcycles. Pretty cool.

The biggest question is how accurate do you want to get? Do you just want to give a good impression of a stock '32, or do you really want everything to measure out in scale? Any of the Revell '32 1/25 bodies based on this kit (below) are quite accurate, and you have the choice of 3-window or 5-window coupes, sedan, or roadster. For other body styles like the phaeton or the Victoria, you'll have to modify AMT bodies as shown above. Using the quite good Revell frame rails as a starting point, you can fabricate the correct crossmembers, floor, etc. Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland makes a quite correct stock '32 frame (RH 418) and it's not too expensive considering the exquisite quality of all of their parts. They also make several flathead engines, or you can use one of several kits as engine donors. There are also several kits that can supply close to correct (but not exact) suspension bits and wheels / tires. The AMT '34 Ford 5-window and sedan kits (NOT THE USELESS 3-WINDOW KIT) can supply quite close engines, front and rear suspensions, and wheels / tires that measure out to about 18" and look much better. The rear crossmember from the '34 kit chassis can also be swapped in to the Revell frame, but you'll still have to correct the Revell '32 K member. The parts on these AMT kits are finer and not as toylike as the earlier AMT '32 Ford suspension parts. A more realistic rear axle comes in all of the old Revell model A kits derived from this one. Though it has the wrong rear spring for a stock '32, the axle itself is very nice (though it's a model A axle which is somewhat smaller than a '32, you'll never see it in scale) It also has mechanical brakes that can pass for '32 parts, as well as steerable front hubs. The stock front axle in the kit has the wrong drop on the ends for a '32, but it is a very nice part and works well if you don't look too closely.

It's obviously a fake, some little walking piece of .... trying to steal money. Communications from the real Harry will either come from the message center on THIS board, or they'll show up as "Harry via GoFundMe" The world is full of weaselly little thieves. Don't fall for them.

Looks good, and certainly captures the initial impression of the real deal. Your choice of stains looks to be a pretty close match to the little blue coupe wood, too. Nice.

Excellent. The numbers don't lie. Even though .25 mm may "look small", it's very close to perfectly scale-correct in 1/25 to represent a 1/4 inch line. When installed, it will look right when you compare it to a photograph of the underside of a real car. Brake lines when new are either bright silver colored or a medium olivish green these days. Many modelers seem to err on the large side, particularly on plug wires that look like garden hose. Though 3/8 to 1/2 inch is about right for street fuel lines, maybe 5/8" OD for something with really high horsepower, 1/2 inch diameter plug wires are way too big. On your springs, if you're going to wind them around something to actually represent springs, you'll obviously need VERY small diameter wire to start with. Again, many models seem to end up with throttle return springs that would be appropriate for hood hinges.

You're missing the point entirely. You need something that hardens.

Measure the diameter of the real fuel or brake line. Divide by 25.

Fairly standard when paying with a bank card or credit card, in my experience. The stated object is to make sure the data matches the data on file for the card. It's in part fraud-prevention. Any differences in the data you enter and what's on file for the card will cause the payment to be declined. The e-mail requirement is to send you a confirmation and also to allow the recipient to send a thank-you.