parkflyrer 50 Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 Well here we go again build #4..and it's a doozy the MPC 67 GTO..I love this body style but I don't think I've ever seen so much flashing on one kit..the body was horrible the windshield pillars literally looked clumpy and you can actually see where the plastic is injected into the mold this kit is really going to test my ability and patience..okay that's enough whining...let's get to work any tips / advise greatly appreciated
Sledsel Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 Wow, I have one and it looks pretty good. Chassis I did not like, but it is an old MPC mold
spencer1984 Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 Yup, this was a rough one. It can be done, though - good luck!
jsc Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 I agree - a kit that takes a ton clean up, but can be made into a nice model. Don't get in a hurry on this one!
Snake45 Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 What everyone else said. When I built this kit a couple decades ago, I had something like 40 hours in body cleanup/filling/straightening/correcting. Looked pretty good when I got through with all that, though.
Dan Helferich Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 Check the wheelbase on the chassis. If I remember correctly the axle holes are drilled for the '70, you may have to drill new holes to get the wheels to sit right in the wheel wells.
Speedfreak Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 (edited) The X-Acto knife will become your best friend. You may know this, but , you can also use the back side of the blade for removing mold seams. Once you get the really rough stuff removed, (the sharp part of the blade can get a lot of that, just be careful) , then you can use the back side of the blade to scrape it smooth. It may still need a little sanding, just depends. The key is going slowly. My knife (s) have become my most useful tool. That is a beautiful body style. Edited June 23, 2015 by Speedfreak
charlie8575 Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 Use the underpinnings from a Revell '66 GTO. Use the 4-bbl. from the MPC kit for the correct intake set-up (no tri-power in '67.) The front seats are from the '70, I think. Modelhaus and at least one or two other casters offer the correct '67 seats. Charlie Larkin
Roadrunner Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 Cool project. A very good high school buddy (now deceased) had a '65 GTO convertible. We rebuilt the 389 (with some extra goodies), and it ran really great! I miss those days, I can tell you that.
Bob Ellis Posted June 24, 2015 Posted June 24, 2015 This kit is based on the 1966 GTO kit, and parts of it are used on the 1972. Having said that, it's been modified to death. When I built the '67 GTO (in 1967) it had 4 screws to hold it together. For fidelity, I might toss the MPC engine and chassis for the '66 Revell.
slusher Posted June 24, 2015 Posted June 24, 2015 Worn molds on this tired old kit but can be build nicely with plenty of work...
Snake45 Posted June 24, 2015 Posted June 24, 2015 (edited) ...It may still need a little sanding, just depends. "A little sanding" HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! I had to block-sand every square millimeter of mine, and used a fair amount of putty on the thing, too. At times I felt like I was basically sculpting a '67 GTO out of a (vaguely) car-shaped shell of raw plastic. ETA: I've recently shot more/better pics of this model, but need to touch them up and load them into the Bucket. Meanwhile, here are the only two shots I have of it ready to go. Edited June 24, 2015 by Snake45
Speedfreak Posted June 24, 2015 Posted June 24, 2015 "A little sanding" HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! I had to block-sand every square millimeter of mine, and used a fair amount of putty on the thing, too. I was referring to a specific 'seam, or , mold line' after it has been scraped with the back of an X-Acto blade, not the model as a whole
Snake45 Posted June 27, 2015 Posted June 27, 2015 Who are the "patients" you referred to? He meant "patience," of course.
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