BirdWatcher Posted March 23, 2015 Posted March 23, 2015 So I'm having trouble with some stubborn lacquer, tried stripping with castrol super clean, Bleach, Bleche white and still have some thick amber looking lacquer. Looks as if my tree was dipped, or sprayed several times. Is that even possible? Parts in question are from the current AMT Super Stones 78 Ford.
Snake45 Posted March 23, 2015 Posted March 23, 2015 I've seen that kind of thing. I took it off with Easy-Off oven cleaner.
BirdWatcher Posted March 23, 2015 Author Posted March 23, 2015 Yo Snake, which color can? I have a blue can under the sink.
cobraman Posted March 23, 2015 Posted March 23, 2015 Blue can does not work. You have to use the yellow can.
Quick GMC Posted March 23, 2015 Posted March 23, 2015 I use the yellow can of Easy OFF. I also use an old brush attachment for my electric toothbrush and it does a pretty good job of loosening up the coating underneath the chrome. Sometimes I have to do 2 applications.
Snake45 Posted March 23, 2015 Posted March 23, 2015 Yo Snake, which color can? I have a blue can under the sink. Yellow can, Heavy Duty.
Foxer Posted March 23, 2015 Posted March 23, 2015 I also use Dawn power dissolver for the chrome lacquer removal. All those other things mentioned above have never removed it .. maybe they have for some kits lacquer but not on the tough stuff.
BirdWatcher Posted March 23, 2015 Author Posted March 23, 2015 Thanks guys! I'll make a trip to the grocery store tonight and see what all I can get.
fseva Posted March 24, 2015 Posted March 24, 2015 (edited) I thought the yellow coating was varnish! Yes? Edited March 24, 2015 by fseva
Miatatom Posted March 24, 2015 Posted March 24, 2015 I'm completely sold on using 91% isopropyl alcohol to strip lacquers. I spray Tamiya TS lacquers and it will remove it. Might take a little scrubbing but it will remove it.
Quick GMC Posted March 24, 2015 Posted March 24, 2015 I'm completely sold on using 91% isopropyl alcohol to strip lacquers. I spray Tamiya TS lacquers and it will remove it. Might take a little scrubbing but it will remove it. I know tamiya isa synthetic lacquer, does it work the same with other lacquers, like Scale Finishes, which I think is automotive lacquer? I haven't tried it and I hope I don't have to
Art Anderson Posted March 24, 2015 Posted March 24, 2015 I know tamiya isa synthetic lacquer, does it work the same with other lacquers, like Scale Finishes, which I think is automotive lacquer? I haven't tried it and I hope I don't have to Scale Finishes is a line of Acrylic Enamels, not lacquers--just to clarify. Art
fseva Posted March 24, 2015 Posted March 24, 2015 I know tamiya isa synthetic lacquer, does it work the same with other lacquers, like Scale Finishes, which I think is automotive lacquer? I haven't tried it and I hope I don't have to Scale Finishes is "acrylic enamel"... MCW is "acrylic lacquer" - yes, both are used on cars. I don't think they are anything like Tamiya... or Testors, for that matter...
Quick GMC Posted March 24, 2015 Posted March 24, 2015 (edited) Scale Finishes is "acrylic enamel"... MCW is "acrylic lacquer" - yes, both are used on cars. I don't think they are anything like Tamiya... or Testors, for that matter... They have acrylic enamel, but the base coats are lacquer. The enamels are gloss and don't need a clear coat, but the basecoats are very similar to Zero. They are flat and need a clear. Unless I've been wrong this whole time. I did strip one car that had Scale Finishes Enamel gloss coat and brake fluid worked incredibly well and left the Tamiya primer completely intact. Edited March 24, 2015 by Quick GMC
Mike_G Posted March 25, 2015 Posted March 25, 2015 The only thing I've found that will reliably strip that varnish is pure denatured alcohol and a toothbrush, and even then it's a pain. So I don't do it anymore, I just paint right over it and haven't had a problem.
fseva Posted March 25, 2015 Posted March 25, 2015 The only thing I've found that will reliably strip that varnish is pure denatured alcohol and a toothbrush, and even then it's a pain. So I don't do it anymore, I just paint right over it and haven't had a problem. That's what I do, except when the part comes out with some of the varnish already gone... then, I'm forced to remove the rest because the part has to be perfectly smooth to get a good final finish on it. I figure the manufacturer applied the varnish to get a smooth finish for their chrome.
Art Anderson Posted March 25, 2015 Posted March 25, 2015 That basecoat today is a fairly fast-drying non-penetrating lacquer, which is used to give a very high gloss to the parts, before the plating (actually vaporized aluminum which is done in a vacuum tank drawn down to 29" of mercury--the most complete vacuum that is mechanically possible). Immediately after removal from the vacuum tank, the parts trees are then sprayed with another thin coating of clear non-penetrating lacquer, to protect that micro-thin layer of aluminum from exposure to the surrounding air (which would oxidize it very quickly). I've always used lye in (chemical name "sodium hydroxide") to remove chrome from model car parts (going all the way back into the 1960's!), and that has done the job for me almost always, but sometimes (particularly with kits made overseas) the basecoat can be stubborn. Easy Off with the yellow cap contains lye as its active ingredient, but it's not all that strongly concentrated. To get the strongest lye solution, I highly recommend Lewis Red Devil Lye, which is an old standby household chemical, and can be found in the cleaning supplies section of most any supermarket, even the various Big Box stores. Lewis Lye comes in crystal form, to be added to water--NEVER, EVER add water to the lye crystals, as that can cause a serious reaction, giving off strong caustic lye fumes, even bubbling up and splashing! ALWAYS add lye crystals to water, by the teaspoonful--the more lye you add to water, the stronger, and more caustic it will be. When adding lye crystals to water, take the time to stir the solution to ensure that the crystals don't lump together, as this will take quite a while to dissolve, so take your time here. Wam (BUT NEvER HOT!) water will speed the disolution of the lye crystals. It's also VERY important to wear protective gear when working with lye--those Nitrile examination gloves sold in just about every drugstore around will protect your hands, and by all means wear adequate eye protection, as lye will cause irreversible damage (burns) if you splash it in your eyes!. I cannot emphasize this enough! Put your parts in the lye solution, and let them soak--you will probably see the aluminum plating vanish very quickly, but it can take a few hours for it to soften the clear base coating on the plastic parts--but only a couple of times has it ever failed to do that for me. If need be, get some 91% isopropyl alcohol at your local Walgreens or CVS--that will not damage styrene plastic whatsoever, but it will remove even stubborn lacquer in my experience. When you think the base coat has softened sufficiently, place the stripped parts in clean, clear water and use an old toothbrush to gently scrub them--you should see clean styrene parts with that. Lye can be poured down the drain (it's the active ingredient in Drano, for example!). Lewis Lye is the least expensive paint stripper out there--lye also being known as "caustic soda" has been used by furniture and automobile restorers for decades. Art
Chuck Most Posted March 25, 2015 Posted March 25, 2015 I've been using LA's Totally Awesome- it makes quick work of the plating itself, and usually does a pretty good job of getting rid of the undercoating, though sometimes it does take a while. I take them out periodically and scrub the parts with a nylon-bristle brush. I've noticed that the stuff Round 2 uses is about the worst, in terms of thickness and difficulty to strip.
fseva Posted March 25, 2015 Posted March 25, 2015 I've always used lye in (chemical name "sodium hydroxide") to remove chrome from model car parts (going all the way back into the 1960's!), and that has done the job for me almost always, but sometimes (particularly with kits made overseas) the basecoat can be stubborn. Easy Off with the yellow cap contains lye as its active ingredient, but it's not all that strongly concentrated. To get the strongest lye solution, I highly recommend Lewis Red Devil Lye, which is an old standby household chemical, and can be found in the cleaning supplies section of most any supermarket, even the various Big Box stores. I tried Amazon for this lye and came up empty. However, they did list 1lb of "Pure Lye Drain Opener" at $10.20 which seemed a decent substitute, for those who are interested.
fseva Posted March 25, 2015 Posted March 25, 2015 I've been using LA's Totally Awesome- it makes quick work of the plating itself, and usually does a pretty good job of getting rid of the undercoating, though sometimes it does take a while. I take them out periodically and scrub the parts with a nylon-bristle brush. I've noticed that the stuff Round 2 uses is about the worst, in terms of thickness and difficulty to strip. Tell us more about Totally Awesome - what is it? Is it similar to Simple Green? Is it environmentally-friendly? etc., etc.
Kit Basher Posted April 2, 2015 Posted April 2, 2015 Totally Awesome is sold at Dollar Tree. And yes, it is a dollar, for a quart. It is excellent for removing enamel model paint. I've stripped several old bodies with it and they come out perfectly clean. Even tho my strip tank is now a yucky green color, it still works. For stripping chrome, it removes the plating fast, not so much on the undercoat. For the really tough yellowish gunk, count me in the Easy Off group. It sometimes takes a while and some scrubbing, but it will get rid of it.
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