Ace-Garageguy

I've always kinda liked this kit as a parts source. The tank, big-truck generic axles, the trailing arms, and a not-too-bad Ford cammer engine are worth the price to me. Great kitbashing potential here.

Stunning photo. In all my years of paying attention to the sky, I've never seen that effect so pronounced before. Wonderful Beautiful. .

It's become my opinion from looking at a lot of kits with posable steering over the years that it's not the spindles or struts being able to pivot that generally causes the out-of-scale fidelity issues, but (usually) rather the linkage. Molding and plastic-strength constraints being what they are, it's almost impossible to do steering linkage tie-rod ends in anything close to scale. Some of the more successful attempts have required melting pivot pins over flat with a hot knife blade, and even for very experienced modelers the results could be erratic and iffy. At least having the posable spindles themselves (which several kits that have fixed linkage include, and which seem to go unnoticed most of the time) gives the more advanced modeler an opportunity to make up more scale-correct linkage without having to completely re-engineer the front suspension in order to get the effect of steering. Scratch-building fixed scale-correct linkage in a posed position isn't particularly difficult for anyone who cares to do so, but of course, scratch-building movable linkage in scale is another thing entirely.

Yup. This'll never happen...

All I'm trying to get you to see, sir, is that it's impossible to edit someone's original post. You can edit the quoted portion that appears in a reply...nothing more. Simple concept.

You DID NOT EDIT MY ORIGINAL POST. LOOK AT IT.

He's right. The even exhaust port spacing, the paired intake port spacing, and the valve cover shape and bolt pattern scream big-block Chebby.

Yup, that's how you do it. And after another half hour of searching, still no joy. I'm done. Nobody is paying me.

Just in case you didn't notice, you did NOT change the ORIGINAL post...only what is inside the quotes in YOUR response. This feature of the software allows you to edit the quoted portion so you don't have to quote the whole damm thing, only enough to make a point.

Really glad you're about fully functional again, Bill. You're kinda one of the icons of the hobby, and it's good to know you'll be continuing to show us all how it's done.

Happens to me all the time.

To further digress, here's a brief overview of the pre-new LT1 LS series of engines. Anyone building late-model GM-V8-powered models might like to know the differences and similarities. http://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-stories/engine/ls1-lsa-lsx-what-is-the-difference/

The closely-spaced vertical ribs stamped in the lower area of the radiator shell should be a positive identifier. I have found similar, but nothing exact. There also appears to be an unusual curlicue stamped into the cowl side as part of the character line. Again, I've found nothing even similar. The fact that this car is missing its rear bodywork may be an indication that it was a alloy-bodied coachbuilt car, the aluminum portion having been scrounged for the war effort. I've seen this in junkyards everywhere there are pre-WWII cars.

Actually, the new LT1 is a further development of the LS engine architecture. Introduced in the C7 Corvette, the initial displacement was 6.2 liters, or 376 cubic inches. A new block casting, new heads, a revised lubrication system and other refinements combine to make it a better LS. http://www.chevrolet.com/performance/crate-engines/lt1.html Incidentally, the LS1 displaced 346 cubic inches or 5.7 liters, and was introduced in the '97 C5 Corvette. I recently put one in a '47 Cadillac convertible, with a 4L80E gearbox and stand-alone engine and trans management electronics.

Pretty cool that in the recent wake of everyone crying about R2 not doing any all-new-tool kits, they knock one like this out of the park. It's a must-buy for me, as I have some very definite dislikes about the real car's styling, and the model will give me the opportunity to hack and rearrange to suit my taste...and being a full-detail kit, it will let me see if the guts will still fit after surgery. I like it.

I agree...the LS swaps are getting to be like bellybuttons....just like smallblock Chebbys used to be. But here's an interesting twist. There's an aftermarket classic smallblock Chebby bottom end available (special block casting) that will take the LS heads. This is possible because the bore spacing is the same on both engine architectures. Best of both worlds, old school and new school. Relatively inexpensive and bulletproof old Chebby guts, heads that flow and burn like a modern engine. A junkyard late-model Mopar Hemi would also make nice swap-fodder, or a 4-cam Ford V8. (I once put an old Hemi in a real Lusso, eons ago.) I tend to build models of things that would be relatively easy to accomplish in reality, and all of these would fill the bill nicely.

Hmmmm...guess I'll just hafta put an LS in the old Aston...

I always enjoy seeing your trucks that look like they work hard for a living. This is no exception. VERY nice.

Another one of these for $19 at Hobby Lobby with a 40% off coupon. It's a nice kit for $29. It's a steal at $19.

Vibrant color still finds its way into contemporary interior design, but it's not mainstream...

I found some extremely flexible 2.5mm-3mm black rubber tubing (perfect for radiator hoses in 1/24-1/25) in the beading section of Hobby Lobby. Because it's actually tubing, you can insert a metal core, like soft wire, to make the stuff retain a particular curve if necessary. Cheap too...something like $2.50 for 10 feet. I didn't look for anything larger, but you never know. Ebay also has a multitude of small heat-shrink tubing sizes available, from China of course, for very little money. Here's 32 feet of it for six bucks, free shipping. http://www.ebay.com/itm/10m-32-8FT-5mm-Inner-Diameter-Heat-Shrink-Tubing-/290671472578?hash=item43ad5eafc2:g:6GwAAMXQzopRzPHh

Exactly. I've often wondered why folks seem to have so much trouble making them run right. It sure helps to understand, like you obviously do, what you're trying to do. The only "synchronizing" part is making sure WOT occurs on all 3 carbs simultaneously.

And one of the several most important cars of all time. Yes, beautiful model. Nice work with the paint to represent the metal forward and soft rear bodywork, too.

Well, this is supposed to be a model of something relatively easily street drivable (and fairly inexpensive), and may very well be a model of my next personal 1:1 full build. Though it's entirely possible to set up Hilborn mechanical injection for street use (not common, but possible), or to run six 2-barrels, it's overkill in my mind. A car weighing less than 2000 pounds with a nicely blueprinted 327 and a 3X2 setup and a roller cam with lift and overlap numbers similar to a factory L-79 stick ought to make more power than can be really used on the street anyway...which is why the model has quite wide slicks at this point. I'll groove them to represent barely street-legal cheaters. 350HP is easily doable with the reliability of a stone ax, and 350 real flywheel horsepower in a 2000 pound car is seriously fast, even by today's standards. I'll save the Hilborn and 6X2 setups for period drag or Bonneville-style cars.