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Saran wrap marks


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Ok, I used saran wrap and Tamiya tape to wrap a set of doors in order to paint the wing windows with Alclad chrome.  Everything came out good, but now I have all these ghost marks on the Scalefinishes paint job from the saran wrap.  What can i use to remove the marks?  Will they wash out with soap and water, rub out with wax,or what?  

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Cling wraps have some sort of substance on the surface (plasticizer maybe) which gives them the clinginess. Sounds like it affected the paint surface.  If the paint is not completely dry, fuzzy toilet paper can also leave paper fibers adhering to paint.  I use Parafilm to cover larger areas. But if the paint is not fully hardened/cured, any type of mask or clingy covering can leave marks. In my experience Scale Finishes paint never fully hardens (it is dry, but soft) and it is prone to ghosting if not clear coated.  I think that Scale Finishes paint is a 2-part automotive paint sold without hardener.  Unless you get the hardener, the paint will not fully cure.

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As most Scale Finishes is enamel, the paint was likely not fully dried and reacted (as stated above).  Also, if you use a Dehydrator to cure the paint without removing the masking, that could also create a problem.  As stated by Peteski, the paint must be fully dried before any masking or there could be issues

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The doors were painted two weeks prior to wrapping them in saran wrap and spent two hours of that time in a dehydrator.  I thought they were cured but as peteski mentioned the scalefinishes paint does seem soft.  I did not clear coat over the paint, but it had been waxed with Meguiars prior to wrapping in saran wrap.  The doors have been painted three times, once because they were masked with Tamiya tape and put in the dehydrator with the tape still on.  Bad idea!!  I have learned a lot painting those two doors, at least I know what not to do!

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My experience with Meguiars is that it does soften enamels and you need to rewash and let the paint "cure" again before doing anything.  Again, it if smells like paint, it has not cured.  Airbrushing speeds the curing process initially because of thinner coats.  Same with polishing.  I usually wait a couple of days before any masking.

Also, as stated above, I would avoid saran wrap.  I've used parafilm, freezer bag or light touch painter's tape to cover large areas.  Butcher paper would be another alternative.

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Cling wraps have some sort of substance on the surface (plasticizer maybe) which gives them the clinginess. Sounds like it affected the paint surface.  If the paint is not completely dry, fuzzy toilet paper can also leave paper fibers adhering to paint.  I use Parafilm to cover larger areas. But if the paint is not fully hardened/cured, any type of mask or clingy covering can leave marks. In my experience Scale Finishes paint never fully hardens (it is dry, but soft) and it is prone to ghosting if not clear coated.  I think that Scale Finishes paint is a 2-part automotive paint sold without hardener.  Unless you get the hardener, the paint will not fully cure.

"Cling" wraps are nothing more than thin clear vinyl, with a lot of the softener "PVC Monomer" in them to make them as flexible as they are.  Trouble is, that gives Saran and other clinging food wraps the same ability to ruin a painted model surface as the dreaded "PVC Tire Disease".  Sadly, the PVC has pretty much permanently softened the paint wherever it's been in contact with it.

Art

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"Cling" wraps are nothing more than thin clear vinyl, with a lot of the softener "PVC Monomer" in them to make them as flexible as they are.  Trouble is, that gives Saran and other clinging food wraps the same ability to ruin a painted model surface as the dreaded "PVC Tire Disease".  Sadly, the PVC has pretty much permanently softened the paint wherever it's been in contact with it.

Art

Good heavens, what does it do to FOOD wrapped in it? :blink:

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