Monty

I'm starting to see more builders use beading wire and other materials to incorporate "real" hard lines into their chassis detailing & I'd like to find out what all you're using and how you're anchoring the lines to the chassis. For example, I've got a number of MPC Corvettes which already have these lines molded in. I'd prefer to use them as guides for running real hard lines (brakes & fuel) but I'm not sure how to get rid of the molded in lines from a textured surface. TIA for all helpful replies, pics and advice.

Nicely planned and executed. Good job, Brian!

Can't think of anything to say that wouldn't get me banned, so....

Anybody know the story on this one?

I'm trying to get an order in here, but I see two listings for Chevrolet Shadow Gray, P/N 446 & P/N 594. Anybody know the difference?

If the government ever revives the Cash for Clunkers program, they'll end up charging him for the effort required to tear this Bondo-barge down. I'm still curious how he passed the vision portion of his driver's exam.

Wow, I want to load up on this sale and get some of the factory colors I've been needing, but I'm a little concerned about the note that pretty much says they need to be used in conjunction with a respirator. I'm guessing it's because the enamels are reduced with lacquer. I don't have a respirator and I doubt it'd do much good since my beard would probably keep it from sealing properly. Suggestions? (Other than trimming the beard)

Brett, do you have an authoritative link on this? I used to have about 10 years worth of various Mustang magazines around here from when I owned my '73, and none ever mentioned this combination. Not being argumentative, just curious.

I'm curious where you're getting your information. The '64 1/2 Mustang engine would've had a black block, gold valve covers and a gold air cleaner. '66 is the first year for blue Ford V8s and the Ford experts I've read say the paint formula varied slightly over the years. Some people here say they've never seen a Ford engine in any of the darker blues, but that's what I grew up working on. In fact, Testors original #2727 Ford blue (released in the early '80s) is this shade. Somewhere along the line they changed the description to Ford/GM Engine Blue, a lighter shade. If you're doing replica stock for a '64 1/2 - '65 'Stang, my 1st paragraph still stands. If not, get the Model Master #2727.

Just for the record, the car depicted and the model being built are '67 442s.

Yeah, yeah, another impeccably painted tri-five with well-chosen colors from Dave. Whatever...

Looks like I get another chance to learn something new. I've always assumed that Humbrol made their own paint a la Testors (again, I assume). If they don't, who makes it for them? Yeah, it looks like it'd be tough to get anything out of Europe, but one of Jonathan's links is for a place in Australia that apparently will ship solvent-based paints here. Shipping will be around $16.00 - not that much more than the $12.00 shipping that goes with most ebay kit buys.

Sharp work, Steve! Can we see some engine, interior and chassis shots?

Do you guys think one of those liquid mask solutions would cover the letters adequately if I applied it with a toothpick & let it dry before airbrushing the panel?

Do MM acrylics brush nicely? I only ask because trying to brush-paint withTamiya acrylics frustrated me beyond belief. I was used to the way enamels could be "worked" with a paintbrush, but Tamiya paints seemed like a one-stroke-and-done proposition.

Al, that's a good lookin' Cougar, but are you sure it was painted Teal? As Skip noted, the color I'm looking for should be more bluish-green or vice versa. If I understood you correctly, you shot MM acrylic over Tamiya lacquer primer? OK, apparently that works well.

Here's the stuff I'm talking about - not the "teal" in the 1/4 oz jars. I'm told it's a slightly different shade (not as dark) as Testors' enamel Chezoom Teal. I'm also curious about its opacity. Will the shade of primer affect its appearance? Bonus question: What's a good primer for acrylics?

The area I'm talking about is the black strip between the trunk and the bumper. I can't imagine getting the quality of results I'm looking for by using a small brush, but I'm not sure how to airbrush that area without covering the letters up. I'm open to using either Testors acrylic or Testors enamel on this, if it makes a difference. Feel free to post up examples of whatever method you suggest

I agree with Tom - I like the colors. Post more when you can.

I like the fact that the paint is made by Humbrol since I've been using their paints for decades. I've heard mostly good things about RoG kits, but I don't own any. As far as paint recommendations go, I've found that a Google search is generally more accurate than most instruction sheet call-outs. I'm mostly interested in these (particularly the "silk" paints) because they offer shades that aren't readily available here.

Revell's own site says they're not sold here or in Canada. Has anybody been able to buy them from a reliable business in Europe? Links would be appreciated.

I've always liked the real car, so I was delighted to see that Matt was going to be building this kit. I'd built one in '78 and have a few waiting on the shelves, so I figured it'd be worth my while to follow this project to see what could be done to improve it. If you've been reading Matt's WIP thread, you've seen how that he raised the bar significantly with diligent research and skillful scratchbuilding abilities. It's probably the understatement of the year to say that this turned out exceptionally nicely. Well done, Matt! Sweating the details pays off again.

Somewhere in a cheap museum, the K.I.T.T. car snickers.

Jay Leno has a similar car that he and his staff restored http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1lm3n9xc-ek

Best I can figure is that they're meant to resemble heater hoses, despite where they begin and end. One of the first mods I made to my '67 was sanding these off. .