Thames Woody

[alan barton]

Hi Jim, may I suggest that any rear axle unit from an AMT 25 or 27 Model T kit (any version) will give you a more delicate assembly than the fairly robust Model A or 32 type axle you showed earlier. The T axle does not have that flat circumference ( the 'banjo")  but it would only take a few moments with a file to fix that. It would be more in keeping with the size of the Thames components.

Love your work so far - the wood frame detailing is very impressive.

I'm at work at the moment but when I get home I will check my stash for some 1/32nd scale Pyro Plymouth artillery wheels - these also may be more to scale than the 37 Ford pickup ones.

Cheers

Alan

[styromaniac]

I agree with Alan...the rear axle mock up looked a little "robust". Let me know if you can't find the units he suggested...I'm sure I have one or two in my stash.

[SpeedShift]

Thanks guys.

Which axle are we talking about.....being a tad too "robust" - the first one with dual leaf springs, or the second one with the single traverse leaf spring....or both?

[SpeedShift]

Checked the kit stash....I have two  AMT 25 T kits..." '25 Ford Roadster" and "1925 Ford Model T"  to compare for a less robust unit.

Both 25 T kits have a stock axle option...the light grey piece as shown ( the alternative is an early attempt at a Halibrand quick change rear) ...same one piece unit in each kit, with hollow back.

For comparison I have the dark grey axle I was using, since it appeared to match my reference photo, and a similar light blue unit which may be from an AMT 29 roadster kit, which is very similar to the dark grey unit except for some additional detail bolts.

Maybe a check on other kits will offer something.

Given Alan's suggestion, I need to rethink the axle tube width on all of these, that is the part that looks too beefy to me, and maybe rethink the differential component itself as well.

(Alan...you ever post on Australian Automotive Model Builders ?  I've traded with guys there if you can find those artillery wheels)

 

 

Edited December 2, 2020 by SpeedShift

[SpeedShift]

Think I found something....much less robust...chrome rear axles from the Revell 29 Ford Rat Rod kit.

Will dechrome ,  maybe narrow the center a bit more, and take a look.

 

Edited December 2, 2020 by SpeedShift

[SpeedShift]

Spent some time reworking the front suspension and engine mount to allow the engine and radiator tank to fit, and them reworked the rear axle.

 

Edited December 7, 2020 by SpeedShift

[PatW]

Please keep up the good work it's looking fantastic!

[styromaniac]

Yeah....got to keep at least one of your half dozen or so projects moving forward!

[SpeedShift]

Thanks guys.

This has been a real challenge getting information on the stock configuration of both the suspension and the engine, as well as the interior.

Keep turning up new information online, some from the sale of a full size stock vehicle, but after completely changing the rear suspension and modifying the hood and front suspension, I'm ready to go with what I have and proceed.

Right now I'm working the rear axle shackles on the leaf spring and repositioning the front axle on the frame to get all the wheels/tires in the same position relative the fenders, and to make sure the whole thing sits correctly.

I've done more dry fitting and adjusting on this one than any other project.

Once the rear axle is set up correctly I'll need to get the engine transmission to hook up in order to do the interior floorboards...and seats.

Seat frames and steering column and dashboard come next after that.

Door hinges after that.

 

Edited December 8, 2020 by SpeedShift

[SpeedShift]

Worked on the rear engine mounts, firewall and floorboard.

Trial fit PE hood grill inserts from Model Car Garage.

[alan barton]

Hi Jim, sorry for the delay in responding to your earlier posts.

Yep, that is the T model axle I was speaking of.  You are right about the Revell Model A axle being the best of the bunch but I still feel that some reworking of the Model T axle would more closely suit the Thames proportions. If you reduce that hump near the third member on each side of the tube, and then filed a flat surface around the centre ridge, to my eyes at least I think you would be in the ballpark..

Been spending more time in the garage on my 35 than in the model room just lately so I will dig out those Plymouth wheels this weekend.  I am thinking that while they would suit the size of your Thames, the detail in your 37 ford units might be more in keeping with the detail you have put into this model.  I must say, that engine bay is looking amazing!

I'll be in touch!

Cheers

Alan

[alan barton]

Just went back and had another look at your reworked Revell axle - yeah, I would go with that!

Cheers

Alan

[rustybill1960]

This is one "Killer" of a project

I like it a lot!

Thank You for sharing this with Us 

I am really excited about this

Watching this "closely"

Later

Russ

[SpeedShift]

9 hours ago, alan barton said:

Just went back and had another look at your reworked Revell axle - yeah, I would go with that!

Cheers

Alan

Alan, thanks for looking into the wheels and suggestions.

[SpeedShift]

1 hour ago, rustybill1960 said:

This is one "Killer" of a project

I like it a lot!

Thank You for sharing this with Us 

I am really excited about this

Watching this "closely"

Later

Russ

Russ, thanks, happy to have you take a look.

[cobraman]

Really nice work.

[SpeedShift]

This may be the hardest part....trying to sheet the footwells under the dash - behind the firewall. Trial fitting templates made from post it notes, making cut marks on those, and cutting and fitting sheet styrene to match..

I'll need to score the sheet to get it to contour with the floor.

....and allow room for the steering column that needs to drop in on a hanger under the dash.

Edited December 10, 2020 by SpeedShift

[SpeedShift]

22 minutes ago, cobraman said:

Really nice work.

Thanks, I appreciate it.

[SpeedShift]

I did some measuring and decided to rescribe the dashboard to allow the proper spacing for the three guages...then fill in the old scribing.

Added steering column hanger.

Scratchbuilt a radiator overflow tank (I think that's what it is) on the engine compartment battery deck.

 

[SpeedShift]

Today, made wishbone tie rods from brass.

Also made some wheel hubs from several sections of aluminum tubing to install in the rear wheels to fit them to the new rear axle.

 

 

Edited December 11, 2020 by SpeedShift

[SpeedShift]

Made stock seat frames from brass wire.

[Tom Geiger]

I love the seats!  Great work with the brass frames!

[alan barton]

Hi Jim,

I dug out the 1/32nd scale Pyro Plymouth wheels today but unfortunately they are not even close!  Blame it on a failing memory!  Sorry to get your hopes up.  

Meanwhile, I must concur with Tom, the seats are looking fantastic.  The dash is great as well - many years ago while looking for vintage tin in the outback, I cam across a seriously squashed Thames that still had it's dashboard intact.  Being made of Bakelite and exposed to the Austrlaian sun for who knows how many years, it retained its beautiful walnut swirly colour.  I rescued it and it now sits inside a street rod running an English Cosworth engine.

Cheers

Alan

[SpeedShift]

Alan...thanks for looking.

Great story on that Thames dash board.

Any pictures?

 

[bobthehobbyguy]

Wow. What a stunning project. Very nice fabrication work.