Ace-Garageguy

I can see where you're headed and like it. Probably the only phaeton altered ever built.

And it's equally hard (at least) for me to relate to people who don't actually MAKE things in the physical world, day in, day out. It's a whole different mindset from what I encounter in the majority of "others". These are just examples of the more interesting of thousands of tools I have to choose from in my own line of work, every day. Plus computers, CAD, CFD, etc. No apps will ever take the place of what talented and skilled human hands and minds can do with physical tools, but electronic gadgetry certainly is a worthwhile adjunct. I've come to rely HEAVILY on the web to find parts, materials, processes, technical specs and other tech info, and a wide array of other work-related things, communicate with clients and suppliers, etc...I just don't need that access in my hand. Getting off my feet and sitting at a workstation for a few minutes works fine. PS. And now that I've let myself be distracted by this site for a couple of hours, I STILL have to WORK a couple more hours to actually accomplish some of what they pay me for.

My exercise program just isn't working. Must be my genes and glands that make me fat.

While fairly recently traveling far from the beaten path with a female companion who had a smartphone, she often had "no service". My old-fogey paper maps and compass still worked just fine though. It was often also helpful to be aware that the sun comes up in the east, sets in the west, and is close to overhead around local noon. A generation that relies solely on technology and has no backup plan (and little common sense understanding of things that used to be "common knowledge") is possibly going to face a rude awakening at some point in time.

Which is exactly why it's always smart to match the numbered type pf plastic you use for your container to the type of plastic the material was delivered in. It's not hard.

My thoughts exactly. Glass has always been pretty much the universal container-material of choice for many lab chemicals specifically because it's impervious to most everything (other than hot phosphoric acid, hydroflouric acid and hot, strong alkalis).

Boy howdy.

The TYPE of plastic you use CAN be important too. Ideally, you want to use the identical plastic the stripper is packaged in. This can be found on the bottom of most plastic containers, as it's useful to know for recycling. Try to match the number (or letter code) of the original container of the product with the number or code of the container you want to use. A little prudence here can avoid nasty surprises later. Here's a link to the codes: https://www.qualitylogoproducts.com/lib/different-types-of-plastic.htm

The kind of metal is important. Strippers, in general, won't damage ferrous metals (like iron, steel and stainless-steel) but some will attack non-ferrous metals (like aluminum and magnesium).

Beautiful parts, as usual from R&M. Thanks for the heads-up.

Yes, that is definitely one of the better ones. Rides With Chuck has online content that's about the cars, not a lot of silly BS. Here's a segment where Ian Roussel helps Voodoo Larry form a plexi rear window for a full custom. Though the crew is unsuccessful, there's a ton of knowledge here with no stupid interpersonal drama...just guys working together trying to accomplish something that's not easy.

Yup. It really depends on exactly what kind of car your model is supposed to represent. A pro-tourer is usually about handling. A nose-down attitude will effectively transfer more of the vehicle's weight forward and tend to make an already nose-heavy, understeering car understeer even worse. On the other hand, a high-horsepower car built primarily for drag-racing (which your induction setup would imply this is) could benefit from a-little-more-nose-down attitude to help with stability.

Agreed 100%. But when the smartphone becomes a substitute for actually knowing anything, or the ability to perform simple arithmetic, or replaces basic face-to-face human communication, it's no longer a useful tool. At that point it's at best an unnecessary crutch for the lazy, and at worst an unfortunate replacement for real life.

Yup...forgot all about that one. Available on youtube (as are episodes of Leno's show).

I can't stand any of 'em, to tell the truth. I've been building high-end and race cars for a large part of my working life and I can't recall any shops where the principals dressed up like pirates and wannabe rock stars, behaved like ADHD 5-year-olds who missed their Ritalin fix, or spent most of their time slapping each other on the back and talking in loud gruff voices with irritating blang-blang-blang music playing so loud you can't hear yourself think. Some of the workmanship and welding is appallingly bad, and I'd fire most of the people on these "reality" shows the same day I hired them...if I DID hire them, which is doubtful. One exception. Leno is OK, has real respect for the cars and tries to understand what makes them special. He actually drives the things and gives his impressions of some of the worlds automotive icons. Seems to be in it for the fun too, rather than trying to make a fast buck on everything he touches. Both Steve Moal and Chip Foose really know their stuff. Foose is a world-class illustrator and designer, and it's pretty obvious he knows the hardware too. When his crew get into a little rough spot, he's there with the right move, every time. Moal is an all-around class act and hires first-rate talent. Unfortunately, the "production values" that try to make their work appeal to the lowest-common-denominator audience leave me bored shittless. And you can keep all the rest. The Graveyard Cars guy once said of his crew "they may not be the brightest bulbs on the string, but they're cheap". Yeah, that's really what it takes to do top-of-the-line work. PS: There are some fairly decent clips available on youtube that don't go in for the idiot crapp and showcase the work and the skills involved. These can be useful and to me, entertaining. Might actually LEARN something too.

See ya'll there, maybe (it's in the next burg over from me).

The current project is the "low-tech" version, with no engine. I got a deal on it, and bought it specifically to build a smallblock Chebby-powered version while getting familiar with the kit in preparation for building the "high-tech" version.

One more Revell '30 Ford coupe for parts (another 40% off deal), a can of Tamiya fine white primer for the Gunze 250 GTO project (even the least-hot Duplicolor white sandable primer is crazing it lightly), a can of Tamiya Racing Green for the Bonneville Jag XK-120, and a pack of chisel-tip knife blades. Pretty exciting, eh?

It's cool outside (about 73F), there's a moon sneaking in and out between the clouds, and I have a nice fresh pot of hot strong coffee. Simple pleasures for simple minds.

The Loctite epoxy product lists a 20-25 minute cure time, which is going to make it a LOT stronger than the 5-minute stuff. Additionally, the label says it's an "acrylic" formula, which is quite possibly in line with the recommendation I found earlier that someone " always use(s) Devcon Plastic Welder [22045]. It's part epoxy, part methyl-methacrylate . Seems to work better than most other types of adhesives for non-bondable apps." The Devcon Plastic Welder 22045 is also available at places like Walmart.

More thinking, I'd tend to prefer CA over 5-minute epoxy. The 5-minute stuff doesn't stick particularly well to ANYTHING in my experience.

I also found this on one of the "practical machinist" sites that have people who actually DO stuff, rather than endlessly-repeated but untested opinions. " I always use Devcon Plastic Welder[22045?]. It's part epoxy, part meth-methacrylate[dental acrylic]. Seems to work better than most other types of adhesives for non-bondable apps." And this: '"A loctite applications engineer recommended this for delrin to aluminum.Rough up delrin770 Prism PrimerLoctite 401 "

I did a little more digging, and this hardware-store product by Loctite specifically mentions Delrin as one of the plastics it's effective on. As it also bonds a wide array of other materials too, it might be worth at least trying it on your application, as whatever is left over can be used as a conventional medium-strength epoxy. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/epxy_plstc_s/overview/Loctite-Epoxy-Plastic-Bonder.htm