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Bantam Fuel Altered - New pics 1-7


Codi

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By no means am I trying to hijack Tim's awesome thread but I wanted to show my most recent steering knuckle. It was made from brass rectangular tubing, brass rod for the spindle and stainless steel tubing all soldered together. This still needs a bit of cleaning up but you'll get the idea. Its really strong and sturdy.

As you can see in the last photo, the steering arm was soldered in at an angle to get it away from the tire.

Now back to your regularly scheduled program.

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I have a couple minutes before I have to run but I want to thank you for your contributions.  Whether it's encouragement, tips or information, they're all appreciated.  I machined the spindle knuckles and did a very quick mock-up.  Good thing as I caught the fact that the front end my chassis was about .75mm too low.  I couldn't figure out why the axle height wasn't where it should be based upon my tech drawing that I did. Double checked and sure enough........I was glad to discover the mistake and when I adjusted it, it matched the drawing.  Nothing has been cleaned up or soldered yet.  I'll make some brackets to set the axle at the proper angle and height then I'll start on the shock towers & brackets to get that set. 

Randy & Dave in particular, yeah you saw that.....one of the more time consuming parts of the front end was getting the bends even and correct on the axle..........gotta quite the pile of scrap.  <_<

Thanks for the pics too Brad, that turned out pretty cool.......I was surprised that you soldered the stainless steel tube to the brass as I didn't know it would solder up. I use s/steel tube all the time for setup and securing brass tube as need be because the solder never stuck to it. Any secret to how you did that?  cheers, tim

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Hello Tim !

This is my first post in response to your incredible craftsmanship and skills. I have watched every build you have posted with baited breath waiting for the next update like a kid on Christmas morning. I hope you understand that not making posts of your builds means indifference from people such as me. With so many of the most accomplished builders commenting on your work, there's not a lot to be added from a "greenhorn" such as me. Anyway I wanted to share this with you, but you have most likely seen it as the picture seems to be the one you posted at the beginning of your project.

Thanks for your time,

Jimmy

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/the-story-of-the-hall-brothers-fuel-altered-racer/?sm_id=organic_fb_social_HRN_170322_sf64825500&sf64825500=1

Edited by Jimmy Wilson
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Man Tim, your knuckles look so much better than my hand made ones. As for a secret, I wasn't sure if it would solder together or not so I tried it. I think the secret maybe the liquid flux I was using. When applied with the brush in the cap, it goes into all of the nooks and crannies through capillary action and when the solder is applied to a heated part or parts, it sucks in where the flux is residing. I don't apply the soldering iron directly to the solder, I heat the part(s) with the iron and when it/they get up to temp, the solder melts. Sort of an indirect method.

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Jimmy, thanks for your post.  I truly like the fact that you like what you see and have been following along.  Hope you like the rest of the build.  btw, I have a bunch of pics of the Tramp........just a great car for inspiration as I move along with it.  My car wasn't intended to be a clone of it, just was one that I liked just about everything about when I switched this to an altered. 

Thanks Brad, I'll have to try that to see how it might turn out for me. 

Appreciated Art...when will I get to see your brass short track thread again?  

Chris, how are things sir?  Anything I can do to encourage you on the Vega?  Hope you get some bench time soon!

Brad/Joe..........that's actually something else I've tried, called "dip-it"  Think I got it at micro-mark or somewhere.  It's a liquid silicone for tools that you just dip and let it dry.  Lasts pretty long too.  I've used shrink tube too but this stuff wears a long time and has a softer "feel" to it.      Different colors available, not sure why I picked white, maybe so I could see stuff?  

 

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Tim... thanks for letting us know about that "Dip-it" Stull from Microarka. I May have to give it a try and buy some. Thanks for the encouragement... as of late I keep continuing on having set backs on the F/C when I am trying to get it done for DSC which its really looking like I am not going to make it and it's Disappointing. I had something happen 2 days ago and have had no motivation to get to the bench since then.

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I may just have to get some "Dip-It" myself. I've seen stuff like that at one of the home centers or hardware stores for dipping your tool handles in so they get a rubberized coating on the handle.

BTW - the name of my flux is "Lucky Bob's" and I get it at HobbyTown which is now closed on this side of town.

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Lookin awesome Codi !!!! Im glad you caught that .75mm issue. To the average person thats sounds like nothing but compared to 1:1, thats almost 3/4"!

Question: On the upper front right chassis rail, you have what looks like a adjustment plate with 6 holes.......whats that for?

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Chris, sent you a PM. 

Brad, that's the stuff, works pretty slick and is durable as mentioned.

John, the bracket you see is for the twin remote oil filter system.  I drilled the top just for giggles with a bunch of tiny holes too.  btw, I adjusted this morning the chassis height and ended up adding just .60mm. Made an important difference.  Took a couple pics of what the final stance will look like and when I compare it to my favorite, the Tramp altered, it's oh so close.  Cheers!

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That's pretty cool Brad.  I didn't have the dimensions of their car Dave but I'm pleased that it's pretty close to it, dumb luck I guess.    I'm going to use one your methods Dave for setting up the axle & caster angle........then I can get onto the rest of the pieces.  I only got the spindles soldered up yesterday so no real progress to share but I was happy to see how straight & strong they turned out to be.  cheers, tim

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I'm going to use one your methods Dave for setting up the axle & caster angle........then I can get onto the rest of the pieces.  I only got the spindles soldered up yesterday so no real progress to share but I was happy to see how straight & strong they turned out to be.  cheers, tim

I would be interested in hearing about Dave's set up for the axle and caster angle, possibly a diagram? How about a picture or two of your soldered up spindles too?

I know I ask alot but us mere mortals want to see and learn from the masters.

Edited by gasser59
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Spring Break & the kids are home....not much bench time this week I'm afraid.  I did make another drop axle, original was a 4" the new is 6".  I'll post pics of the simple set-up that I'm "borrowing" from Dave later this week.  Spindles too Brad.  

I admit this set-up has the potential to look pretty sweet if I can pull it off, but there's a bunch of stuff crammed in a tiny space.  Would have been easier to do a torsion bar set-up, but I really want to replicate this one if possible. 

Appreciate your kind comments.  Cheers!

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Little bench time today so I made the jig to secure the front axle.  I machined twin posts with caster set at 12 degrees with a hole drilled in the center for a piece of .9mm stainless steel tube that was super glued into the top.  I soldered them to a thin strip of brass and the axle slips on and off as needed. I'll check the alignment next and then super glue the jig to the steel table until the front suspension is completed.  I borrowed the idea from Dave (comp1839) of the angled posts and in the future I'll use a wood base like Dave as it would just be easier that way.  I'll go after the tie rod & panhard bar next & move on from there.  cheers, tim

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Thank you Tim!  I love the fact that you choose to make your jigs as polished and what you are making.  Am I correct in assuming that you used a mill to set the 12 degree caster and drilled the holes?  Getting everything square and then setting it 12 degrees off and keeping it all aligned  had to be a challenge. I made a drop axle several years ago and just cheated and made it all plumb and square.  It was just easier to align it. 

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