MrObsessive Posted December 30, 2015 Posted December 30, 2015 Well y'all know how I build..............nice and slow! Nevertheless, I did manage to get this one done a bit ago. Maybe next year I can have at least two under my belt! You can expect to see this at least finished in '16............... The '59's body has been sealed with a few coats of BIN Zinsser sealer, next will be primer. After all this work on the body, I want no surprises when it comes time to color coat.
bbowser Posted December 30, 2015 Posted December 30, 2015 Really nice Mustang. Looking forward to the Impala!
Mike Chernecki Posted December 30, 2015 Posted December 30, 2015 The '59's body has been sealed with a few coats of BIN Zinsser sealer, next will be primer. After all this work on the body, I want no surprises when it comes time to color coat. , Are you using the same BIN Zinsser sealer that is sold as a stain blocker at Home Depot, etc? Isn't this an oil based primer? Or is there an automotive version of this?
MrObsessive Posted December 30, 2015 Author Posted December 30, 2015 Are you using the same BIN Zinsser sealer that is sold as a stain blocker at Home Depot, etc? Isn't this an oil based primer? Or is there an automotive version of this? This is the can I'm using Mike..........I've not had any problems with it. You'll have to mix it up in the can, but it cleans up easily with ammonia.
Taxdude Posted December 30, 2015 Posted December 30, 2015 2 in one year! This is some kind of crazy talk.
Mike Chernecki Posted December 30, 2015 Posted December 30, 2015 This is the can I'm using Mike..........I've not had any problems with it. You'll have to mix it up in the can, but it cleans up easily with ammonia. Thanks Bill! Sounds interesting, need to give it a try.
vintagercr Posted December 30, 2015 Posted December 30, 2015 Bill, what do you thin the stain blocker with?
Ramfins59 Posted December 30, 2015 Posted December 30, 2015 Nice job on the Stang Bill. I also am looking forward to the Impala.
MrObsessive Posted December 30, 2015 Author Posted December 30, 2015 Bill, what do you thin the stain blocker with?Ammonia or alcohol will thin it out. I also recommend using an old airbrush to spray it with if you have one. I have a "nice" one that I use for painting bodies------and then there's my old Badger Crescendo that I use to spray the BIN.
MrObsessive Posted December 30, 2015 Author Posted December 30, 2015 Just to show that I've not had any problems with the BIN doing crazy things with color coats------here's the Dodge Viper that was undercoated with BIN, then primer, then color coated Viper Red which was mixed for me by a local paint jobber. Some guys have put primer on first then the BIN, but the BIN will adhere to bare plastic as I've not seen any "pulling away" from the body of the Impala.
MrObsessive Posted December 30, 2015 Author Posted December 30, 2015 (edited) I want to add that the main reason I do this with kits as of late........I don't trust the plastics that the model companies (particularly Revell) use as of late. The plastics have a "soft feel and look" to them that wasn't present years ago. Since I like to use the actual colors of whatever car I'm doing, which can mean the harsher lacquers and acrylic enamels, using BIN IMO is good insurance against those paints crazing the plastic. One could also use Future Floor Wax (Pledge with Future Shine), but then you have to deal with the Future being mighty runny when it comes out your airbrush. This to me is a lot more predictable, and so far has saved me a lot of grief. Edited December 30, 2015 by MrObsessive
slusher Posted December 31, 2015 Posted December 31, 2015 A fine Mustang Bill. Your builds are very detailed and quality builds...
W-409 Posted January 1, 2016 Posted January 1, 2016 That Mustang is a real beauty Bill! Gloss black paint job looks just about perfect to me and I really like that combination of gloss black and red interior. Engine detailing is top notch as always too. Spectacular build, I can't wait to see how that '59 Impala will turn out as I have a real 1960 in the garage.
Modelbuilder Mark Posted January 2, 2016 Posted January 2, 2016 Nice Mustang! Is that the kit glass or did you replace with something else, as the back glass is so clear?I would never have thought of the BIN. May have to check that out, thanks for the info.
MrObsessive Posted January 2, 2016 Author Posted January 2, 2016 Nice Mustang! Is that the kit glass or did you replace with something else, as the back glass is so clear? I would never have thought of the BIN. May have to check that out, thanks for the info. You're welcome Mark! The backlite is clear stencil sheet, which was also intended for the front. The front glass kept popping out repeatedly because I had to reeeallllly flex the body to get the chassis in. In hindsight, if I had put the firewall in place first and not to the chassis, I wouldn't have had to flex the body so much to get everything to fit. But...........I wanted the brake lines from the master cylinder to attach somewhere, and that's the only way I could achieve that. So I ended up using the kit glass for the front as I was tired of fighting with it. It's not too bad visual wise---------I've seen MUCH, MUCH worse glass in some kits. Clear stencil sheet is my go-to choice when it comes to replacing kit glass. Some of the kits' glass is so severely distorted as far as viewing it from the outside, that it's a HUGE turnoff for me. It's one of the reasons I stopped working on the '59 Chevy for so long. I refused to finish it with that terribly distorted front and rear glass. Now that I got a vacuform machine, I made my own on that one and that's another hurdle that's been jumped thankfully.
Brian_R Posted January 3, 2016 Posted January 3, 2016 Bill,A couple of questions about “Clear stencil sheet”.When I put that search into Amazon I got:Grafix Clear Craft Plastic .007 Thickness 12-Inch by 12-Inch, Pack of 25Does this sound like the same stuff?Also, are you saying that you can thermoform this?Any other reasons why this is your favorite? (scratch resistant or just the clarity)Brian
MrObsessive Posted January 3, 2016 Author Posted January 3, 2016 (edited) That sounds like the same stuff. It's paper thin, but just make sure it's the clear type and not the frosted kind. I made a mistake once at a shop and didn't read the label thoroughly as it was prepackaged------I get it here and it's dang frosted! I usually get mine at the local arts and crafts store, and they do sell it in separate sheets with no name. No you can't thermoform this----------it doesn't work.....I tried it! And yes, major clarity is the reason I like using it. It reflects the light and reads just like actual glass. The trouble with it is you can only bend it one way. Certain cars of the late '50's/early '60's (GM's particularly) with their compound curve wraparound windshields, it's impossible to bend the acetate to get the shape you want. One of the major reasons I ended vacuforming the windshield on the '59 Chevy. Edit: I want to add that if you ever want to get into vacuforming, you'll need .020" PETG Vivak. Amazon sells that also in nice big sheets. Edited January 3, 2016 by MrObsessive
Brian_R Posted January 4, 2016 Posted January 4, 2016 Bill,Thanks for the quick reply.I guess I'll try shopping locally first.Brian
mangodart Posted January 4, 2016 Posted January 4, 2016 Only one maybe but what abuild !!!! What color do you think for your Impala ?
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